Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm taking delivery on a 2003 C250wk in a couple of weeks and would appreciate any advice or guidance anyone can give me regarding bottom painting on a new boat. I will be keeping the boat in the water at Lake Oroville. I plan to paint the bottom before I put the boat in the water. I'm curious what type and brand of "barrier coat" and "bottom paint" others have used and their experience with the application and longevity of the bottom paint.
The dealer, at Lake Tahoe, who had been great so far recommended that I contact David Gross at the factory for his advice.
Also, I keep hearing about electrolysis in the water around marina's and it causing damage to the prop, as I will have an inboard diesel.
Thanks in advance for any help and suggestions. I have enjoyed reading the Forum and everyone's suggestions and comments as I wait patiently for delivery.
I don't have answers to your questions...but want to offer congrats on the new boat...and welcome to the forum.
You will note also, if not all ready... that the web site is inclusive of both the older C25 class as well as the c250. While there is considerable inter viewing of forums, a common forum for posting questions or comments relative to both designs is the general forum.
Often, questions as you posed will receive a wider audience there resulting in more response.
Congras on the new boat and welcome to the Catalina family. I had a new one coming, but it took a detour so I am waiting for a newer C250 now.
As for the bottom, just wondering why you would do one for Lake Oroville since it is not a salt water lake? Anyway the marina that I use does not sand new hulls since it voids the warrantee. They first clean any wax or other substance from the bottom with actone, then apply two coats of a non-snadable primer and finish with two coats of interlux bottom paint. The length of time the bottom job last depends on the salinity of the water. My present boat and the new one is kept in brackish water were the salt content varys depending on how much rain we have each season. The last three years we were very short of rain and every six to eight weeks require a barnacle scrape and a bottom job each year. This year has been a banner rain season and the only thing necessary is a green slim scrubbing about every three months. The present bottom job will last for two maybe three years if the water stays fresh.
The prop shaft should have a zink anoide, called zinc ring, of some type attached to it. The purpose is to allow it to where away by attracting the electrons in the water as opposed to your prop and shaft. They normaly require replacement annually if the prop/shaft stays in the water year round. The Engine manual that comes with your boat will show the location and explain replacement requirements. Some engines prop combo's have more than one. My smug pot has two one were the outdrive mounts to the boat and one on the prop shaft just forward of the prop.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> advice or guidance anyone can give me regarding bottom painting on a new boat. I will be keeping the boat in the water at Lake Oroville.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
My boats bottom was painted before it went into the water the first time back in 2000. I had the dealer do it as part of the new boat deal. They used VC17 and it works very well in the Colorado lake I sail in. We keep our boat in year round and the bottom paint will last 18 months to 2 years. If the bottom does get build up just moving the boat a hull speed makes most of the stuff come off. I usually scrub the top 18"with a bottom brush because moving the boat doesn't always get that part clean. VC17 has Teflon in it. I have heard that VC17 does not work in all locations. Our lake temperature gets to the mid 70's and works great for me at our lake.
Frog, thanks for the information...I did read about your new boat and looked at the photos and was glad to read that Catalina is going to do the right thing...Bryan, from what I have read I imagine the VC-17 is the way to go over the barrier coat, and I think I read today that there is a new VC-17...Oscar, thanks and I will take photos of the diesel in the boat and post them or can send them by email if you like...it will be a week or two before the boat is delivered...Thanks to all for your help.
We have our 2001 C250 "O My Nee" on Lake Erie and I would have to say VC-17 is the best bottom paint we have ever had on any boat over the years. Not only is it effective, when it comes time for reapplication in the Spring all that is required is to wash it down a bit as noted in the directions on the can. (Be sure to pressure wash at each haul out.) We did have the dealer apply the 1st application because of letting him be responsable to follow the protocol to remove wax, very lightly sand as per Catalina recommendations. As noted VC-17 is intended for fresh water.
Dan; Congratulations on your new boat. I keep my 250WB on Whiskeytown Lake and I have been looking into bottom paint. Since I don't keep my boat in the water all year, my dealer recommends taking it out and washing it down and waxing it every so often. I don't get to it often enough so I might make the move to a barrier coat and bottom paint. I have had two boats that I kept on the SF Bay. You should have a zinc on the shaft and one on the strut if the strut is isolated from the shaft by a vinyl bearing seal. Good luck. Robert
To follow up for those who are interested. I talked to Kent at the Catalina factory and he told me a new boat can have a barrier coat applied and bottom paint with one of two ways and not violate the hull warranty. #1. Apply a non-etching primer before the barrier coat is applied. #2. Light sanding can be done before the barrier coat is applied and it will not give rise to blisters. I have checked with a few boat yards in Sacramento and the Bay Area and they all provided quotes that included option #2 when using an Epoxy Barrier coat of Interlux 2000/2001 and Interlux VC17m as a bottom paint.
Oscar, I will take photos of the inboard diesel engine layout and post them once I get the boat delivered...seems they are a little slow on the delivery schedule at the factory.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.