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The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Well we are all approaching another spring on this list and my co-owner and I sat down with the requisite materials to create our project list. With a cute barmaid, a good mead notebook and a nice bic pen we came up with the list below. (usually we have a boat us or westmarine catalog and a budget, but threw those out because never once have we stuck to the budget)I usually like to start a thread like this every year to give myself and everyone else 1. motivation because you actually put it on paper. 2. find ideas for other projects that need to be done. 3. find people to doing the same project to <s>commiserate with</s> err...bounce ideas off of. So if you are so inclined throw your list up and lets see what sticks. <ol type=1><ol type=1><ol type=1> 1. Lead all lines aft to the cockpit 2. Drill Limber holes to connect bilge areas 3. Install mast gate plates. 4. replace vent on head holding tank. 5. redo all teak with Cetol 6. Install knotmeter (actually reinstall through hull thingy) 7. Insulate Cooler 8. Replace Lifelines. 9. Rebed (for the 3rd time) the damn windows. </ol id=1></ol id=1></ol id=1> DW
After starting some of my own "projects" that I wished somebody would have talked me out of, I admit I can't find much to agree with in your list. Items 9 and 8 don't sound too bad but...
7. Not a good place for food even insulated. 6. GPS is much better and old boats don't need more holes. 5. That unnatural color doesn't look good on any boat I've ever seen. 4. I can't picture this problem. 3. Better to cut the sail to fit the mast - not the other way around. Add a pendant (or "jack-line") to the bottom slug. 2. So little bilge area anyway, why connect it? 1. Not always an advantage and in some cases a definite disadvantage.
How have you bedded your windows before? Obviously it hasn't been very successful...I'd like to learn from your mistakes. I intend to replace my windows w/ new plastic.
Opinions noted: And I know exactly what you mean when you talk of "talking someone out of projects"
however...I kind of rushed through the list so maybe I used a wrong terms to mislead you..here are my responses
7. regarding the fridge...who said food...beer man beer. plus this project will only take about 20 minutes. 6. Knotmeter...hole is already there, need to replace the impeller. 5. teak...Opinion noted, however I have seen it look rather natural. We may use another product...but not positive yet. 4. vent...there is a vent hose coming off the holding tank for the head that leads up to the deck. If you don't have an installed head and tank, you probably won't have the vent on the deck next to the chain plates. Anyway, if it it gets clogged best case scenario is the cabin smells, worst case scenario is that as you pump the head, the pressure causes the hose to break off the vent and well, it drops below the level of liquid juice in the tank and then well...think about it. 3. Mast gate plates...look at these Tech tips...This is what I intend to do, you may have gotten the wrong impression above. the sail already fits, its brand new. http://c25c250.best.vwh.net/restricted/mastslot.gif or http://c25c250.best.vwh.net/restricted/nymslot.html
2. I want to connect it because I have a lot of leaky deck fittings, As we all know Butler and his boys were undergoing the great caulk shortage back in the late 70's and early 80's. Ergo, the boat leaks. I am in process of rebedding all the stuff on the deck, but that takes a lot of time. In the meantime, I want all the rainwater to be able to be pumped out, not that there are hundreds of gallons, but if I am not at the boat for a weak, then its all in one location. I am going to do something similar to this http://trailersailor.com/webbbs/catalina25/archive/index.cgi?read=12202
1. I would be interested to know what the disadvantages of this would be? dw
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> How have you bedded your windows before? Obviously it hasn't been very successful...I'd like to learn from your mistakes. I intend to replace my windows w/ new plastic. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Time 1 started raining 5 minutes after the project finished and the stuff wasn't set up yet.
Ah, the never ending project list. Mine looks like this <i>(so far)</i>. <ol type=1> <li><s>Finish adding the storage space behind the seat cushion backs on both sides.</s> Done</li> <li>Elevate the side rails above the seats, make a shelf and add sliding plastic panels below the shelf for closeable storage cabinets. <i>Can't have too much storage.</i></li> <li>Insulate the cooler.</li> <li>Put the topping lift back on. But run it to the top of the mast and down inside and back to the cockpit like my halyards.</li> <li>Replace the stem fitting with the upgrade with long chain plate. This one looks like it will take some thought. <i>I don't really want to cut the rub rail or aluminum extrusion.</i></li> <li>Refinish the teak. Haven't decided on what product, but I really don't like that orange look I've seen around the marina.</li> <li>Remove oxidation on the deck and topsides.</li> <li>Add the name to the sides. Vinyl lettering/graphics.</li> <li>Bottom paint.</li> <li>Remove the teak rims around the cockpit storage pockets and replace with low maintenance plastic.</li> <li>Add the new "Catalina 25" logos to the cockpit sides.</li> <li><s>Put a winch on the cabin top.</s> Done</li> <li><s>Put a triple rope clutch on the cabin top to accommodate the single line reefing led back to the cockpit.</s> Done</li> <li><s>And a cam cleat for the spinnaker tack line and a clam cleat for the main topping lift.</s> Done</li> </ol id=1>
Wow, first time I've seen it all in front of me at the same time. Now I'll have to divide it into what has to be done before splash time and what can be done at the slip. But if I can get this done this year, the boat will be perfect and I won't have any more projects to do in the following years<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>. <i>Yeah, right!</i>
My list has much in common with the above... My mast is down this year, so my priorities are based around that.
