Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Well, at last we got the anticipated three day NO-RAIN forecast so I decided to do the windowectomy so long desired, this is the stbd forward main cabin window (port) which resembled Niagara falls during the rainy season here in SW FL. All came out just fine. I examined the patient and reviewed the various threads of assistance and advice. Gradually it was borne in to me that there appear to be only TWO condiderations (1) Can I seal the window (plexiglass) into the outer frame (2) can I seal the frame to the cabintop. I chose (due to time and FIERCE heat, 88-90 plus near 100 humidity to remove all goop from outer frame, NOT disassemble entire clam aluminum frame but make a real good clear channel on outside of plexiglass window and clear the frame itself, and caulk that with LIFESEAL, a new product to me, supposed to be good for use with plexiglass/lexan/polycarbonates. This part (phase one) is now done, more messy than I would like, but thorough. In New England they say "Not much fer pretty, but hell fer staout". Tomorrow I plan to use the recommended BUTYL car/RV putty, comes in a roll, to attach the frame to the fiberglass hull side, to be drawn in by the itsy-bitsy machine screws on the inside. Then we will discover, during the Florida Monsoon season, due any minute, whether this stuff works as advertised. A report will ensue for you prospective window sturgeons, god bless, ron srsk #2343 Orion
I, too, have removed some windows. I removed both forward main cabin windows that were leaking. Additionally, one of these windows was replaced by the PO with brown Lexan instead tinted tempered glass, so I've ordered a replacement from the local glass shop(Hopefully it'll be in this week).
Anyway, you mentioned you are using BUTYL car/RV putty for mounting the frames to the boat. I'm not sure, but I think the PO used this stuff to mount the windows. Right now I'm trying to remove this gray goo that has the consistency and tenacity of day-old gum that's stuck under a table at the diner! <img src=icon_smile_dead.gif border=0 align=middle> (I swear it's just like removing gum from your shoe). Hopefully, when the job is done I'll have less leaks.
As a side note, this window job resulted in me getting new carpeting. How, you ask? Well, last week I removed the windows and covered the cabintop with a tarp to keep out the weather. Well, we had a couple of days of good rain last week, and apparently my blue tarp caved in through one of the windows and filled with water like a balloon. It just so happens that there was also a hole in the tarp/water balloon that pee'd rainwater into the cabin. So instead of a tarp I had a funnel. Anyway, when the Admiral and I went to the boat a few days later and opened it up, we were greated by a very musty odor wafting up from below and an inch or two of water on the cabin floor. <img src=icon_smile_dissapprove.gif border=0 align=middle> As we removed the soaking and dank carpeting, the Admiral say, "Instead of cleaning this, why don't you just go out and buy new carpet", to which I replied, "Uhhh...Okay!". <img src=icon_smile_tongue.gif border=0 align=middle>
I personally can't afford this alternative, but if you REALLY get fed up with the windows, there is a company in canada named bomon (www.bomon.com) that makes custom replacement windows made similar but better than the originals for roughly $220 each. I guess if you REALLY love your C25 and plan to never have to go through leaks again, this would be the best, most OEM/Improved retrofit. The company called cruising concepts (www.cruisingconcepts.com) makes a really ugly plexi exterior "modern" retrofit, but I think the boat's value will go down with this fix. I have my port galley portlight leaking now (I helped a friend with his C30 using the Catalina direct glazing material adn his leaks were all on the port side as well, must be a manufacturing thing as another C25 in my marina is having the same window leak as I) and tried creeping crack cure from westmarine but still having a little water in the interior 1/4" channel after a few days rain, so I'm sure I'll join your ranks in removing and refitting soon. Keep us informed if you find something that works.
We just did our windows and are pleased to announce no leaks. We had done them in the past, but for some reason never realized it was the window seal not the frame that was leaking.
We ordered new sizing from catalina direct. Caulk the window into the sizing - (don't let them sell you the caulk, its nothing special,just life seal clear). Caulked that into the frame and caulked the frame into the boat.
The window sizing is relatively inexpensive at Catalina direct as well.
Well, the job is done on the one window. I used, as mentioned, lifeseal between glass and frame, made up a sort of puttying tool and masked the frame, squirted the stuff into the cavity between glass and frame, it had been WELL cleaned. On one side I got a nice bead, looked like a pro job when done, on other side I tried to "improve" my work and made a mess, but still thoroughly sealed. Let that set up overnite, then to boat today for replacement of frame into cabinside. The putty I got was from NAPA autoparts, called "glass setting butyl tape", about 5/16" in dia., comes in a roll with each coil separated from the next by a shiny tape, non-stick. I laid the frame face down and placed the tape about in the middle of the flange, as best I could. Then took a long piece of the separating tape, laid it on the butyl snake, and pressed hard with a 1" putty knife, smoothing out the snake and trying to get an even result. Then we placed the frame in the window and lightly attached the inner screws on the trim frame. I now had a helper. He pushed on the outside of the frame with a piece of 2 X 2 lait alongways, I snugged some on the inner screws. This did NOT work, the butyl was still providing too much space between framw and cabinside. We changed places. I took the 2 X 2, Turned it long way on, put it against a flotation cushion on my chest, and leaned as hard as I could against the frame flange just at each spot he was snugging a screw inside,whilst pulling against the handrail, moving all the way around the frame. This worked, we got a pretty tight fit and a nice even bead of butyl all around the outside. If the damn thing leaks now, there will be a viking funeral. We repaired to the bar for a cool one. Heating the butyl is no problem is SW FL; heating the butyl applier IS, I thought I would cash in from heat stroke. The actual job is not bad once you get going, I spent a lot more time cleaning the old PO's goop from things than the actual recaulk and insertion took, would do it again anytime (but not tomorrow) Fair winds, ron srsk Orion #2343
I have had it with the existing aluminum framed windows in my 1979 Catalina 25. Oh, and they are really ugly too. I want to update the exterior look.
I would like to use the kit made by Cruising Concepts, but first it's quite costly, and I'm not sure which of their kits to get. Do I want the thru bolted kit, or the other? Second, I'm not sure their design will give me the racey look I'm after.
By chance, I passed this guy on the road that had a custom window and hatch company. I stopped him, and he'll do the whole thing the way I like, with Lexan or acrylic for $400-$500.
That's what I'll do as soon as I have 5 extra boat units. I'll keep all posted...
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.