Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Does anyone remember the 50's and 60's? Trailer surge brakes are like the old non selfadjusting drum brakes of those days. What is the rule of thumb for adjusting the shoes? I spun the star wheels so there was just a small periodic brushing of one of the shoes on the drum as you spin the rim. Are you supposd to tighten the star wheel until the rim drags uniformly? It almost seems like the rim should stop in under three revolutions if you give it a good spin. Anyway, can someone tell me what the adjustment should be?
If you are talking about the type drums that were on my 57 Chevy, the adjustment is made by tightening the star until you have drag when spinning the wheel. Then tighten one klick and spin the wheel. Continue to do this until the wheel will not spin with a slight pull. Then back off the star three klicks and your done. You may still have drag, but this is due to the brakes not being adjusted properly the first time resulting in uneven wear on the shoes. You can make the adjustments with a big screw driver, but a brake spoon makes it a lot easier. I have not looked for one in so long I don't even know if they still make them. Costs should be between $3-5.
Boat trailer drums usually have a round pop out disk on the outside of the drum to do this. Just pull the wheel, and look for it on the face of the drum... insert a thin screw driver and it will easily come out.
If the plug is on the face of the drum there is no difference in the adjustment method. It is not neccessary to have the rim and tire on the drum, just spin the drum using one of the lugs.
This is a valuable thread. My surge brakes have been too loose to do me much good, I think. When I called recently, the EZ Loader factory dude told me to tighten them tight, then back off 10 clicks. Just haven't done it yet.
However, the 3 revolution idea sounds pretty good. Mine are so loose now that I barely have any drag. No wonder it feels like they aren't helping much! Thanks, guys
I don't have any experience with trailer brakes, but the 10 clicks figure was what we used for big trucks. Anywhere between 3 and 10 should work just make sure they are all the same. On a auto we never went more than five. By the way one click equals 1/4 turn of the star not one revolution.
Speaking of trailer brakes has anyone seen this problem. When the brakes are applied they work OK but then they don't all release. If I open any of the 4 bleeders the brakes release. I've replaced the surge coupler/actuator so far. The boat comes out of the water in a few (way too few) weeks and I need to do something about this.
If all 4 wheels are locked then it could be 2 things. 1 all of the springs are weak and will not release the brakes. Not very likely. 2 something is blocking the return of fluid to the master cyl. If you replaced the coupler/hydraulic components here are a few thing that you can look at. A. did you bleed the brakes completely? B. do you have a reverse lockout selenoid/valve? If not bled properly the brakes can do strange things. If you have the reverse lockout selenoid then it may be stuck in the locked out position and be acting like a check valve. Mine is mounted just behind the master cylinder. you can remove the selenoid for troubleshooting. You could even tow with it disconnected. Just don't try to back up once the boat is on the trailer! Hope this helps, Tom.
"...don't all release. If I open any of the 4 bleeders the brakes release..."
Are you pulling forward on the coupler to release the pressure to the wheels ? Is your coupler in a bind and not releasing ?
Note: When you park a trailer with surge brakes you are supposed to pull forward a bit (after backing anyway) to insure the master cylinder is extended and the brakes are fully released.
Otherwise they can rust to the drums and cause a real mess. (don't ask how I know this)
Currently maintaining two holes in the water...'77 Venture 23 and new to the family, '78 Catalina 25
I could not find an access port on the drum either. I went to school on the port drum, Took it on and off 5 times to get it right. Nailed the starboard drum in one try. I now have brakes. I have spent $700 on brakes and rollers. Thanks to this forum I did not dump my trailer and spend thousands of dollars that I do not have on a new one. Thank you everyone.
Thanks for the advise on the trailer brakes. There is a quick-disconnect flexible hose in the system maybe that is acting like a check valve. I'll check all the hoses, etc.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.