Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm looking for ideas to reduce the amp draw from the cabin lights. I have the mini yacht lamp, but it is not sufficient as a reading light. My boat is a 1989 and has festoon bulbs (they look like a fuse with metal ends). Each light fixture has 2 of these 10 watt bulbs drawing a total of about 1.7 amps.
I've looked into halogen bulbs, but I've heard that they are hot (and expensive). Also, I don't think they are made as a festoon bulb. I've seen Xenon light fixtures that draw 20 watts, or about 1.7 amps. But now I'm right back where I started at 1.7 amps with my festoons.
The LED (light emitting diodes) draw hardly any current. However some are very expensive. I'm not sure how much light the smaller ones would provide.
Does anyone have any experience with Xenon or led fixtures, or other ideas that I've not considered?
Tom, I use a Coleman "mantle" lamp that is great to read by. It was given to me so the price was right. Someday I may purchase an "Aladdin Lamp" ( http://www.aladdinkerosenelamps.com/WallsnHanging.asp ) which was one of the first mantle lamps produced back in the 1800's, but can get pricey if purchased new. If you knock around antique stores, you may be able to find a good deal. I try to save amps by not using them. Good Luck. Todd Frye
When completely rewiring my 1979 C-25, I replaced all the camping trailer cabin lights with fixtures intended for marine use. In weighing the trade offs between cost, power consumption, and light output, here are the choices I made:
For that main fixture above the dinette table, I think I chose a Thin-Lites™ surface-mount 12VDC fluorescent with red & white 8w tubes. These aren't the fanciest, most expensive 12VDC fluorescent cabin lights on the market, but then neither are our boats. In white mode, it puts out plenty of light to read a book or chart by. In red mode, it was too bright, so I got an extra red filter sleeve, split it, and slid it over the stock one. That dimmed the red light to an acceptable level.
Above the galley, I installed a round SS & glass dual brightness surface mount fixture with either xenon or halogen bulbs. On low power, it draws 10w, which has been enough to meet almost all lighting needs in that location. On high power with both bulbs lit, it draws 30w, and soon gets hot to the touch. (I have long bangs, but high foreheads beware.) If this could be done with 5w & 10w bulbs, that would be even better.
In the V-berth, I installed an gimball mount brass reading lamp with xenon 10w bulb.
In the head, I replaced the original light directly above the throne with a large diameter round fixture of teak, brass, w/glass lens 25w incandecent from the used parts shelves of the local old time ship's store. While scavenging the junk selection, I also grabbed two smaller round fixtures of teak & brass. I added one under the side deck above the head sink.
The other small teak and brass incandecent unit replaces the stock quarterberth fixture, but has been relocated to the spot between the two access panels under the coaming. It's now controlled by two-way toggle switches, one at each end of the quarterberth.
My thinking here is that the extra cost of the 12VDC fluorescent is justified in the most frequently used location. In the other living areas I don't use the cabin lights for long enough at a time to justify installing really expensive high efficiency fixtures.
If you're determined to have the most energy efficient cabin lights in existance and price be damned, keep an eye on the rapidly expanding selection of LED applications coming on the market.
Thanks, Todd. I looked at link for the Aladdin lanterns. They they look great! I agree with you about saving amps by not using them.
Leon, I hadn't thought about different fixtures for different purposes. I had taken a one-size-fits-all approach. If I have the right light where I need it, I can turn the others off. I'm curiuous about how much current the fluorescent bulb draws.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"> If I have the right light where I need it, I can turn the others off.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">That's the idea, turn off lights your'e not using. Same as parents have been nagging their kids to do since the discovery of fire. By making each fixture bright enough for its assigned task and area, I don't have to turn on additional lights in a futile attempt to see what I'm doing. (However, it is an impressive sight to see the boat at night with all those lights on at once!)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">... curiuous about how much current the fluorescent bulb draws.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">8W/12V=2/3A in either white or red mode. In white mode it really lights up that whole main cabin area.
Another alternative that I am a huge fan of is the AlpenGlow lights.
The best lights on the market are made by AlpenGlow.
I think that the guys name is Bob but he lives in Eureka, MT and he designed a slightly modified flourescent bulb and lens with dual powered lights in either 7 or 9 watts. The 7 watt draws only .4 amps. He also has high output red LEDS that use less then .1 amp. You can get a dual powered combo light with white and red lights for 114 dollars.
Trust me guys, these lights are BRIGHT. He also makes reading lights. The quality is top of the line.
Doug, I have had the thought of using a lamp like that, however, have some reservations. I was worried about the heat generated damaging either the bulkhead or fiberglass above, and also worried that any 'soot' would cause problems as well, Guess just a little paranoid. What fuel is used, camp fuel or alcohol or kerosene??? Clueless, Dan
Since I sail with a deisel engine and kero--- Spelling--- heater I have had no problems with using these types of fuel. The lamps work great. keeping the wick adjusted to the correct hight prevents soot. Using a good quality fuel is important too. You can even use odorless lamp fuel. The heat put off from the metal is almost none. The heat put up the flue or glass is also just enough to keep of a chill.
Doug, I have the mini yacht lamp. It doesn't provide enough light to read or play cards. It provides a warm glow within the cabin that is fine for conversation. Maybe it provides an equivalent of a 5 watt bulb.
Is the lamp you suggest sufficient to light the cabin for reading? It appears to have a larger wick than the mini lamp. Tom
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.