Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Well, it's all done. I just moved the Leigh-Marie forward on the rollers tonight after painting the area under the rollers. Here is the Before and After pictures of the keel. I hope to put her in the water on May 1.
I just installed my 2 triple rope clutches and deck organizers this evening. My daughter re-teak-oiled all the interior teak. I replaced all the pinrails with the spindled kind (Cool!). Tomorrow I will wash her and wax the sides of her. I also hope to finish replacing the last of my head hoses tomorrow.
ClamBeach, I did put a very light coat of bottom paint on my depth sounder transducer. I had read a while back on this forum that a light coat could work. I guess I didn't check to see if there was a transducer-friendly paint even available. What kind of problems could I run into? And, should I remove that coat of paint? It's a lot easier to do it now when it's out of the water!
RichardG, I can get pictures later today on the pinrails. I have a "Before" and can take an "After." I just think it looks a bit more nautical. The downside is that the teak pinrails were expensive.
I moved the boat by having a long rope go completely around the boat from the stern through the boweye and back to the stern on the other side. I also had a line going around my keel and I tied all 4 ends (2 ends for each of the lines above) to my Saturn VUE's trailer hitch. These lines kept the boat stationary and I essentially pulled the trailer out from under the boat 16 inches with my Suburban to get at the areas under the rollers. It worked great! I'd post the pictures of it, but for some reason my Shutterfly account doesn't seem to want to let me add new pics. I'll figure it out and get them on later. (Later, here they are.)
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by LeighMarie</i> <br />to my Saturn VUE's trailer hitch.... my Suburban <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote"> Whew you had me really scared! That Vue would disembowel its self trying to haul our boats.
"And, should I remove that coat of paint? It's a lot easier to do it now when it's out of the water!"
That's what I was thinking too.
Actually, the big problem with 'paint-sensitive' transducers is not due to the coating degrading performance... but that the solvent compounding in many bottom paints will chemically attack the surface of the transducer. (start dissolving it!)
The transducer that came with my Raytheon has a very specific warning "Do not Paint with... (yada) use only water-based...".
I think there are probably other transducers that are less sensitive to solvent-based bottom paints... don't know what category yours falls into.
ClamBeach, I will certainly check into the transducer friendly bottom paint and will probably try to get the stuff I put on there off. I sure would hate it to eat the rubber and have the whole thing give. I actually swim under my boat periodically to check on things and can keep it pretty clean.
Dave & Sharon great job. I'd love to get my bottom looking that good. Other than a ton of elbow grease, what products did you use. Also do you sail fresh or salt water? Thanks and have a good summer.
Great job Dave, Hope this isn't a dumb question, Did you use the winch to pull the boat forward when you were finished with the project? A trailer with rollers is new to me. Just wondering how easy they roll on/off the trailer. Thanks.
I just got back from putting our boat in the water today! It was chilly, but it didn't rain.
RL, I sanded the hull and keel. I used Rust Lock on the keel - 2 coats. I then did the anti-fouling over that. The paint I used is the Interlux Micron Extra. It was terribly expensive and I used 1 gallon and almost half of a quart. There are 2 heavy coats on the whole thing. I also got a Transducer Bottom paint. I took the bottom paint I put on the transducer (as is seen in the first picture set) off and did this special transducer paint.
KmOe, I did indeed use just the winch on the trailer to pull it back forward! I really struggled with how I would pull it back in place as I just didn't think it would do it, but I was completely wrong. It did it with no problem. I did spray lubricant on all the roller bearings, though.
I ran into a problem when I applied too heavy a coat on my transducer using the same Micron paint. The paint didn't damage the transducer but I couldn't get a decent depth reading. Recently I've been using the West Marine multi season ablative and have gotten very good resistance to fouling, about the same I got with the Micron at a much lower cost, and I'm careful to apply only a thin coat to the transducer.
You're bottom looks terrific by the way, great job.
Dave, Glad to hear your new paint is wet. I was looking at your pictures again, after you pulled the trailer out a little, I see the fender is almost touching the rear tire, Did you leave the trailer tongue attached to the vehicle? It looks like the boat is back heavy now. I am painting the bottom on mine also and thinking about your method. I can't get a vehicle behind the the boat easily, so I am thinking of attaching the ropes to my 18 year old daughter and setting her cell phone 12 inches in front of her. However she is blonde and may confuse it with the house phone. Better keep thinking on this one. Happy Sailing and Thanks for the pictuers! Jim
Rolling the boat back on the trailer is easy and quick. If your trailer has an adjustable keel support, lower it, so that the weight of the boat is resting on the rollers, and not on the keel support. With the trailer resting on level ground, loosen your winch cable about 10-12". Also loosen your safety chain by the same amount, but make sure the safety chain is securely attached. Put the tow vehicle in forward gear and step on the gas. The boat will roll back. (Alternatively, you can put it in reverse and get it moving backwards, and then apply the brakes firmly. Either way, the boat will roll back on the trailer.) Loosen the winch cable and safety chain more and repeat the process until the boat has moved back far enough to enable you to work on the area under the rollers. <u>Do not</u> disconnect the trailer from the tow vehicle while the boat is rolled back. When the painting is done and dried thoroughly, just winch the boat forward. Don't forget to adjust the keel support under the keel again. Using this method, you can roll the boat back in 5 minutes, without any complicated rigging or devices.
KmOe, Interestingly, although not surprisingly, the tongue had virtually no weight on it while the boat was back on the trailer. It had to sit like that from Sunday to Friday when I winched it back on. I did work on the interior while it was that way, but I was careful where I stood as I didn't want it to tip all the way back. When the boat was pulled back up the wheels are no where near the fenders. It does look funny, though.
I loved the creative use of your 18 year old daughter - and it would probably do it! Good luck!
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.