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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

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Trailer Brake

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ppetracca
Navigator

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USA
163 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/05/2004 : 20:17:49

Someone take a look please...

I purchased this Trail-Rite trailer for Yankee Spirit. I know that this is the emergency brake actuator in case of separation from the vehicle. (The cabe was missing when I bought it, but I've added one).

My question...the two pieces of metal that extend vertically in front of the arm appear to be pinched together, preventing the actuator from going forward. Is this normal? In the event of a separation, am I to assume the force of the trailer would pull the lever through these metal extensions?

My other Trail-Rite I had for my '22 was set up differently. The actuator cable went into the surge-brake assembly and there was a thin metal flap that held it down until needed.

Someone let me know if theirs is set up the same way.

Thanks.

Edited by - on

OJ
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
4382 Posts

Response Posted - 03/05/2004 : 20:52:03

Patrick,

Mine's the same and yes these keep the lever from being engaged inadvertently . . .

Edited by - OJ on 03/05/2004 20:53:13

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2004 : 11:09:01

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by OJ
 Patrick,

Mine's the same and yes these keep the lever from being engaged inadvertently . . .
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Ditto, they will open up if they need too. I ordered the complete rebuild kit from Champion. I would have ordered a complete new one but as you have now discovered the casing is welded to the frame instead of being bolted as it is designed to be. Hence you must rebuild the Dico-10. I ordered a new master cylinder, new shocks, ... everything but that emergency handle in your picture. It took about an hour to disassemble and reassemble. This was one of my first projects and I did no real photo documentation. Most of what I did, and arguable should be done to any trailer as old as our's, is here;

http://homepage.mac.com/fhopper/PhotoAlbum24.html

Edited by - on

Waterboy
Navigator

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USA
204 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2004 : 11:57:19

FHopper,

You're my new hero. I need to rebuild or do serious maintenance on most every aspect of my trailer, including, I'm 'fraid, an entire new brake system. As soon as I've done a bit more homework, I'll be soliciting advice. One question for now; did you concern yourself with rust on the trailer? Your fenders and springs looked rusty, and I wondered if that type of thing was worth addressing. My galvanized trailer has many rusty, non-galvanized bolts holding it together, and many of the welds appear to have surficial rust. I saw some 'spray on galvanizing' at Home Depot the othre day. Hrmmmmm ....

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2004 : 14:28:38

Waterboy... start browsing the product index at http://www.championtrailers.com

Edited by - on

Waterboy
Navigator

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USA
204 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2004 : 21:32:48

Thanks! I'll add it to the list.

rebuild brakes ... revive gelcoat ... properly prop and tune outboard (alternator) ... design 200 aH electrical system ... communications ... navigation ... rigging ... oh yeah the head (First Mate doesn't like the bucket/bag/horseshoe idea).

I should re-read "Sensible Cruising" so I keep all this in perspective and remember Why I'm doing all these little projects. Fun 'tho; today I begged a free 55 gal drum from a marine shop and turned it into a tank in which to test/tune small outboards. I'll be setting up a rinkydink web page fer postin' pics where I ask "Hey guys what do I do with this?" soon enough.

Don't let me forget to go sailing one of these days!

Edited by - on

John V.
Admiral

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USA
559 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2004 : 23:00:13

I found that the things that could rattle and shake if not bolted down well were the things that suffered metal fatigue. I have had to replace all four fender supports because the center support for the fenders was loose. I thought this wouldn't matter much since it was not structural. but when one let go it tore into a tire and shredded it. So yes take a good look at loose or rusted bolts. Every little part of a trailer is important.

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2004 : 23:17:54

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Waterboy
 Your fenders and springs looked rusty...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Rust? That thar's salt encrusted teak.

BTW, Frank, what exactly does the note on your billboard, "Trouser Leak", mean, anyway?

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/06/2004 : 23:56:49

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Antares
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Waterboy
 Your fenders and springs looked rusty...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Rust? That thar's salt encrusted teak.

BTW, Frank, what exactly does the note on your billboard, "Trouser Leak", mean, anyway?

<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

TRANSOM TRANSOM. I have two leaks that are a problem, a small leak around the transom area that runs down the Cockpit sole liner and drips on the middle of the quarter berth, and a honken leak in the bow that puts an amazing amount of water under the V-Berth at the to-hull sea-cock. It has to be the anchor locker, nowhere else could capture the amount of water that is being found under the berth. But I cannot see what ever is the actual point of leakage. It depresses me.

Edited by - on

Mark Loyacano
Navigator

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USA
247 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2004 : 00:08:21

The water drain tube in the anchor locker passes through the hull liner and then the hull. Often, the leak is between the liner and the hull because the tube is not sufficiently sealed.

If you want to find a leak anywhere else, draw a wide ring around the liner with chalk. Next time it rains (or you use a hose) look for where the chalk has washed away.

Edited by - Mark Loyacano on 03/07/2004 00:10:06

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2004 : 00:19:30

The other thing that I noticed when shopping for Antares was that many older C25s had the bow light wiring dropping down through the floor of the anchor locker, into and through the forepeak locker (open access to the V-berth locker). The pass-through holes were generally filled with an hour glass gasket (sorry, don't know the real name) [DUH, das BOOT!] with silicone surrounding the wires, and every boat I looked at with that configuration had substantial amounts of water in the V-berth locker.

My '85 has the bow light wiring following the hull to deck seam back to the aft portion of the anchor locker and then along the V-Berth hull to deck seam bundled with the cabin lights. Also, my forepeak locker is a solid, enclosed space; no access to the V-berth locker below.

Edited by - Sea Trac on 03/13/2004 17:27:31

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

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Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2004 : 01:00:43

Another source of leaks up forward is the bow eye.

When I bought my boat the bow eye wood backing plate was completely rotted from all the water that was coming in through the eye.

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 03/07/2004 : 01:05:45

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by dlucier
 ...the bow eye wood backing plate...<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Another pre-1985 improvement, as mine is metal.

Edited by - on

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