Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I just set my Origo 3000 in the liner tray; it's not gimballed. In the 14 years I have owned a sailboat, I have never had the need to run the stove underway, so the gimbals haven't been used.
Larry Charlot Catalina 25WK Mk. IV #5857 "Quiet Time" Folsom Lake, CA
Here's a photo from the Tech Tips section of the installation that I did on Snickerdoodle many years ago. Unlike Larry, we have uses the stove frequently in the spring and fall when sailing to make coffee or hot chocolate while underway. So, the gimballs are very important to our operation.
BTW: Everything "bolted" together fairly easily and without any special tools.
I mounted my Origo last year after using it just set in the pan for a year. Although I don't expect to use it underway much, I wanted the stove attached to the rest of the boat so it couldn't come adrift in heavy weather.
I found I could not use the brackets provided as part of the Origo gimbal kit; they held the stove too high for the cutting board. So I removed the pan, removed the original gimbal mounts from the pan, and attached the stove to the pan using the nuts, bolts and fiber washer provided in the Origo kit. The stove could be swung far enough to re-attach the pan to the boat. Unfortunately, the only way to get the stove out of its pan now is to unscrew and remove the pan, but the stove will not leave its place accidentally.
HTH
Eric Spitzner, AP (eric@snet.net) Catalina 25 #4445 "Charm" 41°16.18'N 72°54.03'W
Don't know how it didn't get on the previous post??? This photo is a part of the Tech Tips section of the overall Association website. There are lots of neat ideas there.
Havent used an Origo in years, but if I remember the couple I had the base of the unit was square, the Burner cans round, there might have been enough space at the corners to put in a few lead sinkers if you got the gimbals to work. The big problem with gimbaling any conventional stove is the weight of thwe coffee pot aloft gets equal to the weight of the stove below, and---gloppo ! Some stoves have a sort of tray at the bottom which allows for varying the weights, such as divers lead, etc. Fair winds, ron srsk Orion SW FL
I used the `receiver` part of the gimbals from my old Princess stove--they remain bolted to the stainless pan. I bought West Marine`s gimbal set for the Origo and found there was not enough clearance for the arms to work properly with the stainless pan. I did not want to sacrifice the stainless pan (for safety reasons) so I had a metal shop make up two brackets identical to the ones that come in the Origo gimbal set. Each is 8"x 8" square. One inch up from the bottom, the sheet is bent in one quarter inch and then continues (just like the ones in Bill Holcomb`s picture). I drilled a hole in the middle of the top and through that led a 1/2 inch bolt which fits into the old gimbal mounts from the Princess stove. The twin sheets are bolted into the bottom of the stove on each side. It works beautifully, but when underway I have to stow the cutting board, which the rocking stove tends to knock off onto the cabin floor. Cost for the Origo gimbal set: $65. My cost was about $20.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.