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Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Downwind performance

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Bruce Baker
Captain

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USA
402 Posts

Initially Posted - 07/31/2003 : 14:11:05

Last Tuesday night, my swinger, my crew, and I tore up the PHRF fleet upwind only to get passed downwind. I sail in the non-spinnaker fleet, so we sail wing-and-wing downwind. I know that it's faster to sail about 30 degrees off the wind with a spinnaker, but everything I've seen says to sail down the rhumb line wing-and-wing. Does anybody have a different view, and if so, which side should the main be on?

Other standard adjustments might be to tighten the vang (doesn't seem to do much) let out the outhaul (my system is not very user-friendly) or release the back stay (forgetaboutit). Anything else?

By the way, I put two zincs on the keel that were a bit larger than standard (about 4 inches in diameter vs. 3 inches standard) and I wonder if that is a big part of my problem. Speaking of keel issues, the front of my keel is maybe 5 inches across and slightly round. Does keel fairing mean adding something pointed to the front of the keel?

Bruce Baker
Falls Church, VA
"Yee Ha" 3573
'83SR/SK

Edited by - on

Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5902 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2003 : 15:21:11

Bruce, congratulations on your success on the windward leg. I believe that sailing approximately dead downwind, wing-and-wing, is generally the fastest course when sailing non-spinnaker. When you do that, the mainsail should be on whatever side takes the boat in the most advantageous direction.

The key to sailing downwind is to find the fastest route to the finish line. Sometimes that means taking the rhumb line to the finish, and sometimes that means taking a longer route. The general rule of thumb is that you should steer downwind in the wind puffs, and broad reach in the lulls.

Suppose, for example, the rhumb line course to the finish line is a broad reach. Most of the boats will probably sail the rhumb line on a slow, broad reach. They will sail the entire downwind leg of the course on a slow broad reach.

If you are sailing in a strong wind puff, and you steer the boat approximately dead downwind, then you will sail diagonally across the lake and the boat will travel as far downwind as possible, in the shortest possible amount of time. Keep in mind that, if the wind is strong enough, a sailboat is even capable of exceeding hull speed on a downwind course. The farther downwind you are able to go, the closer the boat's next course will be to the wind, when you make your turn to reach for the mark. If you can get far enough downwind so that your next course to the mark will be a beam reach, then, you will be able to travel toward the mark at a higher speed than your competitors, who are still sailing down the rhumb line on a slower broad reach.

If we racers encounter a windshift while beating to windward, we all know that we should tack onto the course that takes us closer to the mark, but most racers don't realize that the same principle applies when sailing downwind. If you encounter a windshift while running downwind, you should "tack downwind" onto the course that takes you closer to the mark. (They call it "tacking downwind," even though you are really gybing the sails in most circumstances.)

Regardless of the course that you are taking to the finish line, you should be constantly scanning the water around you, in every direction, to see wind puffs coming down the lake, and then steer the boat into the leading edge of the stronger wind puffs.

Good luck!

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

Edited by - on

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 07/31/2003 : 18:32:20

Hi Bruce,

Steve gave great advice regarding sailing the downwind leg. I concur with his thoughts completely.

Sail shape downwind is just as important as sail shape upwind. Here are ten specific things that will help your downwind performance:
1. Let the traveler down all the way to leeward.
2. Snug the vang - this adjustment is more important as the wind builds.
3. Ease the main clew outhaul - if your outhaul isn't easy to adjust, fix it so that it is easy. This is a very important gear shifting option.
4. Ease the cunningham or mainsail downhaul.
5. Ease the adjustable backstay pulley - if yours is fixed, don't worry about this one.
6. Ease the jib halyard a bit.
7. Move the jib lead blocks forward 3 to 6 adjustment holes on the "T-track" - or rig a barberhauler to move the sheet lead forward.
8. For wing 'n wing, use a whisker pole. I like a topping lift for the whisker pole to help with jib sail shape. Top the outboard end up for rounder, more powerful shape.
9. Have your crew move forward to positions on the cabin top near the mast or even a bit further forward. Make sure that the crew sits still.
10. Steer with a tiller extension, and sit as far forward in the cockpit as you can.

Well, there you are Bruce. Ten easy adjustments that will help with your downwind speed.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

BTW: Figure out how your boat speed differentiates between running and broad reaching. Make a chart that shows the relative difference at different wind velocities. At some point, it will be much to your advantage to broad reach and play the puffs downwind. Figure out where that point is.........believe me, most of the competition hasn't done this yet.

It is about 45% farther distance to broad reach than to run. So, you only need to be about 50% faster on the reach to more than make up the difference in distance. 2 kt run/3 kt reach.... and so on. PLUS, if you play the puffs like Steve descibes, the differential between the two speed potentials is even closer in favor of reaching.

Edited by - on

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Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.