Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I know this one has been run to death, but this is my current project and I don't want to spend any more time and money than necessary.I've read through the all the past posts on bottom jobs, from prep work to paint types and brands. I must be missing som
If blisters are not a concern or issue - hit it with 60 or 80 grit (depending on the tool you use) til smooth (or not) and recoat it with something compatible. Steve Madsen #2428 OJ(Ode to Joy)
If it is a soft paint, you can only go over it with soft paint. Try to get an idea of what kind it is because the paint you put on must be compatible with the old coating or the whole ting will fail. Vinyls and epoxies don't mix, for example.
Most bottom paints have a very short life out of the water. When exposed to air they lose their anti-fouling ability. You can prep the bottom and get ready to paint anytime, but for the actual application of the paint
There are bottom paints made where they do not specify a maximum time to launch (ie unlimited). I plan on applying one of these over an epoxy barrier coat.
I have used a West Marine bottom sheild on both my Catalina 22 and 25 with good results in the warm waters of Lake Erie. With the bottom pressure washed at pull-out, one coat in the spring keeps the bottom clear for the season (about 5 - 6 months in the
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.