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<font size=2><font face='Comic Sans MS'> I need to replace the starboard [url="http://www.catalinadirect.com/stanchions/stanchion%20trad%20base.html"]stanchion[/url] on Peregrine. I haven’t done this before and would like some tips like which sealer to use. The current one does not leak. Any suggestions would be helpful. Thanks
Underlined words are a <font color=red> <font size=3> HOT </font id=red> </font id=size3> link. Click on the “Peregrine” icon. </font id=size2> </font id='Comic Sans MS'>
I agree with Bill, have bedded a few with Boatlife, good results. Also have used Sikaflex, and 3M 4200, all work well, good luck, do NOT use 5200 (a very strong adhesive) Ron srsk #2343 Orion 1981 SW FL
I'd agree with Bill. As per Ron's mention of Sikaflex...seems to me that Sikaflex was one brand not liked when I worked for a boatyard for awhile. I have not used it, but I could swear that that the rap was that it was nearly as adhesive and permanent as 5200. Won't swear to the previous being totally accurate, but Boatlife is a pretty safe bet.
Used all - 4200, 5200 and boat life for similar applications.
No leaks and no problems with any. 5200 wasn't as difficult to remove as suggested by this forum however, I would probably go with the boatlife in the future.
<font size=2><font face='Comic Sans MS'> Thanks all. If the deck is sound does anyone think the I need to fill the hole with epoxy and then redrill it? It’s a step I’d like to avoid. Also I heard I should tighten the bolts part of the way let the sealer dry then tighten them the rest of the way so the sealer (boatlife) doesn’t get squeezed out. Any thoughts? </font id=size2> </font id='Comic Sans MS'>
When I add anything to the deck or rebed something, I always drill oversize and epoxy. If the temps are good it'll set up in a few hours maybe faster. Something about an ounce of prevention... or some such.
Tightening partially until cured is the only way to go. If you tighten it all the way, you've just squeezed all the sealer out.
Somewhere I read about someone cutting small pieces from a wide rubber band and putting four of them down amidst all the goo near the corners. Then you can tighten it down (not too hard 'til it sets) and have a uniform "gasket" thickness.
It may have been my surveyor who suggested that when rebedding a stanchion, you shouldn't bed the entire base--just around the bolts. Water will enter the stanchion at the holes for the lifelines, and should be able to drain out. The tiny gap that is created between the base and the deck by the bedding "gasket" at each bolt should be sufficient.
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 #5032 "Passage" SR/FK/Dinette/Honda in SW CT
My mention of Sikaflex is based on the recommendation of Catalina Direct in their video, I used it once, thought it was OK, but didnt have to remove it, so who knows??? It's expensive and hard to find as I recall, probably unnecessary. A tip I have heard and read and used is to very lightly chamfer or countersink holes so the caulk will have more chance to do its thing under the fitting. Have sometimes taken the shortcut of just epoxying the existing hole, if dry, rather than doing the proper thing of drilling out, filling, redrilling, etc...I sometimes find the number of passes to do the perfect job may extend the job by a week or more, not realistic on some occasions, color me slipshod. God bless, ron srsk Orion SW FL
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.