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Mast Lighting

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frich
Captain

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USA
418 Posts

Initially Posted - 03/16/2004 : 07:29:51

Hello All

This weekend I am planning on installing a new steaming light on my mast. Question is; I believe the PO had the mast lights wired wrong. Am I correct in the following: On my Catalina panel the "Anchor" swich should be to turn on the masthead light, the "running" light would be the steaming light @ the spreaders. Now for the halogen that is incorporated into the running light, do I want this on while underway?

If not can I place it on a separate circuit? appreciate all ideas.

Thanks
Frank R
C25 84 SK

Edited by - on

svmoxie
Past Commodore

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USA
331 Posts

Response Posted - 03/16/2004 : 09:33:41

Frank,

Your right, the anchor light is at the top of the mast and the "running light" is the steaming light at the spreaders. The deck light, the halogen lamp built into the steaming light, is for lighting the deck only when needed and should not be routinely lit. That would kill your night vision. You should wire it separately, which may require a new deck plug as well.

Edited by - on

Jack Heaston
1st Mate

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48 Posts

Response Posted - 03/16/2004 : 12:14:27

Frank
If your deck plug has four holes in it, they would be (the larger one) for the ground, the steaming light, the anchor light and (if your steaming light fixture has one, (mine does not thanks to a PO's replacement with a cheaper one light fixture) a down-looking deck light. I understand that some boats only had three holes and no provision for a deck light.
I have not yet tried it, but am told you can use a little square shaped 9-volt battery (the kind in your smoke alarm that always quits in the middle of the night)to test the wiring and lights in the mast if it's not stepped.
A little experimenting with a 12 volt tester behind the panel should reveal what is going on and allow you to rewire the switches to the proper lights if necessary.
On my panel, the "Running Lights" connect to the bow, stern and instruments and compass lights. The "Bow Light" is the steaming light above the spreaders. The "Deck Light" is not apparently connected to anything and I hope to find its end taped under the steaming light fixture, so I can run a wire from there to the masthead to illuminate the Windex so I can see it night. That is, if I can find a Windex light, which has elluded me so far.
These Forums are excellent sources of information from those that have done all this before. I really appreciate all of their help. In fact, I think I'll post a question about the Windex light.
Good luck.
Jack - 83 FK/SR 3944

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 03/16/2004 : 12:17:25

Mine is labelled a little differently. "Running Lights" switch operates the red/green whale-eye lights and the stern (transom) light -- on while sailing. "Bow Light" switch operates the steaming light -- on with the Running Lights while motoring/motor-sailing. "Spreader Light" switch operates the light pointing at the deck, built into and under the Bow Light (maybe because this light is located on the underside of the spreaders on many other boats). "Anchor Light" switch, like others said, operates the 360 degree light at the masthead -- on while anchoring. "Cabin Lights" switch operates interior lights. Last, but not least, "Master" switch.

Edited by - on

GregOnC25
Deckhand

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USA
22 Posts

Response Posted - 03/16/2004 : 21:07:26

From my recollection of my mast lighting inspection in January, the description Jack gave is right on. I plan to replace all running lights and found good deal on these, including the dual steaming/deck light, at go2marine.com. The prices were significantly cheaper than other places (to remain nameless) and the service was prompt. Hopefully the snow will melt here in NJ and I can finish the installation!

Edited by - on

falco_esq
1st Mate

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USA
60 Posts

Response Posted - 04/04/2004 : 23:49:19

While I am here asking questions, my Anchor light is not working. I changed the bulb, but nothing happened. I changed the fuses and nothing happened. Is there a good way to trouble shoot?

Edited by - on

mmac
Navigator

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USA
168 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2004 : 01:09:49

Frank,
Jim Baumgart and I are doing the same project on my boat today. My panel is labled like Richard G's. My "bow" switch will operate steaming light when under power and the "speader" switch will work the deck light. I'm rewiring the mast and have run some of the cable through the cabin top and back to the panel. I'm installing a new 4-prong deck plug.

In response to your other post, we had trouble with the old wire too. Jim used pure brute force and yanked it out! Doug and Maureen on Valkyrie had helped us drop the mast. I bought a cheap 50 ft wire fish at Harbor Freight. It made it pretty easy to get the new wire in place(third time's the charm). We put cable ties every few feet as Scot D. suggested to quiet the wire.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2004 : 07:57:12

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by falco_esq
 While I am here asking questions, my Anchor light is not working. I changed the bulb, but nothing happened. I changed the fuses and nothing happened. Is there a good way to trouble shoot?
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
you simply meter the wire. If there is no power then it is usually the plug, occasionally the socket. If I only had three wires I would blow off the steaming light and light the anchor light and the deck light.

Edited by - on

RichardG
Admiral

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USA
990 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2004 : 11:04:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">If I only had three wires I would blow off the steaming light and light the anchor light and the deck light.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

If I only had the option of three wires, I think I would eliminate the deck light because I very rarely use it anyway; plus regulations don't require it. Regulations require an anchor light while anchoring and a steaming light (in combo with running lights) while motoring.

