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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/08/2003 :  13:19:18  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
'82 sr/sk pt t

I want to say how wonderful this forum is. The people who provide so much help and insight are manna from heaven.

1st. I use V8 Mountaineer to tow the 35 miles to my lake. It seems to have enough power but the Trail-Rite trailer is also a 1982 and the surge breakes do not work at all. LoadMaster now uses electric brakes on all of their sailboat trailers, they claim they are completely water proof. Should I switch over to electrics rather than fix the surges?

2nd. My hull was so badly oxidized that I did not know I had a tan hull! We scrubbed with SoftScrub with bleach. It was a good start. I then bought the Vert Glass Gelcoat restoration system from Lovettmarine.com. I am very happy with the product. The hull looks great! Have other people had success with Vert Glass or other products?

3rd. The standing rigging has barrel turnbuckles, I hate them. I cannot see how to keep them from coming loose other than the lock nuts. Do some boats have open turnbuckles? Where is a good place to buy standing rigging? I don't think I want stock.

4th. HOW DO YOU GET THE PENNENT TO STOP VIBRATING? I've heard that the pennent should not be loose. (How much wiggle should there be at the pivot pin with the boat on the trailer?)

5th. The stock backstay adjuster is awful. What parts have people replaced it with? I hear some people go with a bridle purchase and do not use a car.

6th. What improvements have people made to their transom mounted travelers. I want to stay on the transom but see litte room for improvement with the stern rails the way they are.

Last. Catalina 25s sail very nicely. I had a great week end and am very happy that circumstances brought me and the boat together after a 10 year hiatus from sailing. It is a pleasure to be among you.

Frank and Martha in Wichita KS. Lake Cheney

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/08/2003 :  14:54:15  Show Profile
Hi Frank and Martha... The only one I have anything to offer on is #3. Catalina Direct (catalinadirect.com) sells full or partial sets of rigging with bronze, open turnbuckles--the only way to go. Their prices seem pretty good from what I've found. I'm checking other sources before I replace mine before next season.

BTW, if you don't already have it, Catalina Direct's C-25 Handbook is well worth the $10 or so they charge. While it's mostly a catalog, it has lots of ideas and info about our boats and includes many items not listed on their Web site. CD is a valuable resource for us--know our boats and are good folks to work with, especially when their summer help is back in school. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - dave bristle on 09/08/2003 14:56:00

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Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 09/08/2003 :  15:47:52  Show Profile  Visit Douglas's Homepage
If your launching in fresh water only. I would go with electric brakes. Way better than surge.

The rest of the questions will involve homework on your part to decide what you like. Since I dont know whats on your boat either stock or put there by the PO its a toss up.

Doug&Ruth
Triska (Alberg 29)
Tacoma Wa.

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Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1772 Posts

Response Posted - 09/08/2003 :  17:37:29  Show Profile
<font color=blue>4th. HOW DO YOU GET THE PENNENT TO STOP VIBRATING? I've heard that the pennent should not be loose. (How much wiggle should there be at the pivot pin with the boat on the trailer?)</font id=blue>

Hi Frank,

I think you must be talking about the swing keel "cable hum" while sailing or motoring ... yes? If so, you can loosen it a bit and the hum will go away. Personally, I kinda' like it, but it does take some getting used to.

As for the "wiggle" at the pivot pin ... someone else will have to answer that one ... I don't know how much play is too much.

'Glad you're enjoying your boat!

Buzz Maring
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df23b3127cce9306a9b3abad0000001010" border=0>
~~Freya~~
C-25 SK/SR #68

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Steve Milby
Past Commodore

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USA
5913 Posts

Response Posted - 09/08/2003 :  19:38:00  Show Profile
Derek Crawford has a nifty and simple modification that makes the stock traveler much easier to use. If he doesn't respond to your inquiry, look up his email address on the members list.

Steve Milby "Captiva Wind" C-25 T/FK #2554

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 09/08/2003 :  23:38:31  Show Profile
You may put waterproof electrics on, but if you launch in saltwater it will still eat the drums, shoes and all the other stuff in there unless it's stainless or galvanized.

An alternative to the electric retrofit are stainless steel disk brakes.

