Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Noticed on my new (to me - haven't sailed her yet) 83 FK/SR that the vertical joint on the rudder's leading edge above the waterline seems to be separating. Below the waterline, there is an epoxy barrier coat with some minor cracking (crazing?), but it still appears sound. Does anyone know if this is a typical failure and something that needs to be fixed, or can the leading edge joint look like it is separating, but is indeed not? I am reluctant to grind it off and do a repair, since I'm not experienced with working with resin and fiberglass roving. Hate to fix something that ain't broke.
Also noticed that on the lower pintle bracket the forward 1/4" hole through the rudder had been egged out, but a 5/16" bolt fit snuggly, and was considering just drilling out the bracket another 1/16" using a larger bolt and calling it good. There was also a little crack from the hole to the leading edge that should maybe be sealed? Considering the two problems, would I be better off filling the hole with epoxy and drilling it back out to 1/4"?
Any advice, or reference to previous threads, would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, Jack
There is a little-known and often disregarded caution in the C-25 owner's manual that recommends against using dark colored anti-fouling paint on the rudder. The manual doesn't say why you shouldn't use it. When I first started using dark colored bottom paint on my rudder, I didn't know about that caution. My problems with rudder splitting began after I started using dark colored paint, and I suspect it is the cause of a lot of the rudder problems. I suggest you get a small can of white or light-colored bottom paint, just for the rudder.
I wonder if the splitting is 'vintage' related? Like a change in method/materials occurred in a production run?
My 27 year old rudder is solid as the day it hatched out of the factory, dark bottom paint and all. Whatever it's made out of, 'lightweight' is not an attribute that comes to mind when lugging it around.
The c-25 owner's manual that came with my '83 boat doesn't include any recommendation regarding not using dark antifouling paint on the rudder, but I can see were they're coming from.
Dark surfaces can become extremely hot when exposed to long periods of direct sunlight which could concievably cause all sorts of problems with expansion in the rudder core or on the surface itself which could cause separation, especially in units constructed the way Catalina built theirs. I wonder if the problem was solved by the time my manual was printed.
Oddly, the manual that was shipped with my boat makes no mention of lead keels, in spite of the fact mine is indeed lead.
For "rustproofing" cast iron keels the manual recommends using Rustoleum or any other zinc chromate paint, or alternatively, a two part epoxy coating.
They also recommended installing a tear shaped zinc on the leading edge of the swing keel as close to the keel pin as possible, for swingers sailed in salt water.
My original rudder, painted with dark blue antifouling, was as good as new when I replaced it with a balanced model a few years ago. Of course when it was new it did exhibit easily visible seams, both front and back, where the two halves were bonded together.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Jack Heaston</i> <br /> . . . Hate to fix something that ain't broke . . . <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Jack, if it ain't broke, you're not trying .
You might consider drilling an oversized hole, say 3/8", filling that with epoxy and re-drilling to 1/4". This will help reduce further water migration into the rudder.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.