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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
RE: Running the power line through the transom for the outboard. The old Honda's wire was just ran throug a sealed hole. Hoping to do it a little better this time. I'm looking at the little 2 prong, chromed bronze water tight plugs. Is there any problem with cutting the charge/ start wiring and putting a plug connection on the transom?
Doug <blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Running the power line through the transom for the outboard. The old Honda's wire just ran through a sealed hole... I'm looking at the little 2 prong, chromed bronze water tight plugs. Is there any problem with cutting the charge/start wiring and putting a plug connection on the transom?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">I looked into installing some sort of thru-transom electrical connector for the electric starter (&charging) battery cables on my outboard. The ones for big electric trolling motors look like they might work. I finally ended up with a hole high in the transom big enough to pass the wire ends to threaded terminal posts inside the boat. I have trouble imagining a reasonably priced, easy to use, connector that would remain reliable after being splashed by, and occasionally submerged in, sea water. My Yamaha has no recoil rope starter, so I am very dependent on the electric starter if I need to get the motor running quickly.
Electrically, there's no reason not to cut the charging leads to install a polarized connector. The trick is to do so without reducing the reliability of the charging system and electric starter. Keep in mind that just like wire sizes, every electrical connector is rated for some maximum amount of current. A small outboard alternator puts out maybe 5 to 15 amps. An electric starter for that same motor might draw 50 to 100 amps. So a connector that would be OK for a rope start motor might not be up to the task of powering a starter motor. When an overloaded connector (or wire) fails, the consequences can be spectacularly unpleasant. I firmly believe that it's important to have a safety disconnect in the electric starter circuit. I use a high-current key operated SPST switch mounted in a protected location, but still within easy reach of a person operating the motor.
I agree with Leon on the need to keep electrical connections in protected areas of the boat.
As examples, my old dockside power inlet was a corroded mess, the socket of a no longer used external power point on the cockpit coaming had a nice layer of green on it, and my mast light plug, well...let's just say its high on the list for replacement.
I have come to the conclusion that any electrical wiring connection on a boat, inside or outside, is subject to eventual corrosion. The problem with a corroded connection is that as resistance across the connection increases, more and more electrical power is being wasted as heat due to the resistance, up to the point where the circuit fails completely. Small sailboats like ours, with outboard motors, generally don't have a whole lot of charging or storage capacity, and wasting any of it on corroded electrical connectors is a bad idea. Anyway, I would recommend that you not use a connector in the transom for battery wiring to the outboard. A lot of power runs through there when the starter motor is cranking. Also, all wiring connections outside the cabin, especially those subject to salt-water spray like the outboard motor wiring, should be thoroughly tinned with solder, or better yet, use pre-tinned Marine grade wire.
Here's another LOUD vote for not putting the connection outside--especially in a saltwater environment! The new Honda O/Bs don't even have removable external connections--the cable is hardwired inside the cowl. Give what happened to my old one, it's a good idea. I run my cable through a boot covering a hole in the transom, and connect the O-connectors to two studs I mounted toward the back of the quarterberth. But then I only connect/disconnect once a season.
Sounds like I'll just run the wire through the hole in the tramsom and wire it up. Sure makes it a pain to the the engine off if I need to. How have you sealed the hole in the transom?
Doug, I installed a Marinco connector made for trolling motors. I don't remember the amperage rating, but it's worked fine for my Nissan 8 hp outboard w/ electric start & charger. It solves the problem of needing to seal where the cable goes through and makes removing the outboard a lot easier. The receptical has an o-ring seal built in and a cap for when the motor's not plugged in. I picked it up at a Bass Pro Shop.
I mounted the receptacle inside the cockpit of my 250 where it doesn't get splashed (don't have a picture of it). Here's a close-up of the plug. It's a twist-lock design, keyed so it will only plug in one way.
I don't think there's a problem with the external connectors.. as long as they are full-on saltwater marine grade, adequately sized, and are regularly maintained. I think with a regular unplug/clean/lubricate cycle (monthly?) they will do ok. If neglected, you're in for trouble.
I'd use an "o-ring" protected connection like this...
Oscar, That's the set up I was pondering. Mine would be on the transom though. I'm more worried about rain leaks than salt water. Did you use silicon or something to seal the hole?
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.