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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I recommed you find a copy of a book called Sail Power by Wallace Ross. It was kind of a sail handling bible when I was new to this. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> It was my bible as well
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Leon Sisson</i> <br />I rebuilt my stock Catalina traveler car with general purpose ballbearing sheaves.
Although the Harken #160 sheaves appear to be readily available online, I was only able to find the Harken #277 sheaves through the [url="www.harken.com"]Harken Store[/url]. Everything's reasonably priced, including double micro blocks for 4:1 outhauls.
I'm glad you were able to find the Harken parts. I did my traveler rebuild so long ago that I have no idea where I got parts from.
Frequently, if you know a part exists, but don't know where to get it in retail quantities, [url="http://www.defender.com/welcome2.html"]Defender Industries[/url], (800)628-8225, can find it for you, quote you a reasonable price, and have it shipped to your door. They're good folks to do business with. They're much smaller than West Marine for now, but their prices and customer service help keep WM honest. I try to give them my mail orders when it's practical to do so.
I hope my brief description of the traveler rebuild procedure was enough to go on. Please let us know how it works out!
JB I ordered them both from the Harken Store and found some spinnaker cheek blocks on sale plus a nice shirt for my son. There are always good clearance items there to make the sting of any retail prices more bearable. I am anxious for min to come, it will be something I can do while the tarp is still on.
(3) #10-24x1-1/2" machine screws with self locking nuts,
misc. flat washers, lock washers, etc. as needed to fit.
I ground the peened ends off the stock rivets and drove them out with a punch. Don't loose any tiny parts! The rivets were replaced with the #10 machine screws.
-- Leon Sisson <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
OK Leon, I need help.
exhibit 1, crappy no travel car
exhibit 2, 2x160 sheaves and 2x277 sheaves compared to stock sheaves.
exhibit 3, 277s go where?
exhibit 4, where is the room for the bar?
Do you intend the 277s to be the lower bar sheaves? they are very narrow. There are 5 sheaves total, three smaller ones running below and above the bar, and two very slightly larger ones for the traveler line. Did you mean to say 3 160s? If so then I do not think the bar will have room. I also think the line will run free'r with the 160s because of their diameter. I am confused. You are the guru, help me see the light.
When I first got my 1979 C-25, the traveler car was so far gone that there were no sheaves left at all -- only the stainless steel bushings they used to turn on.
The original parts list I posted was from my notes based on an old C-25/250 BBS message dated 4/21/2001 by <b>Dave Laux</b> (<i>a boat repair wizard whom we haven't heard from here in years</i>), who said it worked for him. I made some changes to his parts list, because there was stuff on it that made no sense to me. Specifically, "(1) Scheafer #62-214, which is a Delrin ball bearing sheave, <b>1-1/16"O.D., 3/16"I.D., 1/2" thick</b>, for 5/16" max. line size". That might be the missing 5th wheel, depending on vertical clearances. I don't think I ordered that part, so I can't just dig it out and see if it fits.
When I rebuilt my traveler car, Dave's posted instructions were probably combined with my own head scratching at the time. The result does indeed work fine. I just now went out to the boat and took a close look at the way my traveler car is put together now. Here is my slightly amended parts list:
(2) #10-24x1-1/2" machine screws with self locking nuts,
(1) 1/4-NCx1-1/4" machine screw with self locking nut,
misc. flat washers, lock washers, etc. as needed to fit.
I ground the peened ends off the stock rivets and drove them out with a punch. The rivets were replaced with the three machine screws.
The 1/2" wide Harken #160s ride on the underside of the traveler bar -- those are your monorail wheels. The Harken #277s are for the 3/16" 2:1 traveler control lines, and are held by the same #10-NC machine screws as the Harken #160s. Where the mainsheet shackle attaches to the top hole in the traveler car, I have only a stainless steel bushing around the 1/4" bolt -- no sheave.
And as for "<i>You are the guru, help me see the light.</i>", if that's the case you're worse trouble than you know!
I hope this helps. I'm sorry for any confusion I've caused. Let me know if you have any more questions or problems. You're welcome to call me anytime at (321)784-8406 for help sorting this out.
I have ordered three more of the larger 160s. Because the 277s have such a small id I do not see any benefit to using them anywhere. I think the larger diameter 160s for the control line can only help. I will try it with the bushing only at the top as in my picture. Worst case, I have two extra 277s and an extra 160. Life is good.
My won't-travel-car has the bail bolted through the top like Frank's, but no sheave like Leon's. Two sheaves under the rail, but no outside sheaves for the control lines; always thought it was strange for Catalina to design such a high friction component. So, I, like Frank, originally interpreted Leon's instructions as to place the larger 160's under the bar and the smaller 277s above the bar. Of course, I hadn't even bothered to dig out my won't-travel-car before placing my sheaves order. Thanks, you two, for straightening this all out! Although, it seems like a shame to spend all this intellectual capital, money and labor to make a screamin' traveller car that's only travelling 36".
So, I think this spring I'll try clamping an 8' traveller bar across the stern pulpit rails in front of the backstays. You know, just for fun!
I'll let you know if it works or not, if I figure it out and survive.
OK, here's the deal, Four Harken 160s for the bar and lines and one harken 277 for the top of the bar.
Rolls very nice, I need some washers for spacers on the 277 but other than that it's done. ...and I have an extra 160 and an extra 277, as everyone should!
Now that Frank has finished the traveler and included pictures, I think that it should be written up and submitted for a Tech Tip or Mainsheet submission so we don't have to search the forum when this inevitably comes up again.
Thanks to all for the info...it's been added to my list.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dlucier</i> <br />Now that Frank has finished the traveler and included pictures, I think that it should be written up and submitted for a Tech Tip or Mainsheet submission so we don't have to search the forum when this inevitably comes up again.
Thanks to all for the info...it's been added to my list. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.