Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Anyone ever built anything that would hold a queen/king size air mattress when set on top of the settes in the cabin on my C25?All ideas welcome. I figured a couple pieces of plywood and something to stabilize them underneath to be most compact and comfo
I have a traditional interior and I have it set up for a queen bed. I put small strips of wood molding along the front of each seat attached to the original teak trip. I did this by using the original srew holes for the teak but also added a few more at e
My traditional interior is set up for a double bed as well, but we used two pieces of 3/4 ply between the table (with a new "lip" underneath it) and the port settee. Made a cushion to fit. It may be more to store, but we just lay the cushion and plywood
i used table to fill so nothing to store. had to put strip behind star' seat to get right width, put extra pair of tablbe mounts at right height, and had steel bar 1" with brackets to go over the seat on either side to support aft end of table. only thi
My set-up is similar to Douglas's, but I use 1/4" thick masonite which rests on the teak trim and attached moulding. I remove the long back cushion from the starboard settee and place it ontop of the masonite spanners. This creates a nice firm queen sized
Good subject. I want to do the same thing with my traditional interior. But I have a question. How did you keep the boards from sagging as they span that wide area between the settees?
I went to Home Depot and got 2 12x48 pieces of white shelving(melinite) or something.Hinged them together and 3 pieces of 1" thick dowels.Put rubber door stoppers on the end of the dowel so the wood doesn't mark.They rest under the shelving so there is no
I also used 3/4 x 10" pine boards. I simply used a table saw to cut a 1/4" lip 1-1/2" deep onto each end of each board. This way the lips fit over the teak rails and keep the boards from moving. I then made a wedge shaped cusion that fills the small ga
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.