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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I think Sail Mag. just did an article on how someone used the teak/holly plywood Doug refers to. But it suggested using a base (MDA?) between the floor and the plywood, which would reduce the already limited head room in a C25. An inch or so reduction isn't much, but it's too much for me when I'm ducking already.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by RichardG</i> <br />I think Sail Mag. just did an article on how someone used the teak/holly plywood Doug refers to. But it suggested using a base (MDA?) between the floor and the plywood, which would reduce the already limited head room in a C25. An inch or so reduction isn't much, but it's too much for me when I'm ducking already. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Richard -
The article in Sail was referring to MDO -- I've heard of MDF but not MDO. After reading the article and looking into some options, I am considering using just the teak and holly plywood straight to the fiberglass. He sites the uneven-ness of the floor, however I think with the exception of the forward berth and head our sole is pretty darn flat (maybe off a bit by the galley?. He also used 1/2 inch MDO, I think you could get by with 1/4 if you had to use it. Does anyone else have any thoughts on this?
parkay cedar closet/sauna planks vinyl spray paint a collage of classic Playboy centerfolds under urathane I think a sheet of balsa core that was thin (1/4") and glassed over with clear epoxy would look awsome.
My 1984 #4603 is one of those traditional interiors where the sole has the raised area to port for the dinette option. I got tired of nearly spraining an ankle on it and when I looked under the bilge board found that the liner sole is raised high enough that it should be possible to lay down an even floor in a couple of ways:
--cut away the whole fiberglass cabin (not head) sole to the settee/galley walls and lay down a flat sole supported by stringers attached to them;
--cut away the raised section to port and use the remaining starboard part to support the wood panel;
--use the raised port section as support and fill the lower sections (galley and starboard walkway) with stringers (least headroom option).
The cause for optimism here is that cutting away the whole sole (even including the head area) and running a new wooden sole supported on stringers and attached to the vertical fiberglass parts looks like it should maintain the structural integrity of the inner liner (the quarterberth is a big support structure).
Check the archives, I vaguely remember a very handy individual posting his flooring project just as discribed above. I believe he was from Maine or at least along the northeast coast. I believe he posted as Captain something.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.