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Restoring Fiberglass Luster.....

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Blueye
1st Mate

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USA
26 Posts

Initially Posted - 02/28/2004 : 10:02:07

This year I am set on restoring my 1981 fiberglass hull to a brilliant sheen. I understand it pits over the years which causes the dullness, but every year I have to bust my @#$! to get a temporary glossy finsh. I primarily use over the counter rubbing compounds, cleaners and wax with a buffer.

What is the BEST Product(s) or process to restore fiberglass

Tir A L'ARC #2267

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2004 : 11:07:14

I used 3M heavy-duty fiberglass cleaner/restorer... then followed with a good polymer wax. (I used Zaino) Polymer waxes actually form a full coating over the surface that will last a full season. Very different stuff from the conventional waxes that most folks use on their cars.

The above treatments (or similar) are available in various kits.. usually $50-$60. I think one that folks here have used and recommended is called "Poly-glow"

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2004 : 11:28:37

One of my first posts to the site was because of my excitement over a product called Vertglass from Lovett Marine http://www.lovettmarine.com/. My '82 was so oxidized I thought I had bought a white hulled boat, I went after it with Softscrub with bleach first because it was so far gone. By then the kit came with the Vertglass. My efforts with the Softscrub meant the first step of the kit was pretty much a non-event so a person should probably just skip the softscrub and simply use the Vertglass #1 oxidation remover. The Vertglass PH wash was impressive and then the Vetglass coating itself was amazing. I have a camel colored hull! We soda blasted our bottom paint off this winter and some of the blast got to the topsides, I am actually excited for warmer weather so we can put another coat of Vertglass on. The actual restorer goes on like mop'n glow, no effort at all, it is a coating, and a treatment, not a wax. Reapplying each spring will take an hour or two to do right and will require no effort other than washing the boat and wiping the Vertglass on. I am sold on this product. That being said, I am sure that similar products are chemically identical and just as easy to use. Bottom line is, I can't imagine why anyone would wax any more, its harder to do and doesn't work as well.

edit:
This is a shot of my hull reflecting my garage after I brought the boat home for the winter. Note the dark blue of the boot stripe, it was the light blue color of the bottom paint before being restored!

Edited by - Frank Hopper on 02/28/2004 12:14:18

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 02/28/2004 : 11:33:55

Blueye,

Well you've come to the right place on this one. I also have a 1981 - what's your hull number?

To be technically correct, the surface you are referring to is gelcoat. You're on the right track. While restoring the finish on my Catalina 22 I bit the bullet and (after returning three underpowered units) purchased a commercial grade polisher by Milwaukee. After purchasing my C25 I couldn't imagine attempting this job without a polisher.

I've also tried several different products and found No. 7 Rubbing Compound and No. 7 Polishing Compound give the best results when used with power equipment. Of course you'll want to polish any edges by hand.

So far, the best wax (which is applied and removed by hand) I've used is Collinite's No. 870, Special Heavy Duty Fleetwax for Marine and Aeronautical Finishes. Besides a great looking finish, I found it repels lake matter better than any other.

I'm certainly not discounting any of the products listed above, I just haven't used them.

Good luck!

Edited by - OJ on 02/28/2004 11:43:38

joegeiger
1st Mate

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USA
63 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 10:30:39

I am in the process of restoring my hull too. I am using a medium oxidation rubbing compound (No. 7). My hull has green stripes that are light green due to the oxidation. I found that the rubbing compound does work but it takes 2 or 3 applications plus buffing it with a coat of wax to bring it back to its original luster.

I have a 10" orbital buffer but found that it just grinds the oxidation back into the hull. I have been applying the rubbing compound by hand and removing it with the clean part of the cloth. What technique are you using to get the rubbing compound to work with the buffer? Do you change the pads frequently? It would save me so much time if I could use the buffer for both the rubbing compound and the wax. Any help would be appreciated.

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Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 12:25:03

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by joegeiger
 I am in the process of restoring my hull too. I am using a medium oxidation rubbing compound (No. 7). My hull has green stripes that are light green due to the oxidation. I found that the rubbing compound does work but it takes 2 or 3 applications plus buffing it with a coat of wax to bring it back to its original luster.

I have a 10" orbital buffer but found that it just grinds the oxidation back into the hull. I have been applying the rubbing compound by hand and removing it with the clean part of the cloth. What technique are you using to get the rubbing compound to work with the buffer? Do you change the pads frequently? It would save me so much time if I could use the buffer for both the rubbing compound and the wax. Any help would be appreciated.

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
This is the point of restorers. You just wipe them on and the color is back!!

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OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 13:21:49

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by joegeiger
 I found that the rubbing compound does work but it takes 2 or 3 applications plus buffing it with a coat of wax to bring it back to its original luster.

The initial restoration is certainly the toughest and may take more than one application of rubbing compound followed by polishing compound followed by wax. Actually, once you've restored the finish you can probably get away with just applying wax each spring.

I have a 10" orbital buffer but found that it just grinds the oxidation back into the hull. I have been applying the rubbing compound by hand and removing it with the clean part of the cloth. What technique are you using to get the rubbing compound to work with the buffer? Do you change the pads frequently? It would save me so much time if I could use the buffer for both the rubbing compound and the wax. Any help would be appreciated.

To be honest, I haven't seen an "orbtial buffer" yet that has the power for this task. My polisher is rated at 11 FLA. I just guide it back and forth gently against the hull and let it do all the work. I have accumulated 10 or 11 pads (lambswool) over the past few years . . . I grew weary of retreating to the laundry tub every ten minutes for rinsing. I fill-up about 5 pads on each side and can polish the entire hull in about 90 minutes. As stated above, it took some trial and error to find the best compounds that work effectively with a polisher. I haven't discovered a wax that works well with a polisher - but the Collinite (liquid, not the paste!) is pretty easy to work with.
It takes some practice and perseverance to achieve the desired results.
Good luck!
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

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LOREN SOUERS
Navigator

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USA
100 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 16:01:44

I cleaned my hull very well last spring and used Polyglow. The Polyglow is a lot easier than all the rubbing and waxing. You put a lot of coats of the stuff on and it builds up slowly. After about 2 coats, the Admiral said to me, "Hey, this stuff is just "Mop-n-Glo" packaged for boaters. As it is a lot more expensive that MopnGlo, you might think about this.

Loren Souers, Skipper
Nimue, the Lady of the Lake

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TomA
1st Mate

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USA
91 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 19:54:15

Is Polyglow also for the topsides where there is no nonskid? Or, is it best used on the hull only? Thanks!
Tom

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NuNees
Navigator

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USA
125 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 21:11:44

I used PolyGlow last spring ... easy is as it has been said ... I have buffed and polished a number of autos ... was ready to do that same Dupont #7 and commercial buffer trick to my '85 ... but instead I tried PolyGlow ... 12 months and it still looks good ... I'll wash it and one coat of touchup ... IMHO Buffing Is B S. Pop for the Polyglow and go sailing ... $60 will get you on the water two weeks sooner.

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atgep
Master Marine Consultant

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1009 Posts

Response Posted - 03/01/2004 : 22:14:19

And lets not forget the fact that Poly glow leaves that stuff called gel-coat on the boat. Nothing like throwing away your gel-coat in used rags! One kit wil give me 2 seasons worth of beauty and the time to use it. Long live Poly glow!!!!!!!!!!

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Blueye
1st Mate

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USA
26 Posts

Response Posted - 03/02/2004 : 20:43:09

You guys are great!! Good info at great price!! I'm going with the #7 3M Comppound to clean the stains/oxidation and follow with Poly Glow!!

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