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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm new to the forum,new to sailing, and have a (new to me) 83 C25 SR/SK.I am quite impressed by this forum. The forum helped in my decision on which boat to purchase for a 'first boat'. I did get a survey with a few findings as expected. The surveyor pointed out to me that the outboard bracket mounting to the transom shows some play. No leaks,no visible damage, but the outer shell fiberglass will buckle or 'oil can' slightly when you use or shake the outboard(Jonhson 9.9) in a raised position. The inner nuts look fine with no cracks. There is no backing plate on the inner wall. My specific question, after this long intro, is what is in between liner and the exterior surface of the transom? Plywood,?Air?How thick is the inner touter dimension? Do I have wood rot or just need a backing plate to dissipate the force? Thanks in advance. Doug G. 83 SR/SK soon to be renamed Scotty's Cove Grand Lake OK.
Welcome to the forum. My guess is just fiberglass and that you need a backing plate, but others will give you a more informed answer.
Antares was slipped at Scotty's Cove when I bought her a year and a half ago. Now we're slightly North of you at the Masthead Point Sailboat Marina at Port Carlos in Sawmill Hollow. So, I'll look forward to learning your boat's new name and sail number. See you on the lake!
I also have a Johnson 9.9 on my 82. I have ordered some Starboard to make a backing plate inside the boat with and I may even put another on the outside of the boat. I have not recieved my new motor mount yet but I suspect the handle will be very close to the transom and a little stand off wouldn't hurt.
As usual, this topic is right on time! I heartily concur, Doug, this forum is a prime reason for buying & keeping a C25.
I'm experiencing the same engine-induced oilcanning on my '79 TR/SK, and was concerned that there might be a rotted plywood core to deal with. Are we absolutely sure that the transom is all glass on these boats? If so, I'm simply going to reinforce the transom with starboard on the outside & a 1/2" marine plywood backer on the inside.
Thanks Leon. Sorry to hear that I'm going to be dealing with a plywood cored transom, though. Even with the engine removed, the transom is permanently oilcanned, with about a 1/2" indentation at the bottom.
My engine is mounted on the port side, and I wouldn't dream of changing it, even though it's brutally hard to bring my dinette model into proper trim. It is just so darned "ergonomically correct" for me to helm with my left, and control the engine with my right when maneuvering in close quarters.
Can I safely cut out the fuel tank shelf from the lazarette so I can access the transom more easily, or would that weaken the stern structurally?
How about cutting out that weird starboard side "shelf" located way at the back of the aft quarterberth? Would that weaken the stern? Removing it would give me easy access to the boarding ladder, which needs some modifications.
"...Can I safely cut out the fuel tank shelf from the lazarette... "
I put a 6" Beckson screw-in deckplate in the top surface. I cut the hole with a roto-zip and a hole-cutting jig that came with it. About a half-hour job, provides easy access and shouldn't weaken things very much... if at all.
"... How about cutting out that weird starboard side shelf..."
I'd put in another deckplate.
While you're working on the transom, another common upgrade is to install a deck plate in the cockpit... right over the upper rudder gudgeon (mount).
On a stock (early anyway) C25 the upper gudgeon is held a glassed-in and threaded bronze plate... a potential failure point. After installing the cockpit access plate you can drill through the old bronze plate and through-bolt the top gudgeon with proper backing plates inside the hull.
I reinforced my motor-mount area from the outside by bedding 3/4" teak between the motor mount and the transom... the teak is both wider and longer than the bearing area of the mount itself (a Garhauer) This spreads the load and stiffens the entire area.
I finished the teak with Cetol and it adds a nice touch to the transom. (IMHO) This might work well for beefing up your 'oilcanned' situation. (probably lots stronger than new)
Inside the hull, fiberglass backing 'plates' made from the scrap piece generated by the deckplate cutout help spread the load on the inside and are retained with fender washers and locking nuts.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.