Association Forum - Starter cable for Nissan 9.8 ob

Assn Members Area · Join

Home.

Association Forum

Ships Store

Cruising

Racing

Technical Tips

Photo Gallery - New

Boat Search - Updated

Manuals & Brochures

Swap Meet

Links

Officer Flag Line & Staff

Bylaws & Constitution

Members Area

Join the Association

Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.

Association Forum

Username:	Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?

All Forums

Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

General Sailing Forum

Starter cable for Nissan 9.8 ob

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Author

Topic

osmepneo
Past Commodore

Member Avatar

USA
1420 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/12/2004 : 15:55:08

My new Nissan 9.8 electric start ob comes with about six feet of cable to connect the motor to the battery. I suspect the distance between the ob (port side) and the battery (starboard under the settee) is about 20 feet. Any suggestions on providing power to the engine so that I can use the electric start?

I see several alternatives:

1. Lengthen the cables, cutting off the battery connector and splicing in a section of cable, and splicing the battery connectors to the other end.

2. Install a second battery, in the quarter birth area, running the cable there, and then running additional cables to the existing battery.

How have others addressed this situation?

Don Peet, C25/250 2004-2005 National Association Commodore
The Great Sacandaga Lake, NY

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2004 : 16:52:43

I have an internal cable that is run from the back of my Battery switch in the galley along the hull to two long brass studs that protrude both in the sail locker and through to the fuel locker. They each have four nuts, two to position the stud from both sides of the fiberglass and one for each side to hold the cable on. That internal cable is connected to the posts in the sail locker, the engine cable is run through my scupper and connects to the posts in the fuel locker. It is easy to connect.

Edited by - on

dlucier
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Virgin Islands (United Kingdom)
7583 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2004 : 19:26:20

In our use, is it necessary to have a separate battery for starting?

There have been many discussions concerning using a separate dedicated starting battery for the outboard and another set for everything else, but I would think using one (or two) deep cycle house batteries would be enough for both the outboard and the boat.

What do you think?

Edited by - on

osmepneo
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

USA
1420 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2004 : 20:49:36

Don,

From my perspective I don't really see a need for daysailing for two batteries. One should work well for both the ob and the rest of the boat. Although I'm interested in what others have to say concerning this question.

Frank,

I'm intreques with your brass posts on both sides of the sail locker. that would simplifiy installing the electrical start cables. My concern on the 1980 modles, the gas tank is in the sail locker, and I think I would be concerned with gas vapors accumlating in the sail locker and a spark from the ob cables sparking and osmepneo going bye-bye, along with me. Is this a valid concern? if so maybe the best thing to do would be to make my own starter cables, 20 feet or so, and run them directly from the ob, to the battery.

Edited by - on

lcharlot
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Antigua and Barbuda
1301 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2004 : 22:09:05

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by osmepneo
 From my perspective I don't really see a need for daysailing for two batteries. One should work well for both the ob and the rest of the <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I would agree with this, one battery is enough for daysailing, unless you are running power-hungry devices like radar, microwave oven (from an inverter), or a 500 watt "big boooom-boooom" stereo amplifier (like the kids put in their cars nowadays). A 32 watt solar panel left tied to the boom during the week when the boat is not in use will keep the battery topped up and always ready for your weekend jaunts.

Edited by - on

Dave Bristle
Master Marine Consultant

Members Avatar

Djibouti
10005 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2004 : 22:46:16

To the first question, I run the Honda cables through a boot and hole in the transom to two stud terminals near the back of the quarterberth (on the side of the cockpit well). From there, I ran a heavy-gauge cable to an on-off battery switch in the galley (where I can reach it from the companionway), and on to the battery well under the starboard settee (to a single battery). To install or remove the motor, I have to crawl back in the quaterberth and remove two wing nuts, but I normally only do it twice a year. I turn the switch off when I leave the boat.

Edited by - Dave Bristle on 03/12/2004 22:48:49

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

Members Avatar

Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 03/12/2004 : 22:58:33

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by osmepneo
 
Frank,

I'm intreques with your brass posts on both sides of the sail locker. that would simplifiy installing the electrical start cables. My concern on the 1980 modles, the gas tank is in the sail locker, and I think I would be concerned with gas vapors accumlating in the sail locker and a spark from the ob cables sparking and osmepneo going bye-bye, along with me. Is this a valid concern? if so maybe the best thing to do would be to make my own starter cables, 20 feet or so, and run them directly from the ob, to the battery.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

My tank's vent/fill cap is inches away from the posts. I believe the trick is to have the master power off before attaching or detaching, (or lift the tank out of the way). While connected I don't think there is an issue.

If you make your own they still only need to run to the back of the battery switch. As a lake sailor I have two batteries and a permanent charger. My charger is connected to the back of the battery switch too, to the direct leads from the batteries. The back side of our panels are a wealth of opportunity.

This is a picture I took to plan my charger installation, it was easier to stare at this rather than be upside down in the sail locker.

Edited by - on

Topic

New Topic

Topic Locked

Printer Friendly

Jump To:

Association Forum

Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.