Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Striped and barrier coated the bottom and used Micron CSC for bottom paint. The depth sounder now reads 42' or better when in my slip of about 8'. The transducer is epoxied to the bottom under the galley drawers. Could the barrier coat be causing this. If it was the barrier coat I thought the sounder would read more like 2" not 41'Any help would be appreciated thanks
Yes the bottom paint can cause this problem. The signal bouncing back is unable to penatrait the hull as good as before it was coated. How much copper is in that stuff ?
Ifit was the paint wouldn't it read more like 2" rather than 40'. Tried it this weekend again and it was reading 24' ann improvement but still wrong. Anyone have any ideas to fix it. Can I buy just a new transducer?
First question, was your depth sounder reading correctly before the boat was hauled and how long after the last use was the boat hauled? If the above answers are Yes and Not Long, I would go diving with some 100 grit sandpaper and sand the paint off the transducer. You will be wet sanding needles to say so you should not hurt the transducer. I sand a bit then check it. It make take two or three times, but after that if it still reads bad the odds are the transducer is bad. Some company's will repair them cheaply, compared to a new one. You might try that angle with an EM to the company if replacement becomes necessary. Good luck.
If I read your comments correctly, you have the transducer epoxied on the INSIDE of the hull. If that is correct, IMHO the rebound sound wave is being deflected by the paint barrier coat. Clearing that area, ON THE OUTSIDE, may solve the problem. I just epoxied my transducer to the inside of th hull in the vee berth ... It had been OK hanging over the side and, so too, when test mounted inside. But with silicone it was crazy. Good Luck, I'd like to hear your results.
It is epoxied to the hull inside. Its not a through te hull type. It was working fine last year before all the bottom work. Would hate to sand through the barrier coat. That would kind of defeat the reason for doining all that work in the first place. I can't inagine it came loose there is a 4" PVC coupling epoxid to the hull and the transducer sits in aprox 2" of epoxie. Not shure what to do next short of buying a new one. Can you buy just the transducer
This is my transponder location, it is in no more epoxy than is needed to cover the and level the spot it sits on, less than a 1/4 at its deepest. Why would your transponder be mounted so it has to read through two inches of epoxy?
Transponders work fine mounted on the inside of hulls when they are mounted correctly. I recommend you try the following (a time-tested way to get transponders to work well inside the hull when drilling a hole is not an option):
1) Buy a short length (6") of PVC 2" inside dia pipe and a cap. You'll also need PVC dope and cement.
2) The pipe needs to be cut (use a hacksaw with a sharp blade) so it will sit vertical and the cut matches the angle of the hull where the transducer is epoxied.
3) Use a file or small block plane to shave the flange of the transducer so the pipe fits just over it. (Some transducers come with 2" flanges, some 21/4". If yours is any bigger than that, you'll need to step up to 21/2"pipe.)
4) Position the Pipe over the transducer and attach it to the hull using 4200 or a similar sealant.
5) Pour mineral oil into the pipe/container until the transducer is half covered with the oil (It helps make signal transmission and reception better)
6) Cut a narrow slot in the end cap, lead the wire through the slot, and then dope and glue the cap onto the pipe. Then fill the slot with sealant. Attach wire, and presto.
BTW, I think this is covered along with photos in Tech Tips. There is also a good article on the procedure in this month's BoatWorks magazine.
Dave, so you are saying that I should finish the install of mine by immersing it in mineral oil via the pipe install? What will I gain since it works now? It does need to reset its self sometimes but I assume cheap Hummingbirds are less than mil spec in performance. You kind of gloss over the epoxy the transponder part.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.