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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am re-doing the wiring in my 1989 C25. The wiring diagram in the new (1988) manual specifies "#4" wire for most of it (which I assume to be 4 ga.) from batteries to switch, batteries to ground and between the two batteries (I am using group 24). This seems overkill - would 6 ga or smaller be acceptable? For the subpanel wiring (to fuse or circuit breaker panel for interior lights, navigation equip, etc.) 10 ga. is specified.
I have a 10 amp charging coil on the Honda outboard and no power-hungry electronics anywhere in the boat. No shore power.
What did the original 1989's REALLY ship with? The wiring I have seen on other C25s did not appear to be 4 ga. but rather something much lighter.
Our 04 C250 came with 10 gauge from battery to panel and 14 gauge everywhere else. The only time I would go bigger than 10 is if joining to golf cart batteries in series for house keeping batteries. I would use 4 gauge for the series joining only and 10 gauge to the panel.
Yep you can get away with 14 gage wire but there is a catch. The wire length itself eats up current. If your going to power items on the mast like a deck light or spreader light , nave light etc on the mast and you run a 14 gage wire dont expect your lights to be as bright as they should be. If you want to be able to push current over a length of wire it needs to be of correct size. Hope this link helps
Yes, indeed: I am using tinned (Ancor) wiring with heat-shrink connectors or tubing where needed. I am including a 25 or 30A circuit breaker in the main, which was not in the original design. The PO has installed an off-the-shelf panel with non-tinned wire and there was some ominous fraying and corrosion inside, so it has to be redone.
Why would Catalina specify "#4" wire in the owner's manual if that is really excessive?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Daniel</i> <br />with heat-shrink connectors or tubing where needed.
<font size="3">For what it's worth, there's a brand (the name doesn't come to mind) of heat shrink tubing that has adhesive on the interior surface - making it more moisture resistant.</font id="size3">
Why would Catalina specify "#4" wire in the owner's manual if that is really excessive?
<font size="3">As most of us are using 14 gauge, maybe the "#4" is just a typo . . . </font id="size3"> <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
When you use 14 gauge wire for lamps and so forth, check that chart link that was in one of those messages. I think the chart says that the current limit for 14-ga wire is 5.9 amps. If you're using 14-ga wire, you want your circuit protection to open up well before current reaches 30 or 35 amps. If you try to push that much current down that small gauge wire, the wire will heat, and it could cause a fire. So make sure that you size the circuit breaker to the wire that you're using. Using too large a breaker for the wire size is like putting a penny into a fuze socket: You can carry the current, but it could be dangerous.
Dave Gabel Walkure 1979 Tall rig, fin keel Sail 1484
Daniel the reason that the #4 AWG wire is specified in the areas you mentioned isn't because it's needed to carry the amperage in a properly functioning system.
#4 AWG is recommended in order to handle the current your batteries will produce in a short circuit condition in those non fuse protected portions of your main wiring system, without immediately glowing red hot and causing a fire. A shorted battery system will turn inadequately sized wiring red hot as quickly as an old flashbulb. Using #10 wire for your main system will create a serious safety hazzard.
For the branch circuitry I would use #10 in order to avoid any voltage drop. Voltage drop is a function of the current in the circuit, the size of the wire and the length of the wiring run.
ditto what Old Salt said ... I'll add that, knowing some degree of corrosion is almost inevitabe, larger gauge will keep the current carrying capacity of the wire well in the safe zone even with some corrosion induced degradation. Also, regarding smaller gauge wire eating up current, the bottom line here is that you batteries will last longer with larger wire, and it's likely to be cheaper in the long run (http://www.copper.org/applications/electrical/energy/onesizeup.html) Casey's "Sailboat Electrics Simplified" provides a formula for determining current loss with any load/gauge combination, but as an example, using #14 wire with a 10 amp charging load, you start losing a siginificant amount of current after about 10 feet ... that's 5 each way ... with brand new, dry, unflexed, unpinched, uncorroded bright shiny new wire with perfect connections.
I hate having to walk up the same hill twice, and I'll using #2 or larger for the battery wires. I've yet to calculate the loads and distances for the various circuits so I can't say what sizes elswhere ... 'course I'm a 'lectro toy junkie, too (FeEeL tHe PowWwErR!!!)
You may not need #4, but I'd sure go larger than #14.
I agree with Mark, in a wire run without over-current protection, the wire needs to be sized for the battery's nonimal voltage, divided by its internal resistance (when new). That calculation will indeed suggest a heavy wire guage.
Another way to greatly reduce the risk of a short circuit in the battery leads causing a fire, is to install a fuse or circuit breaker in each battery positive lead within the shortest practical lead length from the battery. This over-current protection would need to be larger than your highest anticipated current, in or out of the battery. An example of worst case peak current would be an electric starter draw plus the rating of the main DC circuit breaker or fuse. (Maybe 100A or so, total.) Then you can size the wire for the rating of over-current protection installed.
When in doubt about which wire guage to choose, refer to the standard Current/Volt Drop/Run Length charts. West Marine provides copies in their catalog (page 660 of the 2004 big book). Remember to add the lengths of both the positive and negative wires together. I would suggest using the 3% chart for everything with the possible exceptions of: electric starter, cabin lights, fans, pressure water. If you use cigarette lighter style utility outlets, be sure they are all wired and over-current protected for the most power hungry accessory you might ever plug in. A 1,000,000cp hand-held spotlight, for example, draws maybe 10A.
Thanks, everyone. I had gone thru the WM and the Ancor guidelines pretty closely and done all the calculations (with device amperages, wire lengths and gauges,etc., branch and main circuits), but hadn't figured (or read anything) on heavy wiring for possible short circuit in the main. I was planning to put circuit breakers near each battery as well to address that, so perhaps I can safely use 6 ga. wire in the main circuit.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.