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anchor retrieval ideas

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Todd Frye
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USA
222 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/22/2003 : 14:41:09

Just got back from a great 2 week float on Bear Lake (Utah/Idaho border) and did some anchoring out for the night. I have a danforth on 20 ft of chain and 100 ft. of rode that did a great job of holding in 20mph+ winds. With all the anchor retrieval I was doing, for sure I will be installing an anchor roller assembly next season. That will save wear and tear on the new rub rail, but not on my back. Has anybody out there come up with a labor saving device to reel in the hook? I also made an anchor riding sail for this trip, which really kept the boat from swinging at anchor. Todd Frye

Edited by - todd frye on 09/22/2003 18:11:11

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2003 : 14:55:57

Hi Todd,

I think you'll be surprised just how much the bow roller will help in bringing up the anchor. The change in angle and position is a real back saver.

Regards,

J.B. Manley
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d609b3127cce8d2e212441c60000002010" border=0>
Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
36°29'58" -94°59'59"

Edited by - on

Douglas
Master Marine Consultant

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1595 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2003 : 18:55:35

Bow roller realy helps. Motor up on the anchor pulling in the line as you go. When the line gets near vertical cleat it off and let the forward momentum of the boat break out the anchor. If you wanted to you could mount a windlass just aft of the locker.

Doug&Ruth
Triska (Alberg 29)
Tacoma Wa.

Edited by - on

joe keith
1st Mate

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USA
26 Posts

Response Posted - 09/22/2003 : 21:49:01

Has anyone on the list tried the small vertical manual windlasses? Lewmar and Muri make some that might work well on a 25.

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n/a
deleted

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163 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2003 : 16:15:53

Doug's suggestion is the easiest way to get the anchor in without the expense and toe-stubbing of an anchor windlass. Same trick works well when anchor is really dug in after a blow; just motor up until rode is vertical, wait for bow to plunge into the next wave trough, cleat, and let the rising bow pull the anchor out. You will want something to clear all the gunk off before bringing the anchor aboard though.

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Dave Bristle
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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/23/2003 : 17:20:52

To you guys with rollers... Did you mount another cleat in line with the roller? Aft of the anchor locker? Does it knock your shins when you're working on the foredeck? I can't see how the bow cleats would work with a roller.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2003 : 12:17:33

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
To you guys with rollers... Did you mount another cleat in line with the roller? Aft of the anchor locker? Does it knock your shins when you're working on the foredeck? I can't see how the bow cleats would work with a roller.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Dave,

My personal answers are: Not yet, that would be the place, assume it will, and at least not very well.

I noticed this summer that when the rode was made fast to the starboard bow cleat that the rode spent a good deal of time snugged up to the outboard bow roller channel. Therefore, over an extended period or under heavy load the rode would be at risk.

I only spent a couple of hours at a time on the hook this summer, and never under any significant load. Although, chafe from hunting was beginning to cause enough concern that I rigged some temporary guards.

So, you've correctly identified one of next spring's first projects.

J.B. Manley
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d609b3127cce8d2e212441c60000008010" border=0>
Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
36°29'58" -94°59'59"

Edited by - on

deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2003 : 15:50:36

I have two ss cleats mounted either side of the vent just aft of the chain locker. I mounted angled bow chocks on the toe rail just forward of the existing cleats. The new cleats take up to 7/8" line, which is really useful when mooring in foreign ports where the pennants are often too thick for the C25's bow cleats. The new port side cleat is in direct line with the angled bow roller. It works like a dream. I was concerned at first that the new cleats might prove to be "toe stubbers" but they have not been in the way at all.

Dave on "Wood Duck" (#2616 - SR, FK)

Edited by - on

Greg Jackson
1st Mate

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84 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2003 : 23:49:15

If you have wind and room at the anchorage, you should not bother with pulling up the anchor, let the wind to the work for you. This is a classic technique, I have done it quite a few times, on boats up to 40'. It even works well single handed.

