Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Some time last year the question was raised about fresh water system sanitation. I have read the posts that were found by searching all forums for 'Fresh Water'. I am really looking for the comment about using 'peroxide' in lieu of bleach as a longer lasting solution to the problem of keeping fresh water safe. Searching peroxide or hydrogen-peroxide got me zero. So, does anyone know where I can find a reference to this?
BTW, 2 weeks ago I pulled the tank, cleaned it and replaced all of the hoses. It had been winterized with RV anti-freeze. To drain it was difficult. A drill powered pump could not draw a suction. I wound up using an extension on the bilge pump. That is 'do-able' but not a convenient activity for an every two week time schedule. So thats why I'd like to extend the cycle of sanitation. I agree with the other postings, this stuff is NOT for drinking.
At any rate it's been fun.
Bill Jaworowski, Moonbeams. C25 SK/SR #4953 Sailing Lake Carlyle, IL.
I believe that the concentration of peroxide that would be necessary to be effective would be toxic as well. I empty my system, add 2 liters of cheap vodka to the tank and pump some through the galley pump when I lay up the boat for the winter. It's worked for me since 1983. It probably wouldn't be a bad idea to use water purification tablets if you want to drink the stuff or use it to brush your teeth. I don't, I use it for washing hands only and bring water aboard for potable purposes.
Peroxide , Bleach differnt chemicals same effect. On every new jet comming out of the Boeing factory in Renton we use a type of bleach solution. Heck I have even heard of Jin used to keep water fresh. I am under the impression though that Hydrogen Peroxide requires some sort of catalist chemical to start the process. Did you do a google search under Peroxide water treatment. I found scads of information. According to The American Red Cross the only treatment for house water in the event of disaster is to use bleach. You wont be working to their standards but if you do the process is as follows. Boil the water, let it cool, add 16 drops of bleach per gallon. I use to use 2 Tablespoons in the Catalina tank.
Hydrogen peroxide is H202, the same as water with an additional oxygen ion and is, therefor, very unstable and breaks down without any catalyst into water and oxygen. The concentration required to disinfect a water tank would require that the tank be filled with a concentration of 3% hydrogen peroxide solution, the same concentration you buy for medicinal purposes at the drugstore. If you want to use water from that tank to brush your teeth, you'd have to cut it a furthter 50% with water, and it would still be too strong to drink.
Hydrogen peroxide in higher concentrations is of course used to "bleach" hair, and in higher concentrations still, as an extremely corrosive rocket fuel. Dangerous stuff.
Bleach on the other hand, either added in the correct amount by droplet or water purification tablet, does it's work at concentrations that are safe for potable use, and it's more stable as well.
Here's Peggie Hall's step by step procedure for sanitizing onboard water tanks:
-----------------------------------------
<center><b><u>Bleach shocking a contaminated fresh water system.</u></b></center>
<i>by: Peggie Hall, 3/24/04</i>
Many people have expressed concern about using this method to recommission aluminum tanks. While bleach (chlorine) IS corrosive, it's effects are are cumulative...miniscule amounts over time have far more impact than a single heavy "dose," so the cumulative effect of holding chlorinated city water in the tank for years has far more negative impact on the tank than an annual or semi-annual "shock treatment" that's immediately flushed out. Nevertheless, it's a good idea to mix the total amount of bleach in a few gallons of water before putting it into either a stainless or aluminum tank.
And BTW, it's that cumulative effect that also makes it a VERY bad idea to add a little bleach to each fill. Not only does it damage the system, but unless you add enough to make your water taste and smell like a laundry, it's not enough to do any good. Even if it were, any "purifying" properties in chlorine evaporate within 24 hours, leaving behind only the corrosive properties.
Directions:
Before beginning, turn off hot water heater at the breaker; do not turn it on again until the entire recommissioning is complete.
Icemakers should be left running to allow cleaning out of the water feed line; however the first two buckets of iceāthe bucket generated during recommissioning and the first bucketful afterward--should be discarded.
1.) Prepare a chlorine solution using one gallon of water and 1/2 cup (4 oz) Clorox or Purex household bleach (5% sodium Hypochlorine solution ). With tank empty, pour chlorine solution into tank. Use one gallon of solution for each 5 gallons of tank capacity.
2.) Complete filling of tank with fresh water. Open each faucet and drain cock until air has been released and the entire system is filled. Do not turn off the pump; it must remain on to keep the system pressurized and the solution in the lines
3.) Allow to stand for at least three hours, but no longer than 24 hours.
4.) Drain through every faucet on the boat (and if you haven't done this in a while, it's a good idea to remove any diffusion screens from the faucets, because what's likely to come out will clog them). Fill the tank again with fresh water only, drain again through every faucet on the boat.
5.) To remove excess chlorine taste or odor which might remain, prepare a solution of one quart white vinegar to five gallons water and allow this solution to agitate in tank for several days by vehicle motion.
6.) Drain tank again through every faucet, and flush the lines again by fill the tank 1/4-1/2 full and again flushing with potable water.
Recommissioning the system according to these directions every spring will also get rid of the taste/smell of antifreeze.
An annual or semi-annual recommissioning according to the above directions is all that should be necessary to keep your water tasting and smelling as good as anything that comes out of any faucet on land. If you need to improve on that, install a water filter. Just remember that a filter is not a substitute for cleaning out the system, and that filters require regular inspection and cleaning or replacement.
Hi Bill Are you looking to keep the water "sanitized for drinking" or just trying to keep the "smell" down . I use the boat almost every weekend, but seldom ever stay on it overnight (Have a camping trailer on the lake, so no need to stay on it ; therefore I usually fill up the water tank at the beginning of the season and it lasts all season!! (Just use it mostly for washing hands, etc.) After a few weeks of not using it much, the water would start to smell so much I could even wash my hands with it!! Last year I was in "Wally World" in the RV section and came upon a product that is called "TastePURE Drinking Water Freshener". "Keeps Stored Water Fresh Tasting & Odor Free". You only need a capful per 10gal water. It worked quite well and kept the water from smelling almost all season. I will be using it again this season. I suppose, RV'ers have had this problem for a long time so maybe they have come up with some solutions. It is made by CAMCO and they have a website www.camco.net NFI. Just thought I would pass along something that works for me.
My method of "winterizing" the water tank this year was to set the head y-valve to go out the through-hull and just flushed all of the remaining water out that way. If there had been any residual water it would have been easy enough to unscrew the settee, unscrew the tank cap, and pull out the icicle (I guess that only works north of Dixie!)
It would be a good idea to view this water supply as fresh water for dishes, hand-washing, and the head. Best to bring a drinking supply on board each time you go to the boat. They do sell filters for Giardia and other contaminating bacteria, and I've installed check valves everywhere that might flow back, but none of that is really sufficient if the water sits there all season.
Thnak you, team, I have depended on the sailors on this forum for many things. Hopefully, I can continue to contribute from time to time. I cruise an inland lake with ready access to replacement city water. So, I will use a couple of the suggestions for keepng the water 'fresh', in-season: 1) Forget the peroxide, too spooky a combination. 2) Drain, flush, and refill regularly. 3) Add an small amount of bleach. (avoid accumulating too much) 4) The Vodka idea has some value, but I think i'd rather use it directly.(Not for hands) 5) Don't plan to drink it, just use it to wash ... That's my plan. Now, to sail. Thanks agian, team.
I just drop a couple capfuls into the tank, then fill and pump out two times (14 gal tank I think). Then refill and go sailing. I wouldn't drink it often but have used it for brushing now and then and haven't seen any ill effects...yet!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.