Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I guess it goes without saying that you should make sure the keel is lowered onto a support!
When I took mine out, I unspooled some slack from the winch, unbolted the stairs, and removed the winch after taking the stairs out. (It is easier to get at the bolts and remove the winch with the standpipe out of the way). Only other precaution is not banging things up.
Reverse the process for re-assembly.
While you're in there, be sure to inspect the turning ball and replace if necessary.. Replace the special (stainless reinforced) rubber hose, and use 2 new stainless hose clamps. I also put some non-adhesive marine sealant around the inside of the hose where it fits over the hull fitting.
Do all this work before putting the winch/stairs back in.
The stairs are a structural support, and are under some compression loads. I had to use a floor jack to lift the cockpit floor a bit to get the stairs back in.
I also intend to refinish my stairs this winter. My desire is to use varnish. However, the crappy old rubber skid plates fell off last year and the unfinished wood has been very slippery, and I know that varnish will make the situation even worse. So, I'd like to make the steps non-skid. Any suggestions on what material to mix with the varnish to acheive this, while not sacrificing the finish or ending up with a bloody sole (triple entendre intended)?
Thanks,
J.B. Manley Antares '85 FK/SR #4849 Grand Lake O' the Cherokees 36°29'58" -94°59'59"
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Any suggestions on what material to mix with the varnish to acheive this, while not sacrificing the finish or ending up with a bloody sole (triple entendre intended)? J.B. Manley <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Defender had a lot of self-stick non-skid products in their catalog, swimming pool people have granules to add to deck paint. How about those peel and stick duckys for the bottom of a bath tub?
The previous owner didn't like the look of the old rubber plates and removed them. Then he simply refinished the stairs with varnish and afterwards carefully put down dark gray, stick-on non-skid strips purchased from Home Depot. He trimmed the corners very well. It looked great for about 4 years, but a couple years ago they started coming up a little, especially on the top step. Re-doing them is on my to-do list, although I don't expect it to be difficult or very expensive.
I'm stunned to hear that the ladder is a structural member in the boat! I was considering modifying the ladder to make enough legroom to create a "captain's chair" with the back against the starboard side, and feet extending into the galley area. Gonna have to rethink that.
I removed the ugly rubber pads on mine and refinished with Cetol (because it handles abuse better than varnish). Then I cut treadmaster non-skid (the fine grade) pads and epoxyed them in place. Works great, lasts forever, and looks awesome.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">What is the small cleat on the port side of the stairs for? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Sorry for the delayed response. Just got back from visiting the very scenic Morro Bay area (camp'n, fish'n, Hearst-castle'n, etc.) and found So. Cal. is burning again...ash everywhere! I assume on my boat, too -- need to wash that off tonight.
Anyway, the rope leads through a couple padeyes to the underside of the big cockpit locker door...cleating the rope locks the door. It works well. A previous owner (San Diego area) did it after someone broke in and stole a bunch of stuff. You can see the repair where the old exterior lock was mounted -- the fiberglass is pretty thin there (both the lid and the side of the cockpit).
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.