Champion trailer (on the web) offers a retrofit kit that bolts right up to many trailer axles. It includes a new master cylinder, hubs, brake tubing etc. Seems to be reasonably priced. I'm planning to upgrade my EZ-Loader with them.

Doesn't matter on how wobbly the keel cable is at the attachment, it is vibrating like a guitar string. If you slack it up a bit, the vibrations will go away.

Good advice on getting the C25 'Bible' from Catalina direct. Lots of good advice & parts in there. They offer open turnbuckles as do West Marine, Sailnet etc..


Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

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Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2003 :  08:33:26  Show Profile  Visit Champipple's Homepage
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Should I switch over to electrics rather than fix the surges?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
<font color=red>see others comments regarding saltwater and freshwater</font id=red>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
Have other people had success with Vert Glass or other products?<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
<font color=red> I use the 3M product, deoxidizer, cleaner and wax all in one. for the most part, you will have success with any deoxidation product.</font id=red>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Where is a good place to buy standing rigging? I don't think I want stock.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
<font color=red>
Check with your local sail loft, most have a rigging shop and they are usually competitively priced. They will most likely, come out and measure along with taking the old equipment. You will also get service if any oddities occur. (ie wrong size etc) Also try catalina Direct (see the links page) Thirdly, you can special order rigging from any big box marine store.</font id=red>

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>4th. HOW DO YOU GET THE PENNENT TO STOP VIBRATING? I've heard that the pennent should not be loose. (How much wiggle should there be at the pivot pin with the boat on the trailer?)<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
<font color=red> If your talking about the keel cable, as noted in another post, loosen it. I don't have a trailer, so I am not sure about the "Wiggle", however I believe there is a bushing or washer centering kit for the keel available at Catalina direct that removes a lot of the "wiggle"</font id=red>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
5th. The stock backstay adjuster is awful. What parts have people replaced it with? I hear some people go with a bridle purchase and do not use a car.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
<font color=red> Can't really help you on this, check the tech tips there might be something there</font id=red>
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
6th. What improvements have people made to their transom mounted travelers. I want to stay on the transom but see litte room for improvement with the stern rails the way they are.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
<font color=red> Supposedly, Frank Butler mounted the traveler on the transom to open up the cockpit area. Our Class rules mandate that the travelers mounting not be changed. That being said, if you never plan on taking the boat to a national event or racing one design, under our one design rules, you can move it wherever you want. There is a great tech tip where a guy moved the traveler to the cabin top. Others have moved it to the cockpit, etc. etc.</font id=red>


D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/images/layout/category_images/t_3964.jpg" border=0>

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2003 :  10:39:06  Show Profile
Since you wouldn't be physically MOVING the traveler, you could have both a REAL traveler on the cabintop and the goofy little original that could be rigged for one-design racing. However, the cabintop traveler locks down your pop-top, if you have one. One thing that would improve the original design on mine is moving the cam cleats to be in line with the control lines. I think there's a Tech Tip or two on that.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2003 :  14:43:40  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
<i>"I think you must be talking about the swing keel "cable hum" while sailing or motoring ... yes? If so, you can loosen it a bit and the hum will go away. Personally, I kinda' like it, but it does take some getting used to.

As for the "wiggle" at the pivot pin ... someone else will have to answer that one ... I don't know how much play is too much."</i>

The hum did have a direct relation to how well the boat was moving. And your right there was something nice to it most of the time. As for the big brass pivot pin that holds the keel on... it seems tight into the hull but the keel wiggles alot. Once again this is while the boat is resting on it's trailer. I guess I should lift it with the launching crane while the keel is down and see if it has much wiggle then.

Frank and Martha in Wichita KS. Lake Cheney<font size=2></font id=size2><i></i>

Edited by - fhopper@mac.com on 09/09/2003 14:47:29

Edited by - fhopper@mac.com on 09/09/2003 14:48:47

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deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2003 :  16:16:43  Show Profile

"2nd. My hull was so badly oxidized that I did not know I had a tan hull!"

There is a terrific article in Popular Sailor (try your local West Marine) from either July or August on bringing back dead gelcoat. I would advise against using rubbing compound initially, esp. on an older boat. Vinegar is the way to start. The article is very clear about the steps after that. Remember: a boat has only one gelcoat, but she can have many painters...

