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pierrem
1st Mate

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64 Posts

Initially Posted - 09/25/2003 : 22:15:41

just purchased a 84 swing keel on Lake Mendota, Madison , Wi. A couple of questions:
1. 150 Genny is OK (all sails original) I plan on keeping the boat for about 2 years. It currently has hanked on sails. I would like to get a roller furler. Would you use the orignal 150?
2. I will redo all the teak this winter. Looks like some can be removed. what are your experiences? What about down below ...refinish steps etc. ?
I am having a ball with the boat....flew the gennaker last week.

any other tips.

Pierre McCormick

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2003 : 22:29:37

Welcome, Pierre, and congratulations on your purchase. Hopefully, you'll decide to keep her for more than two years.

There are a lot of previous posts regarding roller furler and furler sail configurations. Try "furler" in the search function. Speaking of roller furlers, have you read the article by Tom Cunliffe in the new Sail Magazine? <img src=icon_smile_evil.gif border=0 align=middle> (Inside joke...I'm not a fan of furlers.)

Regarding refinishing teak, there is a long discussion currently in process. It should be listed near the top of the General or C25 forum lists.

Best regards,

J.B. Manley
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d609b3127cce8d2e212441c60000008010" border=0>
Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
36°29'58" -94°59'59"

Edited by - Antares on 09/25/2003 23:32:50

Edited by - on

pierrem
1st Mate

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64 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2003 : 22:41:04

just after posting I went to the search function...lo and behold...lotsa of info on teak...thanks

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2003 : 22:52:51

Welcome, Pierre!

JB's opinions on furlers are his own... <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> We love ours. If you decide to go that way, you may need to have your 150 cut a little higher at the clew for even furling. If you really expect to keep her only 2 years, you may not get your money back on the furler investment, but if you use her a lot, you'll get it back in enjoyment. However, if you plan to race, you may want to rethink the idea.

If you like "finished" exterior teak, I can't recommend Cetol highly enough, although that can generate some controversy. For the interior, several folks here have used Howard's Restorer, an oil-type finsih available in better paint shops and hardward stores. Some use Cetol, and some go with varnish (since there's little weather and UV to work on it). The thread JB mentioned has a discussion about removing the exterior pieces.

Keep in touch, and I'll put in a plug for the association--the tiny little membership fee supports this great forum, among other things. Also consider getting Catalina Direct's C-25 Owner's Handbook--a lot of good info in a catalog of replacement and upgrade items just for our boats. They're at www.catalinadirect.com.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 09/25/2003 : 23:49:41

Hey now, I seem to recall at least one other non-furler advocate on that previous thread.

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>JB's opinions on furlers are his own... <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle><hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
...and Tom Cunliffe's. <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>If you like "finished" exterior teak, I can't recommend Cetol highly enough, although that can generate some controversy.<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>

I bet you'd change your tune, if it was called Bristle Finish. <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle>

J.B. Manley
<img src="http://im1.shutterfly.com/procserv/47b3d609b3127cce8d2e212441c60000008010" border=0>
Antares '85 FK/SR #4849
36°29'58" -94°59'59"

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2003 : 09:13:03

See, Pierre... Generated some controversy! (JB likes to stir up trouble.) <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

pierrem
1st Mate

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64 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2003 : 10:04:32

thanks,

I just joined the assoc. and purchased a catalina sweatshirt for those cool fall days on Lake Mendota in Madison, Wi.(ranked #1 city by Money Mag a few years ago).

anyhow can all of the exterior teak be removed?

suggestions for cleaning interior teak. My impression for Howards was that it restored but not necessarily cleaned.

What about original cushions. Can the be removed...? Dry cleaned? ideas?

thanks,

I can tell this is a great organization.

Pierre

Edited by - on

MikeM
1st Mate

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72 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2003 : 10:17:58

For the teak I would also recommend Armada over Cetol, less orangey color and just as durable.

Welcome on board

Mike M
Marblehead, MA
C25 #1212

Edited by - on

jwilliams
Captain

Members Avatar

USA
357 Posts

Response Posted - 09/26/2003 : 12:53:26

Ditto on Armada.

I did Hey Jude's teak about 4 years ago. I need to re-do it this year. Not bad. I get compliments on it even tho there are a few spots where I have worn off the corners, or banged it and gotten a lighter colored spot.

If you do it right, with Armada, annually you rough the surface with a 3M purple pad, wipe it with Acetone, put one coat of Armada on, and you are good for another year. I have not done that faithfully (shame) still it looks pretty good.

Jim Williams
Hey Jude C25fk 2958
Half Moon Bay, CA

Edited by - on

LeighMarie
Navigator

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USA
188 Posts

Response Posted - 09/28/2003 : 19:09:34

Congrats on your new C25. I have a 1985 swing keel that I have had for 2 years now. Unfortunately, I just pulled it out of the water yesterday for the winter.

Regarding the teak: When I got the boat in Feb. of last year I took all the teak off the exterior, sanded it all down, applied Cetol (which I believe looks great!) and put it all back on. I really like the looks of it, and in taking it all off I was able to clean/sand it all and do it right. It was a lot of work, but it was well worth it.

