Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I wanted to share an excellent product with you all. I have a 10 hp Evinrude on my Catalina that is controlled with a remote station for the gear shifter and the throttle. The remote is inside the port lazarette. The outboard also has an alternator that provides a small amount of charging and an electric starter. Up to this point I have used a trolling motor plug to connect the outboard to the boat.
I mounted the plug socket on the transom just above the motor bracket. This worked great, <b>twice</b>. After that it never made a good connection and despite all of my “tricks” I could never get it to make a good connection. I would have to hold it and wiggle it around any time I wanted to crank the engine with the electric starter.
Quite by accident I found a Marinco brand trolling motor connector. It is model 12VCP and costs about 35 dollars retail. It is simply fantastic. I am amazed by the thought that went into the design of this product.
<ul> <li>It has a twist locking connection that won’t vibrate loose. </li><li>O rings seal the connection. </li> <li>It accepts up to 8 gauge wire with screw locking wire clamps. </li> <li>It handles 2 or 3 wire systems, 12, 24, or 36 volts. </li> <li>Speed mount nut for the socket makes mounting in those cramped spots easier. </li> </ul>
All in all this is a quality product. If you are in need of this type of product, this is the one!
Clif Thompson Treasurer C-25/250 National Association. svMoxie '81 25 sk
which the wires from the motor fit perfectly through. Inside the sail locker we installed two of these post terminals (see below) with wing nuts. They connect the wires from the motor to the battery selector (positive) and to the battery (negative) <img src="http://www.bluesea.com/Products/small_images/2003.jpg" border=0>
Not including the cabling the entire project cost about 25 dollars. If we ever have to pull it, it will take 2 seconds..
Are your batteries on the same side of your boat as the outboard? Mine are on opposite sides, but I never thought of pulling the wires to the batteries like that. I still like the idea of a plug on the hull.
A connector on the transom might be OK in fresh water, but I would expect it to do the same thing in salt water that the connector on our first Honda had done when we bought the boat--that is, corrode away to nothing. An O-ring will help a little, but no more than the boot that supposedly protected the Honda connector. External connections are suspect, and in salt water they're purely temporary.
I'm sure that's why Honda went with an internally hard-wired cable, and it's also why I installed studs just like Duane's at the rear of the quarterberth, with a boot covering a hole through the transom for the cable. From there, you can go anywhere... I ran a cable from the studs to a battery switch on the port side of the companionway and on to the battery under the starboard settee. Simple, sheltered, and out of reach to the general public.
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT
I just purchased the Marinco receptacle recommended by Clif and was going to install it this weekend. I have an 8 hp electric start Honda. I wanted to be able to remove the motor easily when I trailer. I thought that I may coat the plug ends with dielectric grease to cut down on corrosion. What do you think.
Frank: By my recollection, there's a lot of salt water in Tennessee... You'll probably be OK. But the grease is a good idea if the connector is out in the weather. I'd unplug and replug it occasionally, adding a little grease as needed.
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT
I am in a mix of fresh and salt water, coastal NC, and what I have done is this: <ul> <li>I sprayed the inside of the flexible cap with white lithium grease and more on the outside where the wires come through the cap.</li> <li>I sprayed the connnections with moisture excluding lubricant. (I have CRC's brand but I can't seem to find it anymore. WD40 works but not as well.)</li> <li>I use silicon grease on the O rings that seal the connector. (Dive shops have tubes of this stuff)</li> </ul>
I will service this connection with new silicon grease and the CRC spray probably monthly. The ease of removal and short cable length make this a worthwhile investment of maintenance time for me. I'll try to remember to post a report at the end of the season.
Clif Thompson Treasurer C-25/250 National Association. svMoxie '81 25 sk
From what I understand about galvanic corrosion, the electrical connector and the copper cables connected to it are vulnerable to galvanic corrosion even though they are not underwater themselves.
The electrical wiring that is connected to the outboard, which is submerged in saltwater, is in the metallic chain and as electrolysis occurs throughout the entire chain, the least noble metal(preferably zinc) will be sacrificed. So if you do not have a sacrificial zinc attached to your outboard something in the chain eventually has got to go. Galvanic corrosion occurs by the reaction of dissimlar metals that are connected together(copper wire-to-zinc plated steel connectors, car battery terminals,...etc) and are accelerated by submersion in saltwater. Remember, metals do not have to be in contact with water to be subject to galvanic corrosion, only that they be dissimilar.
So grease may keep environmental corrosion from happening, but it will not stop galvanic corrosion since that is happening within the metal itself.
Re: galvanic corrosion... Fortunately, the connectors we're worrying about are brass on the male side and brass on the female side. Attachced to the brass connectors are copper conductors--not very far away on the nobility scale. The rest could be an issue if you leave the engine down in salt water day and night, but a few sailors in our club, with lower units permanently submersed from within covered lazarettes, don't seem to have problems. Maybe the elecrical system is isolated from the lower unit--I don't know...
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.