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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Trailer Question

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Sid
Navigator

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129 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/16/2003 : 09:54:27

How should the boat sit on the trailer? My swing keel has about a 10 degree bow down attitude while on the trailer. It is an EZ Loader with rollers. The rear of the keel is about 2-3 inches off the support before lowering for trailering and the front of the keel maybe 1/4 inch off the support. Should it sit level or is the bow down correct?
Thanks,
Sid

77 C25 SK #21

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 09/16/2003 : 10:06:39

Where is your bow eye sitting in relation to the two V-blocks on the bow support ? It should be between them and basically level with the winch cable.

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

Edited by - on

Sid
Navigator

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129 Posts

Response Posted - 09/16/2003 : 15:28:31

The bow eye is between the V blocks. The aft end of the boat is what looks high. I have to put the trailer jack on a 6x6 block to have the cockpit level so rainwater can drain.
Sid

77 C25 SK #21

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atgep
Master Marine Consultant

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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 09/16/2003 : 20:32:11

Bow down is good (I think). When the trailer is on the ramp, the bow will rise as the ramp is sloped down. this should make placing the boat on the trailer easier. The hull shape will not allow it to roll on/off like a boston whaler. So , bow down on the road means more level on the ramp where it really matters, Tom.

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ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 09/16/2003 : 20:53:02

"I have to put the trailer jack on a 6x6 block "

I think that's "normal".. I have to do the same thing to mine to get the cockpit to drain.

Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family,
'78 Catalina 25

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 09/16/2003 : 21:18:45

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
"I have to put the trailer jack on a 6x6 block "
I think that's "normal".. I have to do the same thing to mine to get the cockpit to drain.
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Mine is very level on the trailer. I crank my jackstand up and am able to drain the cockpit, and that is on a driveway that is sloping the wrong direction.
<img src="http://members.cox.net/fhopper/Catalina25/smPort.jpg" border=0>

<img src="http://members.cox.net/fhopper/Catalina25/sigbow.jpg" border=0>Frank and Martha in Wichita KS. Lake Cheney

Edited by - fhopper@mac.com on 09/16/2003 21:25:06

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cch
Navigator

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202 Posts

Response Posted - 09/16/2003 : 22:30:10

Frank,

Your photos are great. Keep them coming!

Chris Hunsicker
Panama City FL
Moonglade
80 C25 #2126 sr/sk
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d636b3127cce8c9d4c83e7890000002010" border=0>

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 09/16/2003 : 22:57:41

That's all the hull we have beneath the water line? How come it seems so much bigger when I scrub it? Obviously, I've never seen my boat out of the water or a picture that so well depicts our boat out of the water. Maybe the fin/wing keel pictures just make it look more substantial. Thanks for the photo, Frank. Awfully green for Wichita in September, isn't it?

J.B. Manley
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d609b3127cce8d2e212441c60000002010" border=0>
Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
36°29'58" -94°59'59"

Edited by - on

Terry Annis
1st Mate

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USA
35 Posts

Response Posted - 09/17/2003 : 11:00:39

Hi Ed
I have number 789 78SK, This maybe something you already know
but I had my boat launch itself off the trailer once, when I had
the safety chain unhooked and was about to back the last 10feet
down the ramp, the back of the trailer was in about 2ft of water,
what a scare that was. The easyloader rollers work just fine,the
boat didn't hit bottom and I never launch with the rudder on. Man
you should have seen the tidel wave the went across the the ramp, and the heartattack I almost had, I'm sure.
Good Luck with your new boat.

Terry and Kathie LEMATIKE #789

Edited by - on

TrailerBuilder
Deckhand

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1 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2004 : 07:35:41

Sid,

I have worked for E-Z Loader Boat Trailers in Elkhart, IN for 8 years. I have been trained to adjust trailers to fit boats properly, and I can tell you that your boat should be level with your trailer. I suggest that you either raise the front of your bunks or lower the rear of them. Be aware that raising the front may make it more difficult to launch in shallow water. If you choose to lower the rear, be sure the hull of your boat will clear the trailer when loading. After the boat is sitting on your trailer level, you will likely have to adjust the winch stand so it contacts the boat where it did before. I hope this answers your question

Edited by - on

Sunshine Daydream
1st Mate

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57 Posts

Response Posted - 01/10/2004 : 15:45:06

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">
I have worked for E-Z Loader Boat Trailers in Elkhart, IN for 8 years. I have been trained to adjust trailers to fit boats properly,n
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
The resources on this website often amaze me, priceless.

