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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Portions of the pseudo-wood bulkheads in my cabin have been bleached from sunlight exposure... except where some stuff was mounted on the surface. (the PO apparently too cheap to install curtains).
Does anyone out there have some practical suggestions on 'restoring' these surfaces to blend in the dark/light patches that have been created?
For now I've rubbed some furniture oil on them to get a little finsh sheen back but can't think of much anything else to do short of overlaying them with some fresh veneer... or painting them...
Suggestions welcome.
Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family, '78 Catalina 25
Sounds tricky, but check out Howard Restore-a-Finish, available in many hardware and paint stores, and intended for sprucing up antiques. It comes in about 6-8 colors--you could use something like Cherry to get the color back in those spots, and then Golden Oak on the whole thing to get a consistent finish. It's an oil/solvent type finish that comes in a rectangular can and is wiped on.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
I bought a case of "Golden Oak" directly from their website, and I use it all the time. I hate to say it though, but, depending on how severely your paneling is faded, it might not darken the light patches enough to blend in with the rest of the paneling. I say that because the paneling behind my settee cushions is not faded, and it is markedly darker than the paneling that is exposed to the light ... that's after several coats of Restore-a-Finish.
Dave also suggested you try a darker shade ... I agree that's worth a try. Restore-a-Finish isn't really a stain though, so I'm not sure it'll give the results you want. Nevertheless, I don't think you can hurt it ... I think it'll look better, but not perfect.
Pseudo wood??? I don't understand, my boat has teak(solid wood) and teak veneer ply. On each I've used Howards and thought it worked terrificly, yet I doubt it would do what you're looking for. And if your pseudo wood is something other than what I have on Calista I doubt it would work at all. The Howards that I used was a stain with perhaps other properties but requiring a finish wax to permatize it. I've used Howards in the home and the boat with great results never using the wax suggested by the manufacturer. On the boat it brought the finish back to original but there wasn't any bleaching as you describe, so no help there,sorry.
Back to the beginning, what do you mean when you say "pseudo wood"? Plastic laminate?
Re: "<i>Portions of the pseudo-wood bulkheads in my cabin ... Does anyone out there have some practical suggestions on 'restoring' these surfaces to blend in the dark/light patches that have been created? </i>"
I haven't tackled that pparticular part of my interior woodwork yet, but here's what I've found so far, and how I presently plan to proceed.
All the visible plywood in my 1979 C-25 seems to be interior grade with a very thin teak veneer. The glue under the veneer (and perhaps the interply glue as well) seems to be fragile, so be carefull with solvents and soaking. On a couple of small pieces I experimented with, here's what worked for me. I stripped the previous finish (wax I think) with acetone and lots of paper towels. Where there was minor delamination, I worked Elmer's glue under the veneer and clamped it for a day or two before proceeding. One or two small areas of more extreme interply delamination and very localized rot were saturated with epoxy and clamped using wax paper and scrap plywood to get them flat.
I then very lightly dry sanded the veneer with fine paper -- maybe 220 or so. <i> This sanding step not only smoothed the surface in preparation for finishing,<b> but evened out the color somewhat. </b></i>
After that, I used compressed air to remove all dust, and varished with semi-gloss indoor/outdoor varnish. I've since read that a better approach is to use high gloss varnish for all but the final coat to avoid blurring the details of the teak grain. This approach is more work than some others, but the results look nice to my eye, and are expected to last a while with little or no annual maintenance.
Re: "<i>... bleached from sunlight exposure ... (the PO apparently too cheap to install curtains). </i>"
That's the strongest argument I've heard yet for installing curtains.
-- Leon Sisson {<i>... still no curtains, but thinking about it ...</i>}
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> ...the other interior panels I've drilled have been composite board with a vinyl finish... <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> I've never seen or heard of that in a C-25. In fact, I'd be willing to bet that Catalina never put composition board bulkheads with the upper shroud chainplates attached to them. Are you sure that "vinyl" isn't some sort of varnish or polyurethane on the veneer?
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.