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Reefing / Leaking Windows

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JoergK
Navigator

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USA
140 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/11/2003 : 17:20:12

Due to my relative newness I need to ask some questions which may sound strange to more experienced sailors. I accumulate knowledge as time progresses, by doing things as they come up, but sometimes it is better to ask before starting to guess and improvise.
1) my windows leak badly. Where can I find a step-by-step procedure to fix this ("re-bed" them?). What materials do I need?
2) I heard so much about "single line reefing". How is this set up? Could this be configured so that I can reef from the cockpit?

Joerg
86C25 SR-SK Second Wind

Edited by - on

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2003 : 19:59:39

Hi Joerg,

Since you have an '86, your windows should be the newer style without the aluminum frames. It's pretty easy to remove the windows, clean the old bedding compound and reseal the window with polysulfide calk.

Setting up single line reefing systems is frequently done so that you can reef from the cockpit instead of "tapdancing" around on the cabin top when you have to reef. The setup starting from the aft end of the boom goes like this: Secure your 1/4" reef line to the stainless steel eyestrap on the portside of the boom (nearly under the leach reef point). Run the line through the leach reef point and then through a cheek block that is on the starboard side of the boom approx opposite of the eyestrap. The line is now rove forward on the starboard side of the boom to a forward cheek block which has been secured to the boom just aft of the gooseneck casting. Run the line up the sail and through the luff reef point, then back down the mast. On Snickerdoodle, the line is then rove through a swivel block and cam cleat that has been secured near the foot of the mast. Leave the bitter end long enough so that you can tie it to the hatch handle - so it is easy to reach. Here's a photo of the swivel blocks on the mast.http://www.catalina25-250.org/tech/tech25/snkvang.html

Instead of the swivel block, other skippers run the line through a turning block and deck organizer - then back to a cleat on the cabin top. Both set ups work.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 08/11/2003 : 21:08:47

Joerg - Bill's description (as usual <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>) is concise & to the point. However, I used 3/16" line (less friction). Make sure that the turning block at the aft end of the boom is set far enough back so that the reefing cringle in the leech of the main is pulled back as well as down. This ensures keeping the mainsail foot as tight as possible.
Derek

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc30b3127cce942c608d6f1e0000001010" border=0>
TRFK#2262"This Side Up"

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RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2003 : 12:03:15

Bill:

Which one of those lines is the reefing line?

Is it led aft to the cockpit for cleating or do you have to go forward to the base of the mast?

RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity"

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Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2003 : 12:42:04

Hi Richard,

The way I have things rigged now, the two swivel blocks on the lower port side of the mast are for the first and second single-line reef lines. The swivel block on the lower starboard side is for the cunningham.

The other lines that you see are: Main halyard through the starboard turning block; Boom vang shackled to the bail; Jib halyard and Spinnaker halyard through the turning blocks to port.

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

Edited by - on

JoergK
Navigator

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USA
140 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2003 : 16:16:53

Bill, Derek,
thank you very much for the instructions. I can see now what "single line" means. I assume I can do this with a second line for the other set of points (double reef), just switching port and starboard on the boom.
Bill, just one question on the caulk for the windows: do you have a commercial name for this product?

Joerg
86C25 SR-SK Second Wind

Edited by - on

Bill Holcomb
Admiral

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USA
769 Posts

Response Posted - 08/12/2003 : 16:31:05

Hi Joerg,

There are lots of polysulfide bedding compounds around. Most marine chandleries like West Marine....et al.... carry several different brands. Here are a couple common names:
Life-Calk from BoatLife
101 Marine Sealant from 3M

Bill Holcomb - C25 Snickerdoodle #4839

Edited by - on

JoergK
Navigator

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USA
140 Posts

Response Posted - 08/13/2003 : 13:34:56

Thanks, Bill
... for my next weekend projects <img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

Joerg
86C25 SR-SK Second Wind
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d632b3127cce8cc1e80685990000000010" border=0>

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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 08/14/2003 : 00:33:05

Before you go to the trouble of re-bedding your windows, you might try simply applying a bead of automobile windshield sealant all wround the edge of the glass. I am not familiar with the 86's, but my 81 with aluminum frame windows leaked like a sieve. One application of winndshield sealant between the rubber and the glass solved the problem. Six seasons later, still no leaks...

Dave on "Wood Duck" (2616)

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cch
Navigator

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202 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2003 : 09:21:12

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Before you go to the trouble of re-bedding your windows, you might try simply applying a bead of automobile windshield sealant all wround the edge of the glass. I am not familiar with the 86's, but my 81 with aluminum frame windows leaked like a sieve. One application of winndshield sealant between the rubber and the glass solved the problem. Six seasons later, still no leaks...

Dave on "Wood Duck" (2616)

<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

Hi Dave,
I have a 1980 with the same problem and have always felt the problem was between the frame and the glass. I am not sure what you mean by windshield sealant. Is it similar to silicone? How is it packaged? I will try the car parts store. Thanks for the idea.

Chris Hunsicker
Panama City FL
Moonglade
80 C25 #2126 sr/sk

Edited by - on

deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 08/17/2003 : 23:19:32

Chris:

The tube of selant is long since gone, but it is by the same company that makes other auto sealants (such as gasket compounds). It is clear, probably a type of silicon, and you simply apply a thin bead along the edge of the rubber window gasket, then smooth it out with your thumb or forefinger. I will check and see if I cannot find the name. I got the idea on this web site six years ago...

Dave on "Wood Duck" (#2616)

Edited by - on

Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3321 Posts

Response Posted - 08/17/2003 : 23:44:56

Auto parts stores sell a product for RV's called "Flowable Silicone" - it flows easily, sets up quickly and cleans up with acetone.

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc30b3127cce942c608d6f1e0000001010" border=0>
TRFK#2262"This Side Up"

Edited by - on

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