Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Our swing to wing conversion is approaching. We pulled Moonglade out of the water 2 weeks ago and we are working on those repairs etc. best done on land. The keel should be ready for us to pick up in the next couple of weeks.
My question is this. Since so much of the bottom will either be new (keel) or sanded (due to fairing) I feel it only makes sense to sand the rest of the bottom and barrier coat the entire bottom prior to bottom paint. A couple of you have suggested that.
I know very little about barrier coats. Actually only what I have read from West Adviser, Interlux web site etc. I found only a few very small blisters when we pulled the boat.
Any comments, thoughts, warnings about barrier coats? Is 4 to 6 weeks out on the ground long enough to hope for a dry enough hull to apply a barrier coat? Here in northwest Florida the humidity is very high and sure to slow the drying process.
"I found only a few very small blisters when we pulled the boat."
Chris, from a cost perspective that comment indicates to me that you really don't need to apply a barrier coat. However, I didn't have any blisters and I did mine anyway. I figured that while I was there I was going to prevent every having to do it again. After all, prevention is better than a cure!
Sanding, stripping or scraping the hull will take longer then you expect so if you plan to do it, get started now. I would suggest calling Interlux and asking them about dry time and your humidity concerns. Thay have specific instructions regarding washing and drying the hull. 1-800-468-7589
I will caution you that there are very specific overcoat and topcoat times with the 2000E/2001E System. Be sure to read all the directions and plan ahead.
Clif Thompson Treasurer C-25/250 National Association. svMoxie '81 25 sk
My local chandler is Ed Webb, a recent Cat 22 national champion. He provided me with the following perspective on barrier coating. "I think that many people have a misconception about the application process of barrier coat. The goal is a 10 mil layer, (the thickness of a dime). It requires applying about four coats then sanding one or more of them off and applying another four coats, etc until you get to 10 mil. This is a long and difficult process to do correctly and should be done suspended from a keel eye inside a boat loft. "(We swing keelers just have to do the best we can.) "This allows some control over debris and temperature. It is a job best left to professionals and they should be held to a high standard."
Read and follow label instructions to the letter, especially about overcoat times. With some epoxies, primarily the ones that cure at lower temps, there can be a problem called "amine blush" that - if not properly rectified - can cause the paint not to adhere to the barrier coat. Best advice is get all the old paint off, sand and solvent wash the hull unless you have one of the later models where sanding the gelcoat invalidates the no-blister warranty, and apply the barrier coats as instructed using a wet mil gauge (available at paint stores)to be sure the stuff is going on as thick as it's supposed to. Three, possibly four coats later the dried film should be as thick as called for. Temperature and overcoat times are pretty critical things to observe, but if you do its just tedious, not hard. You can also add a dye to the middle coat so it's a different color, this will instantly show any skipped areas. Good luck.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>should be done suspended from a keel eye<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
What's that?
RichardG 81 C25 SR/FK "Sanity" <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Fin keel boats have through bolts in the bilge. They hold the keel on. A lifting eye is often connected to the one which would provide a even wieght distribution. When launching with a crane you simply lift from the eye, that way straps don't mess up your bottom. Mostly its cool. Capri 25s have them, I don't know if Catalina 25 do. The sight of a boat hanging from a wire is beautiful in its way.
I have been trying to figure out how to do a decent job with the barrier coat while sitting on stands, trailer or hanging from straps. Your suggestion would be great. I don't know if that is possible at my local boatyard.
Thanks for the idea, it gives me something to work on.
Do it on stands. Once the bottom has curred move the stands to new curred area and do the area where the stands were. Fair it in or dont worry if its going to be coated with bottom paint.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.