Edited by - on

Gary B.
Admiral

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USA
969 Posts

Response Posted - 01/11/2004 : 02:21:58

My '78 SK sits on a "factory" EZ Loader, too. She sits in what looks like a somewhat "bow down" attitude as well. When she's on the trailer, remember to lower the keel a turn or two to keep the aft end of the keel down on the support. You have just relieved the rollers of most of the 1500# of keel, and made it more difficult to accidentally "self-launch", like my friend Terry Annis did!

Gary B.
Encore! #685 SK/SR
Commodore of Vice

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 01/11/2004 : 09:58:47

Sid, does it look like Leon's?

It looks like that would help float the boat off but make it strange to work on the inside while on the hard. Also difficult to drain the cockpit, however if Leon's looks like this I am willing to bet there is one heck of a good reason for it!

Edited by - on

pwhallon
Admiral

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USA
694 Posts

Response Posted - 01/11/2004 : 10:33:26

Hi Fhopper,

Your boat looks right to me. It is riding like my 86 swinger did. A little bow down but not much.

The one with the red truck is not right. The trailer looks too small or something??? I'm not sure.

Look closely at the difference between your trailer frame and rollers compared to the other one.

PW

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 01/11/2004 : 14:08:16

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by pwhallon
 Hi Fhopper,
The one with the red truck is not right. The trailer looks too small or something??? I'm not sure. Look closely at the difference between your trailer frame and rollers compared to the other one.
PW
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Leon has a huge aft carriage assembly, I can see how that boat would hit the water more level than our's do on our TrailRites. I have 64 rollers on mine he seems to have 4074.

OK its 96 but that is a lot!

Edited by - on

LeighMarie
Navigator

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USA
188 Posts

Response Posted - 01/11/2004 : 17:44:02

It is curious that this issue is being addressed, because my C25 has always been a bit bow down when on the trailer. I wondered if it was right, but it always seemed to trailer alright (that is, it always follows me wherever I go!). I have a sloping driveway and when I bring it home to work on it, I have to jack the front way up in order for the cockpit to drain also. Even then I can't get it to totally drain, but mostly.

I have the E-Z Trailer also and it looks more like Frank Hopper's and not like the one with the little red truck. I also note that on Frank's boat the scum line would indicate that your boat sits a bit bow down in the water like mine. I leave my keel all the way down at my slip and if I crank it up a bit I can get it to sit level with the water stripes, but I would rather leave the keel down all the time. (I know, I know, there is a difference of opinion on that out there, but how I do it is right for me.)

Anyway, it's affirming that other boats sit on the trailers a bit bown down also. My life isn't drastically improved knowing this, but every little bit helps.

Frank, I have to say it looks like the bottom on your boat is similar to mine in color suggesting it may also be an ablative bottom. I have to redo mine this coming spring, and I'm not sure what to do with it. I don't know if I can just paint a couple of more coats on my thin layer now, or if I have to sand it down a bit, or all of it. And, I'm not sure what/how to do my keel. I only have an orbital sander for wood, not a heavy duty sander for the keel. Any thoughts?

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 01/11/2004 : 19:31:20

I have Woolsey Hydrocoat on my boat and the info is below. I would sand lightly to clean the bottom so the new paint adheres well. As for the keel; we put a coat of Petit 6980 on after the soda blasting had the cast iron completely stripped. While the 6980 is not intended as a fairing compound it is thick enough that it helped. You can see the roughness of my keel in the picture. The casting process leaves such a variation in keels that the question as to whether or not you should fair it is up to you. I have used West Systems’ micro balloons on my old Merit keel and found it easy to work with, that was 15 years ago so I am sure there are easy products now as well. Now that my keel is painted with anti-fouling I doubt I will ever have it in a condition to fair again.

