Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Does anyone know how much Catalina Direct charges for a replacement pintle? I have one that is bent and needs replacing (or rebending and shaping) and saw this on ebay, but I am not sure if it is the completely right size. If it is not to outrageously expensive, I guess it would be fine to get it from CD. Does anyone know if this one on ebay is the right pintle?
Jared, I replaced both pintles and gudgeons last Fall. The new hardware is much beefier than the originals and you will probably want to replace them as a pair (about $35 for the pair). The new ones also have 3 holes on the upper to accomodate different bolt positions on the 2 rudder types, but as these things go you may still not find the holes to perfectly match what you have. I drilled out the holes a little so that I could use a bigger diameter bolt than the original, which the new pintles can support (use an ordinary drill with titanium bits and a clamp if you don't have a drill press). If you go that route buy the larger bolts at a West Marine or Boatus/Boater's World type store; ordinary hardware store stainless steel won't hold up to salt air/water.
The new gudgeons have hard plastic pintle sleeves which improve the feel and reduce wear on the metal, but replacing the gudgeons is a bigger job that just doing the pintles (see the other string that's going on this).
It looks like I will try to go the route of Catalina Direct and forgo taking the risk of that ebay pintle being the wrong size. I need to get myself one of the CD catalogues. I agree about using a drill press and a good bit. I had a heck of a time trying to do a "quick" fix on the rudder while laying it down on the gravel and redrilling through cheap epoxy with cheap West Marine drill bits (left mine at home that day). I broke the first drill bit in the expoxy when it hit the other side of the pintle (yes I figured I would hit both holes). It was all downhill from there... I only have a few of those West Marine bits left that came with that set after that day.
When I replaced my lower gudgeon a month ago, (with the CD gudgeon) I drilled out for larger bolts and was very surprised at how difficult it was. When I finally got through and mounted the new gudgeon I stood back and it looked a little crooked. I think it probably always was and that is why the original wore so badly. When I got my boat back from the bottom job I put the rudder on and it was definately crooked, not much, but crooked. The rudder swung fine to starboard but did not swing well to port. Anyway I am a science teacher so I took a ringstand home the other day and sure enough it was the exact size of the pintle, I stuck it through to see if I could tweak the gudgeon and it tweaked very nicely and is perfect now. The gudgeon bent much more easily than I expected. So check you alignment and if it is not right tweak the gudgeon, do not try to re-seat the gudgeon
Has anyone tried to use a new pintle with the old gudgeon? My old gudgeons appear to be fine, so I really don't want to mess with them if the ain't broke. They seem to be more of a complicated project (translation - one that I will mess up) and I would probably have to take the boat out of the water to replace them. So if I can go the route of changing only the lower pintle, that is what I would like to do. If anyone else has replaced only the pintle - any suggestions?
Jared, The new pintles should fit in the old gudgeons (always test the fit when the part arrives!). The old gudgeons are kind of thin like the old pintle attachments and as Machopper found out they bend easily. My original pintle straps bent from metal fatigue, which is why I replaced them in the first place.
Replacing the lower gudgeon is pretty straightforward:
1. go into the compartment behind the hatch at the back of your quarterberth. You'll see the ends of the bolts coming through the bronze bar which is epoxied into the wall of the hull. Use some kind of ratchet wrench to undo the nuts. 2. go out to the back of the boat and unscrew the bolts (they are threaded through the bronze and epoxy, at least for my 1984). 3. hold the new gudgeon up against the holes to make sure they match. If not, I suggest filing only the lower middle hole to make a fit (to keep the rudder centered). 4. Clean off the old silicone from the hull. Put some kind of bedding compound on the back of the gudgeon (I suggest marine silicone, which is what the factory used and is superior to 3M 5200 for this application). Squirt some down into the threaded holes. 5. Hold the gudgeon over the holes and screw the bolts into place. Don't over-tighten at this point--leave a millimeter of slack and screw it in tighter when the silicone dries. Go back inside and screw the nuts back in. You're done!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.