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Billyboy
1st Mate

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USA
30 Posts

Initially Posted - 11/24/2003 : 23:55:48

Hello Mates,
Committed now to C-25 1985 #4875, and, the reconditioning process begins.
Goodness, is this a sweetheart. No stink, no leaks, no cracks, no dings. Now, on to the electrical. Dangling sound speakers in the cabin...previous owner must havet thought that they knew the value. Wiring still looks sound, cabin lights work...just might, get running and steaming lights going (out now). AC looks to be in place.
Now, I've read the Wing and Casey electrical "gee, don't put your toung to the wires books", but how bout the classic list of "Gee, How Do We Shead a Little Light", on this good old boat?"
Who among you would like to offer the first, top ten things to do for electrical overview?

Ok, I know it is prudent to just suggest the electrical professional,
but, I'm an x-shopteacher, schooled under the direction of Don Herbert, AKA "Mr. Wizard".

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/25/2003 : 00:11:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Billyboy
 Hello Mates,
schooled under the direction of Don Herbert, AKA "Mr. Wizard".
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
I have an autographed picture of Don on my desk!

Edited by - on

aeckhart
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1709 Posts

Response Posted - 11/25/2003 : 09:34:50

Billyboy,

First electrical project may depend if your on an inland lake or not. The Coasties may have something to say about not having running and steaming lights functioning if you're on water they patrol. I'd say that if the achcor light isn't working either, you may find the problem in the deck plug. They have them at Catalina Direct - cheap.

If your planning on cruising, and you don't have one, a second battery is a good second project.

Al
GALLIVANT #5801

Edited by - on

JimB517
Past Commodore

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USA
3285 Posts

Response Posted - 11/25/2003 : 13:15:24

First step : digital VOM. Mine is from Radio Shack. $100. It's overload protected and works on AC, DC and Ohms (resistance). There are cheaper ones but I like mine.

You can't do electrical work without this tool.

Second : crimper, butane soldering gun, liquid electrical tape.

Third : use tinned wires in a saltwater environment.

Be careful with the AC circuits. AC can kill you. 12 volts DC is generally safe.

One of my first projects was to fix the running lights, anchor light and replace the interior lights with halogens (double the light, half the current). I also installed a charger and flexible solar panels, and hooked up my outboards alternator (all needed for extended cruising).

Edited by - on

deastburn
Captain

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USA
334 Posts

Response Posted - 11/25/2003 : 16:08:08

Welcome aboard, Billyboy! While you're here on your next visit, why not join the Association (a mere $20)?

Following, in order of my perceived (IHMO) importance, projects:

1) Make provision for two batteries, and wire them with heavy duty (10 gauge) wire thru an "ON-OFF-BOTH" SWITCH.

2) Wire at least one, preferably two, 12-volt outlets in the cabin, and at least one in the coackpit. I have four total, 2 in and 2 out (GPS, spotlight outside; handheld VHF and computer inside).

3) (More ambitious): replace those by now brittle cabin lights with halogen ceiling lights and spots. Better lighting, lower power consumption (big deal for those of us who spend our lives on moorings and at anchor).

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 11/25/2003 : 16:22:31

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Billyboy
 Hello Mates,
Committed now to C-25 1985 #4875, and, the reconditioning process begins.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

Congratulations, Billyboy!

Welcome to the club.

Edited by - on

ddlyle
Captain

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302 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2003 : 18:13:14

Say Dave ...
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">... 12-volt outlets in the cabin ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
What kind of recepticle uses these 12 volt outlets?
I've thought about using a spotlight(200,000 candlepower) from my car to plug into a cigaret lighter outlet for emergency night visibility on the boat.
Is that the kind of outlet you refer to?
Thanks

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 11/29/2003 : 18:15:56

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by ddlyle
 Say Dave ...
<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">... 12-volt outlets in the cabin ...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
What kind of recepticle uses these 12 volt outlets?
I've thought about using a spotlight(200,000 candlepower) from my car to plug into a cigaret lighter outlet for emergency night visibility on the boat.
Is that the kind of outlet you refer to?
Thanks
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
yep

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 11/30/2003 : 17:09:45

Greetings and welcome Billyboy,

From where do you hail?

Edited by - on

tmhansen
Captain

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USA
397 Posts

Response Posted - 12/03/2003 : 01:33:58

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">1) Make provision for two batteries, and wire them with heavy duty (10 gauge) wire thru an "ON-OFF-BOTH" SWITCH.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I've been wondering about this. Nigel Calder, and West Marine recommend that the starting battery be isolated from the house battery. If I put together a house bank, could I just use a small battery like a motorcyle sized one (deep cycle of course) for starting only. Since the motor is about the same size it seems like it should work. What do you guys think

I have not looked into CCA etc. yet, just thinking.

Edited by - on

matsche
Captain

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USA
280 Posts

Response Posted - 12/03/2003 : 07:38:44

I think the use of an isolated starting battery pertains more to boats with diseal engines than it does the small outboards that we use. Your outboard will start easily with the house battery. I do think it's a good idea to have 2 house batteries if you're using an electric start outboard.

Edited by - on

Raskal
Navigator

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USA
162 Posts

Response Posted - 12/05/2003 : 15:29:35

My hull is pretty close to yours in the production run, #4603. My second battery appears to have been added by the factory in a funky setup where one battery is in its proper place under the starboard settee and the second was hanging out in the open under the port settee. This made for some water hazard to the unprotected battery and took away all that potential storage space under port. I recommend getting both batteries back into their proper battery box (trim the tie-down straps down and screw them into the compartment wall for easier handling). If you're worried about weight distribution make the kids sit to port or don't empty the head holding tank very often...

Rich Kokoska

Edited by - on

dgabel
1st Mate

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USA
75 Posts

Response Posted - 12/05/2003 : 17:33:15

When I bought Walkure, she had one battery in her, the running lights didn't work, the mast connection had been sheared off by someone's clumsy foot, and the electric start Nissan hadn't been hooked up.

Since then, I added a second battery, replaced the 1-2-Both switch with three switches (one for house battery, one for engine start, and one to connect them together in case one discharges completely, and added a battery isolator (got an old unit on sale for half price at West -- it stops either battery from discharging the other, but allows both to charge). I did it that way because of cautions I'd read about using the other kind of switch with an alternator. If you switch those 1-2-Both switches while the engine is running you can blow the alternator diodes, which I do not care to do. I trust myself, but others may not be as aware as I am. I find the three-switch arrangement works fine, and is as convenient as the other setup.

I also bought a deck connector and mast connector at West, and used that to get the mast lights working. This Spring, I'm going to re-wire the mast (the wiring is so brittle that it breaks off in your hand).

I'd ditto what everyone else has said: make sure the wire is tinned and stranded; make sure you have heavy enough wiring; get a VOM that you can use to check continuity and the presence of voltage. In addition, I'd sure try, using wire bundling conduit and cable ties, to make the thing as neat as possible. You need that if you're going to troubleshoot in a couple years. The conduit should also be used where the wiring goes through a tight space where insulation might rub.

Finally, document what you've done. Draw a circuit diagram that has the wires labeled as to color and size, and get wire tags that you can use to label the actual wires where you're likely to need to service them (near the main panel, perhaps on the deck connector). It will make things a lot easier when something goes wrong, as it inevitably will.

Dave Gabel
Walkure
'79 tall rig, fin keel
Sail # 1484

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