Ablative antifoulings - Ablative antifoulings also function, to a degree, by leaching the toxicant into the water. But more importantly, ablative antifoulings also function by the controlled erosion, or ablation, of the paint film. This is achieved by engineering the solubility of the paint resins so that as the active ingredient is leached into the water, the depleted film left behind is so weakened that it polishes right off as the boat moves through the water. This controlled erosion results in a continuously renewed surface, with fresh toxicant always available for the prevention of fouling attachment. Benefits of this engineered solubility and controlled erosion are minimal coating buildup, continuous renewal of antifouling surface, and multi-seasonal capability. And, since the paint film polishes away with use, much like a bar of soap, there is no depleted paint film on the surface which must be sanded off before recoating, greatly reducing the sanding required each year.

Woolsey Hydrocoat
Hydrocoat is specially formulated with a 40% Cuprous Oxide content and durable, waterbased resins fortified. It provides excellent protection against algae, barnacles, zebra mussels and other fouling organisms and is tough enough to withstand frequent trailering, launching and beaching. In addition, Hydrocoat helps improve hull performance by forming an easily-burnished, ultra-slick film that reduces drag for quicker acceleration and faster cruising speed.

Petit 6980 Rustlok Steel Primer
A one package moisture cured polyurethane coating designed for application over any steel or cast iron surface, including galvanized or stainless steel. Rustlok Steel Primer contains aluminum flake pigment which forms a dense, water impervious barrier. The result is excellent corrosion protection. In addition, Rustlok's polyurethane chemistry offers tremendous adhesive strength and wetting ability. It is this combination that allows Rustlok to perform well even when applied over rusted surfaces. An easy to apply effective anti-corrosive barrier coating.

Edited by - on

Ed Montague
Captain

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USA
499 Posts

Response Posted - 01/12/2004 : 00:47:14

Frank, The Rustlok Steel Primer sounds interesting. My only concern is applying aluminum impregnated paint over cast iron and covering that with a copper impregnated paint. What kind of stray electrons are we setting up here? Could this electrolesis create more degradation of the keel? Just a thought. I am planning on fairing my swing keel soon and wondered if I should cover the cast iron with a barrier coat before the other paints. And if I do that then maybe just skipping the primer.

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Sid
Navigator

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129 Posts

Response Posted - 01/16/2004 : 11:52:28

My boat rides similar to Frank's. Just a little bow down, rollers look to be in the same spots. Not really a problem and may help stop trailer sway when towing by putting weight forward.
Sid

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 01/16/2004 : 12:35:32

Ed on 'Yahoo',<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> I am planning on fairing my swing keel soon and wondered if I should cover the cast iron with a barrier coat before the other paints.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">You've probably read my take on iron keel refurbishing, but just in case you and everybody else aren't sick of it yet, here's a [[url="http://www.cs-bb.com/forums/CSBB/index.cgi/read/5496"]link[/url]] to a quick and dirty description of my swing keel treatment.

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">... applying aluminum impregnated paint over cast iron and covering that with a copper impregnated paint. What kind of stray electrons are we setting up here? Could this electrolysis create more degradation of the keel?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">Obviously cast iron can rust. However it does so much more slowly than the thin carbon steel sheet metal we're used to seeing dissappear almost as fast as the car loan payments. So long as electric current isn't being added to the situation via faulty battery charger wiring, I wouldn't loose a lot of sleep over this particular threat. However, I did add a few sacrificial zinc anodes at each end of my keel just for good measure.

-- Leon Sisson

P.S. Oops! I just noticed the commentary above about my trailer. No, there's no "good" reason why my boat is so bow down when trailering, and no, that trailer isn't particularly small. It's a 10,000# (6-lug) former rental powerboat hauler chassis with all new 8,000# (5-lug) undercarriage. The articulated roller assemblies and other chassis elements were rearranged until the swing keel cleared the axles. It is what it is because that's what I could find and afford when I went trailer shopping. I don't know how it floats on or off, because I've always paid to have it lifted in and out. Can you imagine trying to drag that rig up a steep ramp with my little Nissan?

To store or work on the boat on the trailer in my driveway (which slants the "wrong" way), I have to jack the front of the rig way up. I use about 4 or 5 heavy duty jack stands to keep the whole thing steady. The coupler ends up maybe waist height (I can't remember exactly, and all the bruises from walking into it have since healed

).

-- L.S.

Edited by - Leon Sisson on 01/16/2004 12:58:16

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