Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
I have my 95 250WB at the yard having the bottom painted. I am taking this opportunity to do maintainence on the centerboard. It always has taken a great deal of effort to raise it, I am not sure if this is normal or not. Everything looks OK although the line connecting to the board looks a little tired. My manual has a drawing rev 3 for the pulley arrangement which calls for a 3/16" Vectron line. Is this the latest thinking? The other discussion I have read I guess concerns the turning pulley in the centerboard trunk. I did not have a flashligth to get a good look at this but I think bolts can pull out and if this happens they need to be drilled out to the next size and replaced. Is that the answer? What about side to side motion, how much is acceptable? Any comments on the above would be appreciated.
The ease of operation of the centerboard is affected by the sum todal of drag in the entire system, thus necessitating attention at every point.
Known problem areas have been the mid trunk block, the turning ball, and the block and tackle. Ensure that each is working nominally.
The center board itself should have a minimal amount of side play which can be reduced by shims on each side of the mounting shaft. These can be purchased from Catalina or made from some thin plastic stock by using a couple of hole saws. Unless you have the hole saws on hand, it would be far cheaper to get the shims from Catalina.
Care should be exercised to avoid grounding the boat on the raised board... doing so will push the board up into the trunk, pinching and slicing the cable and possible doing damage to the center trunk sheave or its mount.
The angle of the line into the block and tackle is not fair, and will introduce twist knots into the block and tackle and foul it. Use twist shackles to rotate the block and tackle for the most fair entry.
If the turning ball has a flat spot in the groove, it means that it is not turning in use and that the line is simply cutting a groove and of course suffering a lot of drag. There have been a few reports that the line was actually outside the turning ball.
Arlyn - thanks for the tips especially on the turning ball. This seems to turn relatively freely but the groove had one shiny segment which I guess means it was not turning properly. Is there any point in lubricating this, WD40? I could not figure out how this was held in. Can it be removed and replaced?
I just went through the same routine. I replaced the nylon washers at the centerboard pin. The old washers were worn to a sliver. I replaced them with 2" x1/8 thick nylon washers purchased at a local hardware store. It really took the play out of the centerboard. I also put 2, 2 inch wide 1/2 inch thick tapered plastic shims in the trunk,just behind the turning block. It holds the centerboard snug when it sits in the slip. no more slapping! I also looked at the turning ball and notice it was grooved but I also could not see a way to replace it. Has anyone tried this? Jack Schafer, 2nd Wind #106
FYI, after having had first the stainless steel cable sever and then losing two sythetnic replacements, I finally noticed that the edge of the hard tube around which the flexible collar fits inside the boat was quite sharp, and that the alignment of the pulleys dragged the line across that sharp edge. Filing the edge smooth with a round file solved the problem. Note that you cannot see if your lines may abraid against this edge unless, with the lines in place and at least snug, you loosen and slide the flexible collar up the cable. At least on my boat the pull across the hard tube edge was quite noticeable. I can't help wonder if the friction may also contribute to the effort neeeded to raise the board. Cataline 250 WB hull #200
I also put 2, 2 inch wide 1/2 inch thick tapered plastic shims in the trunk,just behind the turning block. It holds the centerboard snug when it sits in the slip. no more slapping!
Jack how did you fasten the shims to the inside of the trunk to prevent the slapping?
Zeil, I used 3m5200 to attach the shims. It seems to really help when in the slip. I tapered the ends of the shims so the board would not bind. they are about 6 inches long. there is still some play in the board but onlly about an inch total. Jack 2nd wind #106
[quote]<i>Originally posted by Oscar</i> <br />zeil....as in "zeilen op de grote zee?"
Dat klopt... als in zeilen op the grote plassen... het is plezierig te weten dat er meer hollanders mee doen aan deze gezellige and zeer interessante manier van communiceren en vooral over het onderwerp die ons bizonder aanspreekt.
We hebben net vorig jaar een 1995 hull #151 Catalina 250 gekocht en zijn er dolblij mee. groeten Henk...
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by Jack Schafer</i> <br />Zeil, I used 3m5200 to attach the shims. It seems to really help when in the slip. I tapered the ends of the shims so the board would not bind. they are about 6 inches long. there is still some play in the board but onlly about an inch total. Jack 2nd wind #106 <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Jack; Thank you for the information... I'll follow your example and glue the shims to my '95 250 #151 "Someday Lady". We were out for 5 days last week on Harrison Lake in British Columbia, and had a wonderful time in spite of the frequent clonking of the board. It'll be so much better with that annoyance gone
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.