Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Had a great time sailing Saturday on my little lake. Not much wind, so we had the iron genny running with the sails up. The wife hates to sit around waiting for wind. We anchored, had lunch, I swam while the wife (the smart one) figured out how to hook up the lights to the batteries, which I've never been able to figure out on my own.
So anyway, we were in the middle of the lake, and I always try to remember the good advise that I get on this board, and I remembered that I should practice reefing in calm weather. Having never reefed before, my wife and I got out our copy of the Catalina 25 manual that we downloaded from this website and we worked it out. My sails have two sets of reefing points, but I could only get the reefing lines through the lower reefing points.
The question is this...when you lower the mainsail to reef it, how do you keep the sail slugs from popping out of the mast through that 5-inch slot? Needless to say, we didn't get to practice reefing very much.
With a sail number like that I would assume that you would have a mast gate. Appearently not. You should have two pieces of metal that connect to the mast around the slot gate. They close the gate while maintainig the slot. I would hope you will not need to fabricate them. Check catalinadirect.com
Thanks again Frank. I was wondering what mast gates are for, and no, my boat unfortunately didn't come with them. From seeing other posts about mast gates, I think someone fabricates them for the C25.
Regarding the post by J.B. Manley, I wonder if that sail stop will work, because unless I don't fully understand reefing (which is entirely likely) you need to pull the sail all the way down to the boom, which would require that the sail slugs slid below the slot in the mast. Am I wrong in this?
No, Ben, you are correct. I use sail stops and, therefore, don't get as good a reef as I would otherwise. However, I haven't found it to be a problem for me, yet. I will switch to mast gates at some point, probably when I get a new main.
A lot of people (including myself) have bought mast gates from Joe Martinek. He fabricates them himself out of stainless steel ... he does nice work, and they are perfect for our boats. I can't remember what he charges ... 'seems to me they are less than $25, postage included.
You can also make your own mastgates from a piece of aluminum carpet threshhold--it takes about ten minutes. A local carpet store gave me a length of scrap from a job they had just completed. When fitted properly, they work fine, and allow single-line reefing led back to the cockpit. I reef in under one minute without exiting the cockpit. Check Tech Tips--the original idea came from Bill Holcomb (of course) and I think it's still in there.
Regarding lack of "mast gates" and reefing ... My std. rig does not have mast gates, but <b>I do have a </b>thingamajig that stops the sail's slides from falling out of the opening. Similar to what's pictured above, it tightens down by turning it. I believe it is original, and it works okay. (Except one time when dousing my main, it (the thingamajig) had come loose and slid all the way down, so when flaking my main, all of the main's slugs came out of the track.)
<b><i>SO here's my question ...</i></b>
When I tried reefing the first time, the one reefing point I have seemed to pull down very tightly on the first sail slug (slide) that was kept up by the thingamajig.
So I presume that <i>to <u>avoid</u> that unseemly (downward) tension </i>on my first sail slide, I should loosen the thingamajig, allow the first sail slide to come out of the track, raise the thingamajig again and tighten. <b>Then I would</b> be able to secure my reefing points and tighen the halyard.
So, it seems to me that in weather, and the desire to reef efficiently, that hassle with the first sail slide makes the task of reefing more difficult than it should be.
(I have never reefed my main since I've had my boat a year.)
Did this lengthy post make sense? Am I correct in my assumption?
Is this scenario why it is a good idea to order the beautiful custom-made mast gates from Joe Martinek ??
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Is this scenario why it is a good idea to order the beautiful custom-made mast gates from Joe Martinek ??<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
I just got my new mast gates from Joe Martinek yesterday and am looking forward to seeing how they will actually work! They are slick little gizmos - however I'm a bit anxious about the installation process. But, I've been able to make everything else work on the boat, so I'm sure I'll figure this one out too. They will be handy!
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> ...however I'm a bit anxious about the installation process... <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Dave & Sharon... I picked up a tapping kit from Home Depot for the size machine screws Joe provided. The kit includes the correct size drill as well as the tap, for just a few bucks.
You'll probably find that the rods are a tiny fraction too long for the gate, by design--a grinding wheel helps a lot in shaping them. I have a little one that fits on my drill--a Dremel would probably work even better.
That's about all there is to that.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
I reefed yesterday for the first time and came to the conclusion that I need to remove my mast gates and take the sail stop out. It was very difficult to get the sail stop down through the gate so I could get the reef tack to the gooseneck. I found the Catalina clew reef syatem to work very well and I simply moved my cunningham line to the reef tack and made it fast on the mast cleat. All in all it has caused me to ship the $189. Harken single line reefing kit back to Harken today. Does anyone have an opinion on running the tack downhaul line through the reef or cunningham cringle verses using a hook?
I bought the mast gates from Joe Martinek ($25), and they work great. Basically, what they do is close the gap in the bolt rope slot so that the slugs can't come out. The slugs slide by them as you raise or lower the main. They're easy to install and I heartily recommend them.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> I reefed yesterday for the first time and came to the conclusion that I need to remove my mast gates and take the sail stop out. It was very difficult to get the sail stop down through the gate so I could get the reef tack to the gooseneck... <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> Frank and Martha: Why do you have a sail stop if you have mast gates? I have one under the gooseneck, but with the gates, you might as well let the sail to drop as far as possible both when reefing and when dousing.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
<i>[/quote] Frank and Martha: Why do you have a sail stop if you have mast gates? I have one under the gooseneck, but with the gates, you might as well let the sail to drop as far as possible both when reefing and when dousing.
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT [/quote]</i>
Exactamundo. We just launched on the sixth and put up the rig as we found it. I think the sail stop was handy for holding the slugs up while the gates were attached but now it seems to have too high a price for such a small convenience. There seem to be several extraneous items in the slot. Also the downhaul cleat is at the bottom. It seems the poptop lock should be last, followed by the downhaul cleat followed by the gooseneck stop, followed by the gooseneck, and then nothing else. How do you have your items ordered?
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> ...It seems the poptop lock should be last, followed by the downhaul cleat followed by the gooseneck stop, followed by the gooseneck, and then nothing else. How do you have your items ordered? <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> My downhaul cleat is permanently frozed at the bottom, then the poptop lock, then the goosneck stopper, then the gooseneck. So poptop lock fouls the downhaul... (Maybe I should get me a $65 Harken thingamajig for that. <img src=icon_smile_cool.gif border=0 align=middle>)
Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.