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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Has anyone replaced the molding in the windows? I have a '83 Cat. 25 TR/SK. I was wondering if I also needed to replace vinyl glazing channel also?
We replace the molding on our windows two years ago - they still leaked. This past spring we redid the glazing channel and are ecstatic to report that the windows are bone dry after even the heaviest storm.
Mike & Jim - after you have removed the entire window, the two halves of the aluminum frame are held together by 2 small screws and a tiny plate in the center of each "end". By removing these you can separate the frame and pull out the glass. The glass edge is wrapped with a gasket type thingy that is U-shaped. If you want a permanent (sic!) non-leaking window, this gasket needs to be replaced. Catalina Direct sell it, either as enough for all 6 windows or by the foot. They will absolutely insist upon the type of adhesive to use (they also sell it!). You need to remove every scrap of old adhesive from hull, frame and glass. Then carefully squeeze the adhesive into the new vinyl channel, making sure that there are no gaps. Carefully slide the glass into the channel and wrap the gasket all around, taking extra care with the corners. Any excess adhesive can be cleaned off the glass with acetone. Then replace the two halves of the aluminum frame and re-screw. The whole assembly can now be reinserted into the hull using lots of adhesive (you really need another pair of hands to do this well). Insert and tighten the inner screws and then replace the other rubber gasket (which is really only cosmetic). It helps if you draw a pencil line around the window on the outside of the hull for easier alignment when it's reinserted. After the adhesive cures, trim off the excess and bingo - a dry window! <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle><img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle> Derek - been there, done that!
OK, I can just visualize a logo for cosmic muffin, kind a reminds me of Hitchhikers guide to the univerese. You are sailing the stars right on past the golden hind<img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle> Just where is Douglas Adams when the world needs him?
Derek outlines the PROPER way to deal with the windows. For a quick and --well, not dirty, exactly, more like gooey--way, search "windows tra la continued" of a couple weeks ago, where I describe a way that does not include a full disassembly, but DOES require removal of the window. Some folks have tried Permatex flowable silicone auto windshield sealer, with good results. So far I have no leaks, but the real Fla rainy season is approaching, fair winds, ron srsk 1981 SW FL
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>what is the vinyl glazing channel? I have the moulding and am planning to get to work on the leaky windows.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Jim - the following link will take you to Catalina Directs Glazing. It is essentially the piece of rubber that sits between the window and the frame.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Thanks Duane, Was it difficult to do. It's like a downpour with my window now.
Not overly difficult... The DCO (Dumb Current Owners) used 5200 last time. It took a little work getting the windows out. Once they are out you will need to clean all the old caulk off both the windows and the openings. Dissassemble the windows by removing the two small screws on the side that hold a small little piece of aluminium in place. Remove all the old glazing and clean the window.
The next step is the tough part. Apply a clear silicone based caulk (don't let catalina direct sucker you into buying their product its just the silicone based (not polysulfide) life caulk product. I can't think of the exact name) liberally to the groove on the glazing and also to the groove on the frame where the window sits. Cut your rubber about 1" (not exact) shorter than what you will need, because you will have stretch. Apply the glazing to the window (don't be afraid to be messy, you can clean up excess with a razor blad.)
We found it best to make your seam on a vertical surface. Now with the admirals assistance, slide the window into the channel on the fram. Its a bit difficult, but make sure the glazing is stretched tight around the window. Next you put the other side on. Our findings indicate the goupier (is that a word) you have the glazing and the channel the better to get the frame back in place. It will take a try or two on the first one, but once you are done you'll have the hang of it for the remaining 5.
We then reisstalled the window with 5200...(the next owner can take them out, we wanted to be absolutely sure they were in.) He can call us the DPO's at that time.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> They will absolutely insist upon the type of adhesive to use (they also sell it!). Derek - been there, done that!<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Screwem...they will send you a 14 dollar tube of boat life clear silicone caulk. non polysulfide kind.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.