1. Add base plate under the tabernacle for swivel blocks to turn lines to deck organizers.
2. Add deck organizers and rope clutches for lines led aft.
3. Rewire anchor and steaming lights on mast--also VHF antenna.
4. Attach flag halyard blocks to spreaders.
5. Replace masthead sheaves to accommodate new all-rope halyards.
6. Install new heavy-duty Fulton outboard bracket for new Honda.
7. Install cable from battery to a new terminal for connecting the new alternator cable.
8. Make mast gate plates (to keep slugs in the track when the main is dropped).
9. Pay for new Honda 8 XLS Power Thrust electric start <img src=icon_smile_shock.gif border=0 align=middle>
10. Sand loose/rough spots and add a coat of ablative antifouling paint. I want to strip her down and start with a barrier coat, but that'll have to wait a year.
11. PolyGlo the hull.
12. Change our home port on the transom from where we bought her last year to where she is now. (Any ceremony needed for that?)
13. Modify stern rail to make boarding easier at the transom. (Our slip doesn't have finger docks.)
14. Add a couple of coats of spar varnish on the tiller.
The other brightwork will wait till she's in the slip--at that point, I'll continue with Cetol--standard with a top coat of gloss. I like the look on new Sabres and Island Packets, and I like it on Passage. BTY, look at most really classy sailing yachts, and you'll see that gray teak is common for decking, but the "brightwork" is exactly that--bright. 12 coats of spar varnish is great, but Cetol gives me, IMHO, 90% of that look with 2% of the work--no exageration. <img src=icon_smile_approve.gif border=0 align=middle>
I may try a coat or two of PolyGlow topsides to seal and shine, but not enough to make things slippery. That'll be later, in the slip. My main objective there is to make it easier to spray off the sea rat droppings. <img src=icon_smile_angry.gif border=0 align=middle>
Let the fun begin!
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
This year is going to be different but I got another project before I start on the boat. :) 1- Building permit, land disturbance permit and zoning permit. 2- Excavation before leaves come out, driveway and pilings. 3- Footers, foundation, decking on dock. 4- Look at boat. 5- Framing, roofing, rough plumbing and electrical. 6- Look at boat. 7- Backfill, brick, concrete. 8- Look at boat. 9- Insulation, drywall, trim out. 10- Look at boat.(leaves are changing colors) 11- Final details, move in. 12- Look at boat. 13- Winterize I/O on other boat. 14- Never mind, I never got a chance to put it in the water. 15- Hang pictures, organize closets and cabinets, misc. things. 16- Look at boat. Leaves have fell, so has snow. Santa's coming. 17- Oh well, I'll make a springtime 2003 list to do. I'll try again. :(
Tim Witt Smith Mountain Lake, VA 1990 C25 Tall/Wing #5978 & Wellcraft 19 w/4.3 V6
Back in 1980 when I built my house (dang near every nail), while dodging the ash falls from Mt. St. Helens nearby, I woke early and beat my butt off. BUTT, one or two days a week I'd knock off around 3 or 4, run down to the marina and sail 'til after dark. The only way to keep my sanity.....Think about it! Good luck. I found building a house to be a lot of work, but easier than I had feared; at least the inspectors were decent to a guy building for himself in those days.
I have done a number of these things. I put my comments after each. <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote><i> 1. Add base plate under the tabernacle for swivel blocks to turn lines to deck organizers. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote></i> If you are buying your plate from Catalina Direct you will need to drill holes. I would suggest drilling them at the boat so the measurements are fresh in your mind. I can't recall, but I think I had to drill 4 new holes in the plate. <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote><i> 4. Attach flag halyard blocks to spreaders. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote></i> We got a really cheap 2.00 block from WestMarine and attached it to the outside of the spreader with a cable tie.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote><i> 6. Install new heavy-duty Fulton outboard bracket for new Honda. <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote></i> Make sure your waterline on the boat is a true waterline so that when you measure the cavitation plat to the mounting to find out the proper height you aren't too high up. The jacka$$ who owned our boat put bottom paint too high up and we didn't even think about the height.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote><i> 8. Make mast gate plates (to keep slugs in the track when the main is dropped). <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote></i> Someone on this sight recommended this guy and for about 30 bucks he will send you a set already made that require little work for installation. JoeMartinek@StarBand.net <BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote><i> 13. Modify stern rail to make boarding easier at the transom. (Our slip doesn't have finger docks.) <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote></i> Probably an expensive suggestion, but Catalina Direct makes a split stern pulpit for the 22. Maybe they have one for the 25, you might want to call and ask?
A couple here mention insulating the cooler...How do you propose to do that? I had considered using expandable foam somehow but hadn't yet put much thought into it.
Also, how do you saw your holes for storage behind the seat cover cushions? Is it wide open behind each side? What about plumbing for the water tank?
