Catalina - Capri - 25s International Assocaition Logo(2006)  
Assn Members Area · Join
Association Forum
Association Forum
Home | Profile | Register | Active Topics | Forum Users | Search | FAQ
Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

 All Forums
 Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums
 Catalina 25 Specific Forum
 electrical system short
 New Topic  Topic Locked
 Printer Friendly
Author Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  

CB
1st Mate

Member Avatar

54 Posts

Initially Posted - 08/14/2003 :  12:29:26  Show Profile
The other day I shorted out my entire electrical system, I'm not sure what "blew" but all my fuses are OK, and nothing works.
There is no fuse at the "master" switch, is there an inline fuse somewhere that I can't find, or could I have blown the switch?
Anyone ever have a similar situation on their hands?
Thanks,
Chris
'81 sk/sr
#2672


Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 08/14/2003 :  14:43:33  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
is there an inline fuse somewhere that I can't find, or could I have blown the switch?


<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>

I'd try hardwiring an item to the battery to see if you blew the switch. Inline fuses should be located from any battery charging items you might have to the battery selector or the battery. From the selector to the Master and also on many components that are not analog. If everything of yours is down though, it is probably from an inline fuse between the selector switch, and your panel.

If that doesn't work, start working each item backward to the battery and you should find it.

dw

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/images/layout/category_images/t_3964.jpg" border=0>

Edited by - on
Go to Top of Page

JimB517
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2003 :  19:25:14  Show Profile  Visit JimB517's Homepage
I'm surprised no one else answered this thread. Here's what I would do. If you don't have a digital voltmeter - continuity tester, get one at Radio Shack. $100. Worth it. Don't forget the batteries.

This type of problem is probably a bad ground, loose connection, or a burned wire between the battery combiner and the master panel.

Check the master dc fuse on the panel with your new meter just to make sure it's good.

(1) Do you have shore power? Does the 110V work? Just curious. Doesn't really help, BUT 110 vac can KILL YOU. 12 vdc is generally pretty safe. If it's working, turn it off.

(2) Do you have 12 v dc power at the batteries? 2 batteries or one? Voltage should be &gt; 12.5 volts (remember 13.6 is fully charged). Some things don't work under 12.5 v. Terminal connections clean and tight?

(3) The batteries are cabled to the battery combiner switch. Usually a Perko, mine is on the port side near the galley. Do you have 12v dc power at the combiner? Is it set to 1, 2 or all? Are all the wires here clean and tight? The only way I can see the connections to this switch is through the port locker next to the galley.

(4) Assuming that the battery combiner switch has power, trace the wires from here to your master panel. Mine is above the sink. The only way to get at it is from inside the port lazerette.

You didn't say what you did to "blow" the system. Was their a major short? Did you smell smoke? was there a flash, spark, light, or sound?

There is not a in-line fuse between the battery combiner switch and the master panel that I know of. But if you had a big short a wire could have melted. There are heavy cables from the battery to the combiner switch. But there are lightweight wires from the switch to the panel.

So you're inside the lazerette with the tester. Is there 12vdc to the panel? Yes - major wiring is OK. No - something in the panel is loose, burnt, or corroded. Turn off your 12v battery combiner switch and test each wire in the master panel with the continuity tester in your meter (up to now you've been using the DC voltage setting). 0 between ends of a wire is good. Anything else, you've found the problem.

It just can't be past here or at least some circuit would be working and/or an individual fuse would be bad.

<img src="http://www.indiscipline.org/cat25/pictures/icon.jpg" border=0>Indiscipline 1978 FK #398

Edited by - on
Go to Top of Page

atgep
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

1009 Posts

Response Posted - 08/15/2003 :  20:41:39  Show Profile
Don't spend that much on a meter. I am a do it yourselfer. Sometimes my tools pay the price for ingnorance!! There are some things you can do to a meter only once and POOF all the smoke stored inside of it comes out! I have found very good meters at Sears of all places for $30-$40. For the boat you might consider a very cheap $10 meter since it is bound to get wet or broken. A handy thing for any meter is a set of long leads perhaps 10 feet or so with aligator clips on the ends. You could make these with parts from Radio Shack.

You could buy an expensive Fluke (brand) professional meter that will do the same thing as a $10 one. The only differance is after you drop it in the water you would still have $90 in your pocket. Just my opinion.



Edited by - atgep on 08/15/2003 20:42:18

Edited by - on
Go to Top of Page

frog0911
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

USA
1349 Posts

Response Posted - 08/16/2003 :  01:10:28  Show Profile
I have a Fluke that I use around the house and on the cars, but for the boat try Harbor Freight they have a nice little digital for $3.99 on sale right now which is perfect for water use. If you drop it overboard for less than $5.00 no big deal.

As for your problem there are many possibilties as was mentioned, but 99% of most 12v DC problems are caused by bad grounds. If you did not find any burnt wires on inspection, start checking continuity on all your grounds begining with the battery ground and go forward from there. One little thing I learned, after I took the complete dash out of a car and shot all the wires, my neighbor, a very wise fellow, asked if I had checked the ground from the battery to frame ground, I said of course, no he said take it off and wiggle it with the meter on it. You guess it, as soon as I did the meter dropped. Changed the cable and bingo the problem went away. The point is small breaks don't necessarily show up in a stretched wrapped wire until you move it.

Good luck

Frog and the General
79 C25 Wing #1166
Orange Park, FL

Edited by - on
Go to Top of Page
  Previous Topic Topic Next Topic  
 New Topic  Topic Locked
 Printer Friendly
Jump To:
Association Forum © since 1999 Catalina Capri 25s International Association Go To Top Of Page
Powered By: Snitz Forums 2000 Version 3.4.06
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.