Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
In the past I've read about some using an anchor float to see if they are dragging. I thought this interesting but also useful to see where anchor is located not only for me but potential Yahooos who motor too close. I anchor with a Fortress. How does one set up such an arrangement. I guess you'd also have to take into consideration the tide changes for length of float line, and where on the anchor do you attach the line? What type of float would you attach and lastly is there any potential negative side effects to doing this? Thanks!
Usually the float is tied to a light line that is fastened to the crown of the anchor. With lightweight types tie it to the stock on either side of the crown. The line needs to be only a little longer than the water depth at high water; I use an empty, plastic gallon jug (ex-windshield washer/de-icer)with a screw cap as a float. This is useful in areas where your anchor can become fouled. You can use the float (trip) line to pull your anchor out.
Suzie, I use one whenever anchored in a place where I'm concerned about draging or having a problem getting the anchor loose. My float has a 30 ft line, but messing with it at the time of setting the anchor is messy and will usually encounter a fouled or knotted line. I've found that a stalk of foam about three inches round or square about 8-10 inches longs works great. I use a heated piece of wire to make a hole through the foam and run the line through the foam lengthwise and stopper knot it.
Wind the line onto the foam block and install a snap hook on the end of the line. When ready to set the anchor snap it onto the retreive hole of the anchor and set the anchor over and let the line unroll off the foam block as it goes down.
If I'm in shallow water, I dinghy over to the float and knot a loop to shorten the line.
If you don't normally have a dingy, the line length can be set prior to setting over the side by reading the depth sounder. I just find it messy to try to deal with setting the length prior to setting the anchor but do it on occassion.
Another option to having to manually adjust the float line is to use a line a bit longer than your average anchoring depth, including tidal changes, and attach a small block to your float and run the trip line through the block and fasten a small weight to the end of the trip line. (I use a small dive weight with a clip.) Now you can anchor in different areas and accommodate tidal changes without having to manually adjust your trip line and it will stay directly over your anchor.
I don't use it frequently but in areas that are crowded or I am concerned about fouling the anchor I use it and it works great.
I like the float. You can tell where your anchor is and tell if you are dragging. If you are dragging, the float is pulled under. The line has to be just longer than the water depth.
It's weird to wake up in the morning and find the bouy just off your stern. Due to current and light winds, your boat can wander all over the place, lying just to the chain.
Just before you drop the anchor, get a reading from the depth meter. Quickly shorten your bouy line to that length + 5 feet. Tie it off to the shank of your Fortress.
OK, so I'm old and slow... I understand the concept of a trip-line on the anchor, but how does the float tell you you're dragging? Note: The tide cycle around here is normally between 6.5 and 9 feet, so scope must be planned accordingly, and a float would too. The tide currents almost always move you 180 to 360 degrees around your anchor overnight. ("Where am I??")
If you're gonna leave some slack in your bouyed trip line (for tide, etc.), I suggest a small weight on the line 3' or so below the float. This will hold the line straight down to a depth below most props. If you mean to use this as a trip line, it needs to be strong enough, and attached to the trip point of the anchor (usually not the shank ). And don't forget that a kellet will similarly hold the main rode down below props, etc, including yours.
We don't use it to see if we're dragging so much as to mark the anchor spot (very handy to keep those waterskiers from coming to close) & as a trip line.
I use a 1 qt white plastic bottle with a molded in handle. I also wrote the boat name in big letters on it several times to hopefully let people associate the bottle with the boat (fat chance). I rig it sort of like Clif does, except I simply run the line through the handle on the bottle and then tie 4 large fishing weights to the bitter end. Galveston Bay is not very deep, so I only rig it with about 18 ft of line since I usually am only anchored in around 10ft or so.....
It sure has helped when the anchorages get "full" to keep other boats from anchoring on top of my hook.....
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.