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I know I saw it here first but can't find it. I want to put epoxy in some drilled holes. I read before about dipping the screws in wax and letting them set for a bit in the epoxy to form the bite but I can't find/remember time frames...like how long do you let the epoxy set before you put the screws in and how long do you leave the wax-dipped screws in before you take them out? If anyone has this info, it would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Danielle
No one has replied, so I am just trying to be helpful.
I assume the "dipping in wax" is to coat the screw so you can withdraw it later if you need to. If that is the case, I would put on a thin layer and then wipe it off almost completely with a clean, soft rag (thus leaving a very thin coating of wax). Mix the epoxy, dip the screw, and insert it into the hole while the epoxy is still workable (usually ten minutes or so, but it depends on the particular mix). Result (I assume): you now have a screw that is inserted into a leak-proof epoxied hole, but which, thanks to the thin wax layer, you can later remove if you need to.
I'd use the liquid parafin you can get at the hardware store (used to seal board ends). You want to emerse the waxed screw into the epoxy while it's as fluid as possible, or even pour the epoxy around the screw, and then hold the screw in place until the epoxy sets up--not with your fingers! The screw should back right out, and the hole is perfectly threaded for it. Do it with as large a thread as practical.
I've used the method described a few times with either candle wax or parafin (canning wax). I heated the wax in a small tincan on an electric stove (avoid open flames in the presence of large quantities of liquid wax). For small screws, a fat candle might work too, if lit long enough to create a deep enough pool of wax around the wick. You want a thin, very even coating of wax on the threads. The longer you hold the threaded metal fastener in the hot wax, the hotter the metal gets, and the less wax sticks to it. If using thickeners in the epoxy, be careful not to make it so viscous that it won't conform to the coated threads.
Every time I've done it, it worked like a charm. When backing the screw out for the first time, there was a gentle "tick" as it broke loose, and after that, it felt like unscrewing a nylock nut. If in doubt, practice in scrap material.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Antares</i> <br />Okay, for the uninitiated, what is the purpose of all this and what would be an example of its use?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Antares</i> <br />Feel free to have fun with my ignorance, but I still don't understand the where and the why of it. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Epoxy is very brittle when it has cured. If you are filling a void that occupies a location where you must mount hardware then you will need to drill into the epoxy. If the hole isn't a near perfect size you can shatter the epoxy when you thread the screw/bolt in. A pre tapped hole is really cool and makes it less likely that any leakage will occur either.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Antares</i> <br />Feel free to have fun with my ignorance, but I still don't understand the where and the why of it. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> JB: I might use the technique for a small piece of hardware that I can't easily through-bolt, as an alternative to screwing directly into fiberglass and relying on caulk. If something can be thru-bolted, then just overdrill, fill with epoxy, and redrill for the bolt--the threads don't mean much in that case.
I subscribed to the Epoxy Works free magazine and the latest issue had an article about the holding ability of bolts embeded in epoxy. Quite astounding the strength of the material.
I used this method to bolt my mast step to the boat. I tried through bolting and didn't like how it worked out. the bolts came through at an odd angle and the ones that were suppose to go into the post missed their target. It worked just like Leon described and has eliminated any water intrusion into that area. I agree that it has an amazing holding force.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by rclift</i> <br />I used this method to bolt my mast step to the boat. I tried through bolting and didn't like how it worked out. the bolts came through at an odd angle and the ones that were suppose to go into the post missed their target. It worked just like Leon described and has eliminated any water intrusion into that area. I agree that it has an amazing holding force.
I got my halyard plate from Garhauer yesterday and I will use the technique you suggest. Knowing techniques and using them are two different things. Thanks
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.