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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Removal of boom end cap

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jmeadows
1st Mate

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52 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/29/2004 : 10:45:43

I'm having a devil of a time trying to remove the end cap to my boom. I have removed the two set screws and it just will not budge I worry about putting to much pressure on it. What I'm looking for is a description of how the boom and end cap are joined.

My problem is the screw that holds the main sheet bracket to the boom is lose and just keeps turning freely when I try to tighten.

Also just ordered a new foot loose main, is there anything I should know with regard to attaching the clew to the boom.

Jim Meadows
"Aloha Friday" (for sale) Sold
1989 Tall Rig - WK
Lake Pleasant, AZ

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 02/29/2004 : 10:58:40

I haven't heard of this problem. The two screws are the only fasteners I've ever encountered. Maybe this is the first time it's been removed and there are burrs holding it? Have you tried placing a block of wood against the end cap and tapping it with a hammer? In the event a PO epoxied it in place you could heat the end cap (not the boom itself) with a blow torch.

Edited by - OJ on 02/29/2004 11:00:01

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 02/29/2004 : 11:22:53

Jim wrote...
"My problem is the screw that holds the main sheet bracket to the boom is lose and just keeps turning freely when I try to tighten."

Clam asks... Are you talking about the stainless steel "tang" (metal strip) that is screwed to the end of the boom? I believe that's SUPPOSED to be loose enough to rotate. That allows the tang to stay aligned with the mainsheet so the boom doesn't get a twisting force when sheeted out. (At least it was so on my Venture, I've always assumed the C25 is the same).

Edited by - on

jmeadows
1st Mate

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52 Posts

Response Posted - 02/29/2004 : 11:34:09

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by ClamBeach

I believe that's SUPPOSED to be loose enough to rotate. That allows the tang to stay aligned with the mainsheet so the boom doesn't get a twisting force when sheeted out.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

You know you might be right, that makes sense. I never noticed it before, but was on the boat checking the rigging yesterday.

Maybe someone else can confirm?

Edited by - jmeadows on 02/29/2004 11:53:44

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 02/29/2004 : 12:23:03

Bruce is right, Jim. The mainsheet tang is supposed to rotate freely. Others have commented that the nut eventually dropped off on their boat, and they ended up replacing the tang by attaching a bail to the end of the boom. However, my 1985's original tang is still attached with no problem.

Edited by - on

PZell
Admiral

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USA
548 Posts

Response Posted - 02/29/2004 : 13:14:35

Which brings us back to the problem of getting the end cap off if
you want to. My caps are completely frozen on and the screws won't budge without stipping. I finally gave up for another day. However,
a neighbor with a CAT-25 had the same problem and she (doesn't that
irk you guys) solved it very simply. She just sawed off the screw
heads and then with a little muscle punched the screw threads thru
to the inside of boom with a nail punch. Some work with a mallet and the cap came off.

Edited by - on

Leon Sisson
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1893 Posts

Response Posted - 02/29/2004 : 13:22:00

Jim, the others are correct about the bolt needing to be loose. I think there's a nylock nut on it inside the boom. When I had mine apart, I added a jamb nut against the nylock. It would really suck if that fell apart going down wind in heavy air.

As for getting the cap out of the boom, the only fasteners are the obvious screws around the end of the boom. If the boat has been in a salty environment, there could be corrosion between the two parts. You might try letting penetrating oil soak in for a few days, and then apply gentle heat with a propane torch. The suggestion of tapping it with a block of wood is a good one too.

By the way, I suggest you resist any temptation to put a split lockwasher directly under the bolt head or nut. That could act as a ratchet, tighening the threads. If you'd like to add a split washer to quiet any rattling, sandwich it between two flat washers so it can't get a grip on the bolt, nut, or aluminum.

-- Leon Sisson

Edited by - on

LeighMarie
Navigator

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USA
188 Posts

Response Posted - 02/29/2004 : 16:16:02

Jim, if this is any help, I currently have both end caps off in my basement and on my 1985 it is just the 2 screws that are holding them on. Once the screws were removed they slid off with no problem. Hopefully this will confirm that at least this is the way it is supposed to be. I have the "tang" on the aft end cap and it swivels with no problem.

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cshaw
Captain

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USA
460 Posts

Response Posted - 02/29/2004 : 22:43:11

Jim,

I use a loose footed main and love it. I think the secret is to get a "slug" that fits in the slot on the boom correctly (mine has a slug about 3 inches long to help distribute the load and still be able to slide inside the slot. I use a 3:1 purchase on the outhaul, and have a small line running "forward" from the clew so when I want to bag up the main I can release the outhaul and pull on the small line ""in haul"?). I figure the camber ratio on my main can be varied from about 11:1 to 4:1.... Confetti actually sails OK under main alone with the main bagged out to about 4 or 5 to 1!

(I wonder if there is a racing rule on how much you can ease off the outhaul??)

The other skippers have given you good advice on keeping the bolt holding the tang "loose"

Chuck

Edited by - on

jmeadows
1st Mate

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52 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 09:20:47

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by cshaw
 Jim,

I think the secret is to get a "slug" that fits in the slot on the boom correctly (mine has a slug about 3 inches long to help distribute the load and still be able to slide inside the slot.

Chuck

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
As alway you guys are a big help.
One question Chuck, where did you get the 3" slug, I assume the sail does not come with any at that location?

PS. I just added something cool to my boat. I'm in construction and one of my subs had some thin polished granite counter top which he was not going to use. He recut it for me and it looks great on the boat, maybe only added 25 lbs. but hey I don't race.
Jim

Edited by - jmeadows on 03/01/2004 09:35:54

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 12:22:56

My new loose footed Ullman from CD came with the slug.

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dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 12:34:04

As did my UK Sailmakers loose footed main.

Edited by - on

gnorgan
Admiral

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USA
563 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 21:26:38

...and my Ullman main from Ventura also came with a slug.
...and the tang on the boom of our 89 is also loose.

Edited by - on

oldsalt
Admiral

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USA
578 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 21:35:05

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 As did my UK Sailmakers loose footed main.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

As did mine as well.

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cshaw
Captain

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USA
460 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2004 : 19:11:43

[/quote]
One question Chuck, where did you get the 3" slug, I assume the sail does not come with any at that location?
[/quote]

Since I made my own main, I just ended up buying it from Bainbridge. However if you order a loosefooted main it should come with one like the other skippers reported (be sure you tell your sailmaker the size of the boom slot). If you are converting a sail to loosefooted, I bet most sailmakers have them in stock (just too popular an option these days!!!)

Have fun!

Chuck

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2004 : 20:06:33

They're also available at [url="www.sailrite.com"]SailRite[/url]for less than $10.

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