When you want to get off the hook, keep the foresail down but raise the main. With the main up and the rudder held to center, the boat will begin to tack back and forth agains the anchor. It will sail upwind until the anchor forces a tack. Now, once you have it tacking back and forth, walk casually up to the bow and wait until it just completes a tack, then rapidly pick up the limp rode until the boat crosses over the anchor. At that point, cleat off the remaining rode so the boat will tack without ripping the rode out of your hands. Once it has tacked again, repeat. After 2 or 3 tacks you will likely be in a position such that you can cleat the rode and it is almost vertical over the anchor. When you cleat it off in this position, the momentum of the boat will lift the anchor out of the bottom, no matter how deeply it has been set. The only trick to the whole thing is to make certain, if you are single handed, that you have enough room that you can get the last bit of rode in, the anchor washed off, and back to the tiller before the boat, which is now sailing free, gets into trouble.

This may be a problem if you are in less than 20 feet of water and you are running 20 feet of chain. Personally, I think 12 feet of chain and 200 feet of nylon makes a better combination. Sometimes I am in deep water and you should have 210 feet of rode to be safe in 30 feet of water.

Greg Jackson

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2003 : 13:56:00

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
I have two ss cleats mounted either side of the vent just aft of the chain locker. I mounted angled bow chocks on the toe rail just forward of the existing cleats. The new cleats take up to 7/8" line, which is really useful when mooring in foreign ports where the pennants are often too thick for the C25's bow cleats. The new port side cleat is in direct line with the angled bow roller. It works like a dream. I was concerned at first that the new cleats might prove to be "toe stubbers" but they have not been in the way at all.

Dave on "Wood Duck" (#2616 - SR, FK)
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

Okay, Dave, I need help here. Are you only using the bow chocks for mooring pennants? I'd like to use the bow roller with bow chocks and Arlyn's anchor bridle. So, I'm thinking the only way to do so is to 1) pay out additional rode, 2) make rode hard to the inboard cleat, 3) tie the bridle with the slack, 4) run both ends of the bridle through chocks, and 5) cleat the bridle ends to both outboard cleats. This should effectively take all load off the bow roller, eliminate the bow roller channel chafe problem, and help address anchor sailing. Right? Or do you have another method?

BTW, I was planning on placing the inboard cleats on either side of the vent, too. Might as well keep all the V-berth leaks close together. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

Thanks,

J.B. Manley
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d609b3127cce8d2e212441c60000008010" border=0>
Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
36°29'58" -94°59'59"

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2003 : 21:17:18

By "vent", do you guys mean "skylight"? I can't think of any vent except the forward hatch... <img src=icon_smile_question.gif border=0 align=middle> Ideally, the skylight should not be a vent.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 09/26/2003 21:19:01

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2003 : 22:28:21

4" passive airflow vent mounted directly fore of the skylight.

J.B. Manley
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d609b3127cce8d2e212441c60000008010" border=0>
Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
36°29'58" -94°59'59"

Edited by - on

deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 10/01/2003 : 12:52:04

JB: Here is what I do. I don't claim it as the ideal solution, but it is what I do:

1) The anchor (14lb Delta) sits on the bow roller with fifteen feet of chain and lots of rode. It also has a 1/4" snag line or retrieval line attached to a shackle at the head of the anchor. When deploying the anchor, the rode runs over the bow rollers, the snag line runs through the starboard bow chocks. The rode gets tied to my new port cleat just aft of the chain locker, the snag line to the starboard cleat.

2) I tie over the bow roller, under the rode, a twelve-inch length of fire hose split open. It seems to work fine as chafe gear, and keeps the rode away from the sharp metal enclosure of the anchor rollers.

3) If a wind change is forecast, I add a three-pound (I think--it may be five) mushroom to the rode via a bronze snap shackle. It slides down the rode on a quarter-inch line which gets tied off to one of the old bow cleats.

4) At my own mooring I have a bridle pennant which fits through both bow chocks, protected by a length of chafing gear, and is tied off to the new bow cleats.

5) For the right sized line, the old bow cleats work fine. I use them for docking. They are better in a way than my installed cleats because less subject to problems of chafing. I did raise them a smidge by reseating them with a 1/32" washer between the cleats and the deck. That allows 5/8" line to fit easily. Also, I installed heavier gauge bolts and a real backing plate.

Dave on "Wood Duck" (#2616 - SR, FK)

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 10/01/2003 : 12:58:27

Thanks alot for the detailed explanation, Dave. It really helps me decide how I want my final ground tackle configuration, especially the value of adding the chocks.

Thanks again,

J.B. Manley
Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
Grand Lake O' the Cherokees
36°29'58" -94°59'59"

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