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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Sheets and Blocks...

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/18/2003 : 10:13:25

I'm going to replace the well-worn sheets and the mainsail control blocks on my C25.

Any advice on size/length/brand/spec of main/jib sheets is greatly appreciated.

As far as the mainsheet control blocks... stay with the stock arrangement or is there any hot setup using some different components?

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 07/18/2003 : 13:19:09

'ClamBeach',

Re: "Any advice on size/length/brand/spec of main/jib sheets is greatly appreciated."

I use 3/8" Dacron double-braid for all my sheets and halyards. I also have a pair of 5/16" Dacron double-braid light air genoa sheets. Either diameter is plenty strong enough. I prefer the "hand" of the 3/8". There's also the fuzzy cover option -- paying extra for new rope that looks like it's worn out.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

The two brands I'm familiar with are New England Ropes, sold be West Marine, and Sampson Cordage, sold be Defender. I think both are top notch cordage. I seem to recall Sampson being significantly less expensive. Also, if you get into color coding every line, you can mix the two brands for even more color combinations.

As for length, I bought the stock lengths spec'ed in the owners manual. It was the first day that I owned my C-25, and I didn't realize at the time that the suggested mainsheet length seems to allow for using the mainsheet tackle as part of raising and lowering the mast. I ended up with way too much mainsheet under foot in the cockpit. The way I would go about determining mainsheet length is to measure the distance between the blocks with the boom out to the shrouds, multiply by either 3 or 4 depending on your chosen mainsheet ratio, and then add maybe 10' for a tail that you can pull on from anywhere in the cockpit.

For genoa sheet lengths, there's some industry-wide rule of thumb, like 1.5 x L.O.D., that works too. It's in the West Marine catalog.

Re: "As far as the mainsheet control blocks ... any hot setup using some different components?"

I replaced my still-working mainsheet tackle with Harken Hexaratchet little fiddle blocks(#s 054 & 060). I got the set with the becket that allows up to 4:1 ratio. I rigged it 3:1, but if I ever decide that I'd like 4:1, it would only take a few minutes to make the change. This option does add about 10' of line to the spagetti nest in the cockpit when used at 3:1. The Harken blocks feel so good to use that you'll get over the sting of the price in no time.

I also rebuilt my worn out traveler car with ball bearing blocks. Some day I'd like to upgrade the traveler cam cleats too.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 07/19/2003 : 10:15:33

Leon, does that Hexaratchet need a cam or does the design of the block make the cam cleat unnecessary ?

(I have never used one)

The way I understand them, they will 'set' and hold the line, and you release them by giving the line a pull... they then free spool until you tighten the line again...

Am I understanding their operation correctly ? If so, it seems like it would be a pretty cool way to go.

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 07/19/2003 : 13:09:50

'ClamBeach'

Re: "... does that Hexaratchet need a cam or does the design of the block make the cam cleat unnecessary?"

"Hexaratchet" is Harken's name for their ratching blocks. They still need a cam cleat (included with the model number I mentioned).
Obviously, the sheeve turns freely when you're sheeting in but not when you're letting the sheet out. The groove has several (six?) smooth edged facets which provide a consistant amount of friction without undue wear on the line. There is an on/off selector for the ratchet. In the 'off' position, the block spins freely in both directions for use in light air.

The big advantage of ratcheting blocks is in allowing you to resist a large load on the sheet with a small amount of tension on the tail. This is particularly important when easing a heavily loaded mainsheet. It greatly reduces the tendancy to get rope burns, or get your fingers sucked into the cam cleat.

As for brand names, I suffer from a semi-blind loyalty to Harken for small boat running rigging hardware. There are now some very competitive products on the market. Check out Ronstan, for instance. Lewmar looks interesting too. I'm not impressed with Schaefer blocks and cleats.

Re: "The way I understand them, they will 'set' and hold the line, and you release them by giving the line a pull ... they then free spool until you tighten the line again ..."

That sounds more like an automatic ratchet, such as Ronstan's "Smart-Ratchet" (there are others as well). I don't think any of the ratchet blocks I've seen are a substitute for a positive cleat on any boat larger than a Laser.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 07/19/2003 : 16:23:58

Leon, thanks again for the Hexaratchet explanation...
Pretty clever stuff.

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

Edited by - on

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