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The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
Now that the season is coming on I'm thinking of all kinds of questions for the magical internet.
I've got a swim ladder, probably not the right one but some West Marine cheapy. The real question here is where do you put the thing? It seems like the pushpit is too tight to really board the boat back there. Is there a better way to get in the boat after a swim?
It seems like Catalina would have made provision for that.
When I purchased my boat last year the PO had ladder mounts on the port side deck so the lifline could be taken down and the boat easily boarded. Of course he couldn't find the ladder so I had to purchase one from WM. I believe it was $130 for 4 step folding. The mounts didn't match up but I installed new ones and now the ladder is removed while in the slip or sailing and installed while anchored/swimming. It has curved upper arms that make it easier to board and are convenient for hanging on the aft dinette for storage. Sid
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote">It's not really that hard to board after a swim because you kind of just climb up and over the stern pulpit.<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
I agree. Using the backstay (single on my boat) as a handhold, along with the stern pulpit itself, helps make it easier for me.
I've heard that ladders with rungs which extend further under the water make it easier to get aboard from swimming. The lowest rung on my ladder goes about 1' under -- I think more would be better (but more $).
I recently added wood "ribs" to the rungs on my ladder. I used 1" x 2" oak stock, which I planed down to 1/2" x 2". The hardest part was drilling holes through the stainless steel rungs. Cutting and rounding the edges of the wood was pretty easy. So was slapping on a few coats of Cetol (no gloss topcoat was used so as to maintain some traction from the natural wood grain). Used countersunk machine screws with locknuts underneath as fasteners. This project was pretty cheap, but it makes the ladder much better by increasing the width of each rung from the original, barefeet-hurting and unstable 1/2" to the now comfortable and stable 2". The ladder looks a bit fancier, too.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.