Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
After a night of anchoring out in a swell, it appears as though the "clunk" in my swing keel is getting worse. Two years ago I lowered the keel to check the pivot pin. At that time, the pin was fine but I observed the bore hole through the iron keel to be somewhat larger than the o.d. of the pivot pin.
Does anyone have experience with a fix for this? Do I have a sleeve made for the pin and hog out the keel to match the o.d. of this new sleeve? Is there a standard fix (other than retrofitting a wing keel). I would appreciate any advice on this issue.
There is also a kit that can be purchased to help this problem. It also includes a couple of teflon washers that go on each side of the pin to help reduce sideways movement of the keel. I found on my old swinger if I put some tention on the cable and made sure the down lock was tight it helped stop the clunk. Another way to attack the problem is to look at why the boat is rocking in the first place. Floper stoper or a device designed to reduce wake effect will help. Pole out the boom and secure the dinghy to its outer arm. Or attach one of those anti rocking devices.
Re: "<i>... the bore hole through the iron keel ... somewhat larger than the O.D. of the pivot pin. Does anyone have experience with a fix for this? Do I have a sleeve made for the pin and hog out the keel to match the O.D. of this new sleeve? Is there a standard fix ...</i>"
On my 1979 C-25, the pivot hole in the keel was worn into an hourglass shape, maybe 2" diameter at its worst. I had the hole bored to 1-1/2" I.D., then sandblasted and ground away any iron oxide remaining in the still tapered hole. I then installed a bronze bushing, 1.0"I.D. x 1.5"O.D. x maybe 3/8" longer than the thickness of the keel. Before installing the bushing, I had the inside machined to about 0.030" clearance on a new bronze pivot pin. After roughing up the outside of the bushing, I cast it in place with WEST epoxy reinforced with milled fiberglass and powdered metal. I built an alignment jig to hold the bushing while the epoxy cured. When the keel was installed, it was within 1/4" of true at a distance of 7 feet from the pivot. There was, and is, no detectable side-to-side movement or "clunk" under any conditions.
After two years of swing keel abuse in shallow salt water, I hauled it out and inspected it. There was no sign of any damage to the pin, bushing, or the surounding epoxy. I am extremely satisfied with this repair method.
On Buzz I replaced the keel pin and found the hole to be nearly perfect so no reason for a bushing but I also had nearly a 1/2 inch of play on each side between the keel and the mounting casting. I had noticeable keel clunk whenever I changed tacks. To fix this I installed the retrofit keel casting from CD (one boat unit) Not as easy a fix as you would presume. In addition to removing the old casting you have to have the new casting milled down to the width needed for your keel. In my case I had 5/32 inch taken off each piece) It seems that there was considerable variance with the keels as with many other parts of our boats. I also epoxied the spacers from the "keel centering kit" (1/3 boat unit) to the forward part of the keel. In practice the new casting doesn't allow the keel to move side to side and the centering kit allows nearly zero movement of the top portion of the keel. No more clunk which I think will also prevent wear on the pin.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.