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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Last fall I purchased a SK/SR. The boom has no hardware for the outhaul...no cleat, no blocks, nothing. Can anyone please let me know how the outhaul should be setup? There is an available eye on the end of the boom that a line could be run through with a stopper knot. From there through the clew...but how to secure from that point?
You didn't mention what year your boat is, and I don't know if that makes a difference as to how the stock outhaul is set up. On my 1979 C-25, the stock outhaul was so ... basic, that I didn't bother to use it as designed.
In my opinion, an outhaul needs considerably more than 1:1 purchase to be useful. Something quick and dirty would be to rig a multi-part purchase using a length of light line (maybe 1/8" or even 3/16") tied in a trucker's hitch between the clew and the aft boom end fitting. I think that gives you nominally about a 4:1 purchase, but with considerable friction. That wouldn't be easily adjustable as you sailed, but would produce some foot tension using the parts you now have (plus some light line). That's what I did while a more elaborate fix was slowly fighting its way to the top of the To-Do list.
My current outhaul uses an 8:1 internal ball bearing wire-to-rope cascade system with a stainless steel outhaul car, and a pivoting camcleat hanging from the boom near the vang bale.
I rigged an outhaul using a couple double sheeve blocks and a small cleat. I used a deep throat shackle to attach one block to the clew and a shorter one at the end of the boom through the hole in the casting that you mentioned. I put the the cleaton the side of the boom just forward of the point where the casting terminates inside the boom. I drilled and tapped holes for the mounting screws used anti-seize grease to avoid corrosion.
My 4:1 outhaul is the same as is illustrated in the CD handbook(pg 4.19) with the exception of the turning block at the end of the boom(I have a cleat instead). The outhaul starts at an eyestrap on the starboard side end of the boom. From there it goes to a double block on the main clew, then to a single block at the end of the boom, back to the double block at the clew, and finally to a cleat on the portside end of the boom.
I added one last year when I converted the main to loose-footed. Mine is like Don's, but instead of the double block, I used two single blocks side-by-side attached to the clew (not as clean, but still functional). Also, there's a cheek block attached to the port side of the boom where Don's cleat is, and the small cleat is located about mid-boom so it's easier to adjust when the boom is out on a run. The eye strap and cheek block were previously attached to the boom. The three blocks with shackles, small cleat, fasteners and line were procured from the miscellaneous spare sparts found in the bottom of a drawer (thus zero cost).
I installed my outhaul <i>inside</i> the boom - using wire hardware from the clew, into the aft end of the boom, converting to dacron inside the boom, exiting the bottom of the boom ~2' aft of the goose neck. The appendices in the Harken catalog have great drawings for all kinds of sailboat rigging. Good luck.
Thanks for the ideas everyone. I rigged a simple 4:1 outhaul from Harken's website using a couple of blocks and a small cleat on the starboard sie of the boom.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.