Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I'm getting ready to put my stick in and I bought a Loos gauge to tension the shrouds. Do you guys just follow the numbers on the gauge instructions (which seem to depend only on the thickness of the shrouds), or are there other considerations? This is for a swinger. Just rebuilt the drawers under the sink, for the wife. I made a plexiglas box and attached the mahogany face frame to that. Screwed the whole thing to the opening below the gally sink and now have a more or less dirt-and-water proof drawer set-up.
I used my new Loos standard for my 3/16" rigging yesterday. I was ready to set the forestay at 700lbs as the instructions recommend but my new forestay is a little short. By the time I was comfortable with the amount of threads in the turnbuckle I was up to 880lbs. I set the uppers to 500lbs. I figure the new rigging will stretch some. I think my new lowers from CD are also 3/16.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by OJ</i> <br />Because of the different shroud sizes on the C25 people have always had to purchase both size gauges.
Which model did you purchase, standard or professional? Oddly, the gauge readings between the two vary. <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
The other alternative is to re-rig the boat with all the same guage shrouds and stays....then you just have to buy one Loos guage. With the price of the guages these days, that might be a cheaper alternative.
I know a lot of people who just use the one guage to make sure the tension on both sides of the boat is even. Others who have all the guages and there chart of shroud, stay, checkstay and baby-stay numbers for every possible wind and wave condition...It all depends on what you want out of it.
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">...my new forestay is a little short.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">Frank, when someone says his headstay is too short, it is usually because it wasn't installed correctly. Try this: Tie a line to your main halyard and lash it to the stern of the boat. Then tie a line to your jib halyard and lash it to the bow of the boat. Those lines will hold the mast up while you completely disconnect the headstay and the backstay. Then disconnect the headstay and completely remove the turnbuckle barrel. Reconnect it, making sure that you start the threads in both ends of the turnbuckle barrel at the same time. Then do the same thing with the backstay turnbuckle. That should give you a little more room for adjustment.
Thanks Steve. I have done that, I think the real culprit is that I did not buy the kit with the open turnbuckles that CD cuts the stays specifically to fit. I bought the 250 turnbuckles which are a bit shorter. I will get it worked out and it will be fine.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.