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access to ice box

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tweekes
Deckhand

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USA
14 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/24/2003 : 08:51:05

I want to put additional insulation around the ice box. How have others found is the best way to access the area.

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Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2003 : 12:32:15

Hi Tom,

There is a lot of information in the archives regarding the addition of extra insulation to the icebox. Try "insulate" for the search.

Access is gained, depending on your model, through the drawer cabinet beneath the galley sink. Although, you need to be a contortionist to get there. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

J.B. Manley
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d609b3127cce8d2e212441c60000008010" border=0>
Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
36°29'58" -94°59'59"

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joe keith
1st Mate

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USA
26 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2003 : 13:14:05

Take both drawer frames out. That gets you better access to three of the four sides. The fourth is the forward wall in the port cockpit locker.

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Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 09/24/2003 : 19:39:20

tweekes,

Re: "...to put additional insulation around the ice box. How have others found is the best way..."

First, I checked into how much insulation is worth the trouble of installing. The answer for iceboxes seems to be 2" to 4" minimum.

I looked at adding insulation to the outside of the stock icebox. It looked difficult to fit much in on the fore and aft walls. The outboard side wasn't looking like a piece of cake either. The bottom is comparatively easy to add a lot of insulation to, and the inboard side can take another inch or two before it interferes with the galley drawers under the sink.

Here's what worked for my in my 1979 C-25 dinette model. I chose to add insulation to the inside of the stock icebox. I built a new liner with all right angle corners and a minimum of about 2" of blue rigid foam insulation inside the old liner. To end up with the rectangular interior shape, I added maybe a max of 5-1/2" in the forward upper outboard corner. Note: this results in a rather small icebox volume!

I made up the liner using fiberglass shower stall sheathing that I got on sale at Lowe's home improvement center. The fiberglass was easy to cut and shape with a power jigsaw and disk sander. The seams were bonded and sealed using large fillets of epoxy tinted white thickened with white micro-balloons (which are good insulation and easy to sand). After sanding the cured seams, I painted the entire liner with two coats of white tinted epoxy resin.

I also slanted the new floor about 1" toward the forward inboard corner and added a small (maybe 2oz) sump around the slightly relocated drain. The 1/2" drain hose has a loop and a PVC ball valve where it T's into the sink drain at the 1" seacock.

To insulate the stock teak lid, I carefully carved 1/2" and 2" sheets of blue foam to fit the top of the stepped opening. I then wrapped that stack in two layers of thin fiberglass cloth and epoxy. After that was cured and trimmed, I attached it to the teak lid from the bottom with SS screws. I added sticky backed foam weather stripping to the bottom of the lid insulation as a gasket.

I also converted most of my aft dinette seat bench into another, larger icebox with 3-1/2" insulation using similar methods. But that's a different project altogether.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

After a month-long cruise in the tropics, I'm pleased with the results.<img src=icon_smile.gif border=0 align=middle>

-- Leon Sisson

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n5lfy
Deckhand

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USA
15 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2003 : 18:05:16

I found it helpful to remove the sink while adding foam sheets around the icebox. It only took about 10 minutes to remove the sink. Unclamp the drain hose and unscrew three clamp screws then it comes out the top. This allows another access point to reach the foam and to see what you're working on, as well as allowing more light into the work area.

I removed my counter top. After I built a "box" of foam around the cooler, I drilled three holes in the fiberglass top between the outboard side of the cooler and the hull of the boat. I injected 2 spray cans of foam spray (non-expanding) into the cavity. That was easy! Put the counter top back on and the sink back in and now the ice lasts a little longer in the hot Texas sun.

--
Regards,
Stephen M. Nolan

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Brooke Willson
Admiral

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USA
983 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2003 : 20:19:43

I found it's much easier and cheaper to put a plug in the drain in the icebox, use it to store pots and pans and dry goods, and buy a good portable cooler that you can haul in and out of the boat to restock with ice and food. Put some eyestraps in the quarterberth and a strap to keep the cooler from moving when the boat tacks.

Brooke

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Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2003 : 21:03:12

Our cooler rides under the dinette table where it can't go anywhere. We agree that the "icebox" serves better as a storage bin, except that the drain must be plugged or disconnected--otherwise, the sink will tend drain into it if the thru-hull is obstructed (or even if it isn't).

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.