Thanks, Duane... The cable tie for the flag halyard block is a good idea--I was relucant to drill holes that might weaken the spreaders. As for the bracket height, my DPO bought the wrong Honda shaft length (22") and put on a Garelick SS bracket that isn't strong enough for it. My new bracket, made from heavy aluminum U extrusions, will drop down a little further, and the new engine has 5.5" more shaft length. I'm determined to keep that prop down! Also, I'd heard (here) about having to redrill the base plate--I suspect that'll burn up a couple of bits... <img src=icon_smile_dissapprove.gif border=0 align=middle>
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT
Ah! The advantages of living in Central Texas... Here's my list:- 1. Go racing 2. Go sailing 3. Make sure there's enough beer on board. (I did all the crappy stuff over the winter <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>) Derek on "This Side Up"
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Thanks, Duane... The cable tie for the flag halyard block is a good idea--I was relucant to drill holes that might weaken the spreaders. As for the bracket height, my DPO bought the wrong Honda shaft length (22") and put on a Garelick SS bracket that isn't strong enough for it. My new bracket, made from heavy aluminum U extrusions, will drop down a little further, and the new engine has 5.5" more shaft length. I'm determined to keep that prop down! Also, I'd heard (here) about having to redrill the base plate--I suspect that'll burn up a couple of bits... <img src=icon_smile_dissapprove.gif border=0 align=middle>
Dave Bristle, 1985 C-25 SR-FK #5032 "Passage" in CT <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote> We bought one of those titanium bits and used a bunch of cutting oil to keep it cool....all four holes, one bit..
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> Ah! The advantages of living in Central Texas... Here's my list:- 1. Go racing 2. Go sailing 3. Make sure there's enough beer on board. (I did all the crappy stuff over the winter <img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>) Derek on "This Side Up" <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
Derek, sailing especially racing is serious business and I don't want to tell you how to fix up your boat, that's your perogative. but for god sakes man get your priorities straight. Making sure there is enough beer on board is always the number one priority.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> <li>Refinish the teak. Haven't decided on what product, but I really don't like that orange look I've seen around the marina.</li> <li>Remove oxidation on the deck and topsides.</li> <li>Put a winch on the cabin top. Done</li>
<li>Put a triple rope clutch on the cabin top to accommodate the single line reefing led back to the cockpit. Done</li> <hr height=1 noshade id=quote></BLOCKQUOTE id=quote></font id=quote><font face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" size=2 id=quote>
John, We used the Cetol and it doesn't look as orange as people say...have a few more coats to go, but I don't think it will change. I found that one of the best products for oxidation is the 3M oxidation remover and cleaner and wax...An all in one product. Just don't do too big of an area at one time with it.
Do you have pictures of the rope clutch, the winch and your turning (cheek) blocks leading the lines aft. I have seen the ones here online but would like to get some other views.
<b>Cutting holes for storage.</b> It's pretty wide open behind the seatbacks, except (always an exception) for the wires running to the AC outlets on the shelves above the seatbacks, and the water tank vent tube that runs up the middle of the starboard seatback. If you remove the cover over the water tank you will see the tube and can feel for the wire. Remove the storage covers on the port side and feel for the wire there. I used a jigsaw to cut the holes. I also covered the "footplate" of the saw with masking tape to keep the plate from leaving any marks on the fiberglass. I'll post some photos tomorrow.
<b>Duane</b> I'll try the cetol. I like the low maintenance angle. And if it's not too orange great. I'll post photos of the deck hardware tomorrow also. There won't be any lines running through them 'cause my mast is down, but you'll see the basic set-up.
<BLOCKQUOTE id=quote><font size=1 face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id=quote>quote:<hr height=1 noshade id=quote> <b>Duane</b> I'll try the cetol. I like the low maintenance angle. And if it's not too orange great.
Hey John Mason, Better be careful how much gear you stow on that boat of yours, else you'll have to raise the waterline <img src=icon_smile_wink.gif border=0 align=middle> We have a C-25 at our marina that has so many many goodies on board that it sits low in the water. The boat's name is <u>D'Artagnon</u> which I affectionately hail as Gargantuan
<b>Storage project</b> Yeah, I know, I know. Actually my boat sits a little high in the water at this time. If I really load it up it won't be so tender in the gusts<img src=icon_smile_big.gif border=0 align=middle>.
The storage is to just get the stuff on the shelves above the settees in a place where they'll stay put, instead of shifting to the cabin sole on every tack.
Here's the project so far. Yes you have to install a bottom. I made a template from cardboard and cut the bottoms from 1/4" plywood. I need to line the area with something like naugahyde (the fiberglass is pretty rough) and add the edge trim around the openings.
Please excuse the mess, I'm in the middle of a few projects. The lines run out from the mast base to deck organisers (I like Schaefer), back to rope clutches and the winches. Could probably use Lewmar 6's to save weight, but I took the 7 off the mast and then found another for a good price, so that's what I have.
So I'll have jib halyard, main halyard, and main reefing line on the port. I know it's not standard tradition (I'll be a future DPO)<img src=icon_smile_blush.gif border=0 align=middle>. And spinnaker halyard, main topping lift, and spinnaker tack line on starboard.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.