Inside I cleaned all of the teak with a teak cleaner and then applied a couple of coats of Teak Oil. I did all of this this year and I was amazed at how it livened all the wood up inside. Because the inside is not exposed to the weather I understand it's better to go with Teak Oil. I don't know if that's right or not, but I really like it.

I really like it when the wood on a boat looks nice, and ours certainly does. I'm glad I have a boat that has wood on it yet.

Good luck!

Dave & Sharon on "Leigh-Marie"
Hull #5128

Edited by - on

jsummerfield
1st Mate

Members Avatar

USA
96 Posts

Response Posted - 09/28/2003 : 21:14:42

I just replaced the companionway trim that holds the hatch boards. This was quite easy using the boards from Catalina Direct. I had to trim some at the top.

I am a silver teak kinda guy (lazy). You simply let it weather and it lasts for a very long time. The brightwork boys will quite properly address the superior appearance with the annual refinishing. I did not replace bad teak from the weathering. Someone broke off a piece near the top of the companionway trim and rain was leaking in. This could have happened even if a beautiful shade of shiny gold instead of my flat silver.

John
C25 3973 FK/SR
"Texas Tango"

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/28/2003 : 22:27:50

I had "silver" teak on a boat once... It's deteriorating teak, being broken down by sun, moisture that 's absorbed when the sun bakes out the oil, mildew, and in some cases freezing of the moisture. Eventually, it's cracking teak, and then it's teak that either has to be replaced or splits and breaks. The primary function of teak oil is to prevent water penetration due to sun damage. A by-product is that it makes the teak look newer--at least for a few months. The pigments in Cetol and other finishes prevent the sun damage, and the finish prevents water absorbtion.

Armada is apparently a material similar to Cetol, but gives the teak a darker, almost walnut color. (I once heard there was a trade secret dispute over Armada.) Standard Cetol is a brighter color somewhat similar to varnished, new teak. Cetol light adds a milky shade instead of the "orange" of standard Cetol, a little more like unfinished teak. I suggest trying to see an application of each before choosing--you shouldn't have trouble deciding which one you like. But don't pretend that "natural silver" is good for teak.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

Edited by - on

frich
Captain

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USA
418 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2003 : 07:15:49

Pierre;

welcome to the group, I have extended this offer to others and will offer to you copies of the original owners manual for the 1984 SK.

I too have an 84 and have found these useful, by the way I also have the curtain burner manual.

drop me an e-mail at frich1230@optonline.net and I will send them out.

Frank R
84 C25 SK

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2003 : 08:36:36

I used to be a Cetol guy, but met the owner of Waterlox this past year. I have had no problems with Cetol, however I like the look of Waterlox Marine finish better. The new coat application appears to go on easier and I like the concept of using a penetrating oil as opposed to a top coat product like the Cetol. I will definitely give this a try with my next teak refinishing project.

WWW.waterlox.com

dw

D. Wolff - "The Flying Wasp" #401 sr/sk
Chief Measurer C-25/250 National Assn.
<img src="http://www.flags.com/images/layout/category_images/t_3964.jpg" border=0>

Edited by - on

osmepneo
Past Commodore

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USA
1420 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2003 : 15:15:13

Pierre,

When I bought a cdi-ff4 for osmepneo, I had a new 155 recut ofr the roller furling. As someone else has said that helps the sail roll-up smoothly.

I also echo JB's comment about staying with the c25 for more than 2 years. They are a great little boat that offers years of sailing enjoyment and fellowship with other c25/250 sailors.

Welcome to the family!

Don Peet
c25, 1665, osmepneo, sr/wk
The Great Sacandaga Lake, NY

Edited by - on

pierrem
1st Mate

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64 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2003 : 20:36:16

thanks to all. I plan on removing all of the exterior teak and redong this winter. Already have removed cushions...orignal tan and blue...actually very nice shape...no stains or holes.I will clean with upholsterey cleaner this winter. also have canvas for pop top...looks like it was never used.

I will email for owners manual....Can i tell if it is a tall rig by the hull number?

thanks to all for their input

Edited by - on

oldsalt
Admiral

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USA
578 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2003 : 21:01:26

Pierre, if you decide to remove your exterior teak in order to refinish it, I suggest that you temporarily and tightly plug up all of the screw holes to prevent water intrusion into your cabin top. You don't want rain water or snow melt to find its way into your coach top where it will cause you all sorts of problems.

Good luck with your new boat.

Mark, Silver Girl, '83 fin keel tall rig # 3744

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

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Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 09/29/2003 : 21:57:00

<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote>
...I suggest that you temporarily and tightly plug up all of the screw holes to prevent water intrusion into your cabin top.
Mark, Silver Girl, '83 fin keel tall rig # 3744
<hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote>
Right... All it takes is a little squirt of polysulfide caulk in the outside of the holes, slightly overlapping the outside surface. When it's time to replace the teak, you can easily push the caulk out from the inside.

Dave Bristle - 1985 C-25 #5032 SR-FK-Dinette-Honda "Passage" in SW CT

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