Edited by - on

Jack Heaston
1st Mate

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48 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2004 : 11:21:40

More thoughts on mast wiring:
The 9 volt battery works well in testing the lights and the wiring inside the mast. The plug and socket from an old smoke alarm were used to snap onto the battery terminals. If you have one of those round blue 14/16 gauge male/female removeable connectors, the female fits snugly over the ground pin and the male can be spread just a tad to fit over the other three pins on the plug. This lets you plug the battery in, let it hang from the male plug and go look at the lights. They are not too bright in the sunshine. If you suspect a fault, a fuse holder can be added to the hot lead from the battery. A short circuit can be tested with an ohm meter betweeen any of the three plugs, the ground and the mast. A high ohm reading indicates no continuity, otherwise, no ohms means a grounded (faulty wire or hot terminal in a fixture touching ground), and a low ohm reading should be the resistance of the wire and light bulb if connected between any of three pins and ground. No ohms in this situation probably means a burnt out bulb, broken wire or bad connection. I was appalled at the wiring inside the mast - certainly not up to marine standards, with splices made by stripping the untinned wires, twisting them together and covering with black tape. Not accusing Butler & Co, as it might have been a PO who rewired the mast.
Anyway I found 20 years of corrosion present on both the male and female plugs that was preventing a good connection. After labeling the female plug pins on the deck with a 12 volt checker by turning on light switches one at a time and taking the male apart, it's terminals were easy to clean with emory cloth. Had to wrap the emory cloth around a matchstick to get the female plug holes cleaned up. The lights worked fine afterwards. It would be well to write down which color wire is to which light, or sketch the wire connection points on the male plug, so it can be reassembled correctly if the pins need to be cleaned. My wires all pulled out of the plug when I tried to take it apart, so labeling them from the 9 volt battery helped.
Next week I will be adding a VHF antenna cable and a 14 ga duplex run to the masthead for a Windex light. If I have trouble snaking the wires, I will rewire the whole mast using marine grade wire and connectors.
Hope this is helpful.
Best regards,
Jack 83 FK/SR 3944

Edited by - on

CGood
Deckhand

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10 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2004 : 16:47:39

The 9v test worked well for me for the running light, but since I was alone at the time and I didn't have any wire, didn't work good for the masthead light since I cannot see around corners 30' away. Help, mirrors and/or darkness always helps.

9v test passed. So did the volt meeter check at the deck plug. But, when I went to plug the mast in, lights still don't work. I will try cleaning the terminals more - light sand paper on a match stick might work, except the smaller holes concern me a little.

Any other thoughts? Anyone have experience using CLR on the terminals to remove the corrosion?

CG

Edited by - on

Daniel
1st Mate

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78 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2004 : 17:52:47

It is my understanding that the following terms are used:

Running lights: red + green lights at bow PLUS white light at stern
Bow or Masthead light: white light at spreader (NOT top of mast,
despite the name); also known as steaming light
Anchor light: white light at top of mast.

Is this correct? I think the bow/masthead/steaming terms cause most confusion.

Edited by - on

Frank Hopper
Past Commodore

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Pitcairn Island
6776 Posts

Response Posted - 04/05/2004 : 21:35:51

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by RichardG
 <blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">If I only had three wires I would blow off the steaming light and light the anchor light and the deck light.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

If I only had the option of three wires, I think I would eliminate the deck light because I very rarely use it anyway; plus regulations don't require it. Regulations require an anchor light while anchoring and a steaming light (in combo with running lights) while motoring.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Here is my thinking, A steaming light is visible from the front, no one knows how tall your mast is. An anchor light will be visible from the front, it will work as an anchor light and will light your windex. The deck light is a safety issue for me, when I have guests or even for my own docking I use the deck light a lot.

Edited by - on

Champipple
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
6855 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2004 : 10:01:39

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by Daniel
 It is my understanding that the following terms are used:

Running lights: red + green lights at bow PLUS white light at stern
Bow or Masthead light: white light at spreader (NOT top of mast,
despite the name); also known as steaming light
Anchor light: white light at top of mast.

Is this correct? I think the bow/masthead/steaming terms cause most confusion.
<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">

I think you have it - however It does get confusing because manufacturers today make a tri color masthead lights and also market a 360 Masthead light which is to be used for anchoring.

For sailing boats our size

The main thing to know is that when sailing during periods of poor visability or at night - have a 135 degree white stern light shining aft and two 112.5 degree red and green lights shining forward.

If motoring add a 225 degree white steaming or "mastheadlight." Shining forward.

If anchored a 360 degree white light at the top of the mast

Edited by - on

Sea Trac
Master Marine Consultant

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Vanuatu
1357 Posts

Response Posted - 04/06/2004 : 10:47:36

<blockquote id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">Originally posted by CGood
 Anyone have experience using CLR on the terminals to remove the corrosion?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote">
Hi Chris,

That was precisely what I had to do in order to finally get my lights working. I also found, and had to clean, an equivalent amount of corrision around all the bulbs.

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