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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I am installing an anchor roller on Adventurous and am following the directions posted in the tech tips, which calls for West System 5200 between the anchor roller and the deck. Being the funds-challenged person that I am, and since I don't have enough 5200 already, I'm wondering...Is it okay if I use 4200, of which I have plenty? I can't see a downside, but the upside being that the installation is not permanent. If 5200 is really the better choice, I will not compromise on the boat, and I will purchase the 5200. But if 4200 will work just as well, then...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Ben</i> <br />I am installing an anchor roller on Adventurous and am following the directions posted in the tech tips, which calls for West System 5200 between the anchor roller and the deck...I'm wondering...Is it okay if I use 4200...?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Ben,
I would use the 4200 because, like any other piece of deck hardware, you may have to remove it sometime in the future. Besides, the bolts securing the anchor roller provide all the mechanical adhesion it will ever need.
I can't think of too many applications on the deck where I'd use 5200. Super gluing the keel to the boat is about it.
I just found out that 4200 is being replaced by 4000. 4000 has UV inhibitors and the manufacturer claims that it won't yellow. I have had a problem with 4200 yellowing. I like to see a manufacturer who improves their product. Gee, should I buy stock in 3M?
I prefer 101 to both 4200 and 5200 for anything that might need to be removed later on. I'll only use 5200 on 'structural' improvements that I have no intention of ripping out at some future point in time.
If you do need to remove something put down with 5200, a heat gun works wonders. At a certain temperature the 5200 reverts to goo. Of course, this approach is not practical in all situations.
Frank asked... "So what is 101? Is this by another manufacturer?"
No, It's part of the marine caulk series by 3M. The 101 is a different compounding, based on polysulfide rather than a having a polyurethane base like 4200/5200.
It is the least adhesive and most flexible of the three we have been talking about. IMHO best for most of the hardware that I wamt to 'bed in'. The presense of moisture makes 101 harden up... and it can be used for bedding Teak (which is not recommended for 4200)
For more info see Westmarine.com and search on "3M 101".
An alternative to the 3M products are the 'Boat Life" series.. their polyurethane sealant is compounded with silicone which allows it to release from gelcoat witout pulling it up. I've used their products (Polyurethane sealant, Polysulfide calk) and am pleased with the results.
IMHO they seem slightly 'thinner' than the corresponding 3M products. I think 101 remains my favorite because is is a little thicker... (IMHO seat-of-the-pants comment)
"Chemically cures to form a firm, rubbery watertight seal. Non-sagging, non-shrinking formula becomes tack free in 5 hours and remains permanently flexible. Seals between mechanically fastened joints on wood, fiberglass, metal and most plastics; above and below the waterline. Excellent resistance to chemicals, weathering, salt water, and stresses caused by joint movement."
Be careful were you use Ployurethane or Ploysulfide based calks. My new Spinlock triples and deck organizers say specifically in the instruction to not use these based calks because they will deteriorate the plastic.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by frog0911</i> <br />Be careful where you use Polyurethane or Polysulfide based caulks. My new Spinlock triples and deck organizers say specifically in the instructions to not use these based caulks because they will deteriorate the plastic.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
That's what makes hybrid caulks, like LifeSeal, a silicone/polyurethane caulk, popular.
I'm glad Don mentioned that because it's been my experience that marine silicone is hands-down better for any above-waterline job than 4200 or 5200. The original silicone the factory used in my C25 is still sound, flexible, and gripping tight to this day; the old 5200 is turning to chalk. I had to remove some new 5200 I had put on for a locker latch job and found that it held the pieces no better than silicone but couldn't be removed with Goo-Gone the way silicone can.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.