"6th. What improvements have people made to their transom mounted travelers. I want to stay on the transom but see litte room for improvement with the stern rails the way they are."

I have considered moving my traveller to the cabin top or the front of the cockpit. Both have disadvantages: mostly questions of leverage and interference with other equipment (the pop top, biminis, access to the companionway etc.). I decided against: Spreading the load across the boom is possible, but not an insignificant expense in terms of blocks and lines, and the traveller and car add up too (to a total of about $600-800. If you still decide to go ahead with a roof-top mount, check an article on this very topic in the August edition of "Sail", also the Tech Tips on this site. As far as improving the current transom mount, I just squirt teflon lube on the car periodically, and I usually release the traveller line seconds before tacking or gybing so the car will slide neatly over to position for the new tack and cleat it off on the jam cleat.

Dave on "Wood Duck" (#2616)

Dave on "Wood Duck" (#2616)



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cch
Navigator

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202 Posts

Response Posted - 09/09/2003 :  21:36:16  Show Profile
Hi Frank and Martha,

[quote]

I then bought the Vert Glass Gelcoat restoration system from Lovettmarine.com. I am very happy with the product. The hull looks great! Have other people had success with Vert Glass or other products?

[quote]

I went to the web site. The product looked great. I would like to hear more about it.

[quote]

5th. The stock backstay adjuster is awful. What parts have people replaced it with? I hear some people go with a bridle purchase and do not use a car.

6th. What improvements have people made to their transom mounted travelers. I want to stay on the transom but see litte room for improvement with the stern rails the way they are.

[quote]

Harken seems to have some great systems for backstay adjusters as well as transom mounted traveler cars and tracks. Take a look at harken.com My catalog is old ('97) prior to my present business when I had time for my boat, but back then I considered the Harken transom mounted track for the traveler. Looks like it would work great. I have never really cared for cabin top travelers.

I hope you enjoy your Catalina 25 one half as much as we have enjoyed ours. Fantastic boats.


Chris Hunsicker
Panama City FL
Moonglade
80 C25 #2126 sr/sk
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d636b3127cce8c9d4c83e7890000002010" border=0>

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 09/10/2003 :  13:44:36  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
The VertGlass came as a result of my looking for a used boat. There was a dealer in Missouri that put "reconditioned fiberglass" at the end of his ads. I sent him an email and asked if all his boats had been holed, or what? He said he really liket this VertGlass stuff and used it on every boat he got in. I ordered it and have since found that there are severasl products on the market. This roduct has an excellent oxidation removal step that allowed you to control the abrasion by the amouunt of water you used on your sponge or on the hull. The PH wash step was amazing. Then came the mop'n glow step. It was 0 effort and looked great. I am anxious to see how it wears. The product recomends the ph wash and a few more coats every season. That will be a lot better than a buffer!

Frank and Martha in Wichita KS. Lake Cheney

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Derek Crawford
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
3324 Posts

Response Posted - 09/11/2003 :  19:15:18  Show Profile
Hi Frank - sorry I haven't posted this before but I've just returned from a few days at the Texas Coast. Here's a couple of pics of my traveler mod - it makes the darn thing USABLE!! The whole set-up cost me $146 from the Evil Empire.
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df03b3127cce93a53fc55a7a0000001510" border=0>
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3df03b3127cce93a53fc15a7e0000001010" border=0>
It takes 3 turning blocks and a small cam cleat with fairlead on each side. Plus about 20' of 3/16" line (plent big enough!)
Derek

<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3dc30b3127cce942c608d6f1e0000001010" border=0>
TRFK#2262"This Side Up"

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 09/12/2003 :  07:04:22  Show Profile  Visit Frank Hopper's Homepage
[quote]
<i>Hi Frank - sorry I haven't posted this before but I've just returned from a few days at the Texas Coast. Here's a couple of pics of my traveler mod - it makes the darn thing USABLE!! The whole set-up cost me $146 from the Evil Empire.
Derek </i>

That looks great. I wonder if a catamaran sheet cleat would mount on the verticle side of the tiller cutout. They have a secured base with a fairlead and a camcleat that swivel. I guess a small standup turning block would help the line turn before the line entered the fairlead. I wonder what is backing the sides of that cutout.


Frank and Martha in Wichita KS. Lake Cheney

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