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Catalina/Capri 25/250 Sailor's Forums

Catalina 25 Specific Forum

Keel pin & bushing replacement

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La Dolce Vita
1st Mate

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USA
86 Posts

Initially Posted - 05/09/2004 : 11:21:49

I was hoping that someone might be able to post a picture of the threaded rod method again.(I never have any luck doing a topic search)

I just finished building a wood support frame for the keel and will attempt the "rod method" to lower the keel.I am basically doing the job by myself and I am a little nervous about it.When I did the job on my previous C22 the floor jack skipped out & the keel ended up swinging backward & sideways on the ground.It was quite a job getting it back in.The C25 keel is alot heavier and I want to make sure the same thing doesn't happen.

Thanks for all your help and any words of wisdom would be greatly appreciated!

Ed "La Dolce Vita"

Edited by - on

Buzz Maring
Master Marine Consultant

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USA
1771 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2004 : 11:27:33

Hi Ed,

Here is the photo you asked for:

Please keep us updated on your progress. The keel pin on my boat is OK, but I'm sure it is just a matter of time before I'll have to do the same thing you are about to undertake.

Good luck!

Edited by - on

La Dolce Vita
1st Mate

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USA
86 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2004 : 12:07:40

Thanks Buzz! I have a few more questions.

- Do the bronze bushings always need to be machined down in size?

- Is the keel lead or steel?(lead wouldn't rust but I thought I read
some C25's came with a lead keel)

-Can I replace the pin & bushing with the top part of the keel still
in the trunk?

Thanks again! I am sure I will be back with more questions as I go along.

Edited by - on

Steve Kostanich
1st Mate

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88 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2004 : 14:42:28

LDV
I am reasonably sure the bronze brackets will always need machining to allow the keel to fit in between them.

The swing keel is cast iron, and quite prone to rusting. Multi coats of epoxy barrier coat after a good scraping, grinding etc. are highly recommened.

The brackets and pin can be replaced with the head of the keel partially in the trunk, but the keel MUST be supported and under control to keep it from tipping, flopping or any other "bad thing".

I found that lowering the keel by the threaded rod method could be speeded up by using a hydraulic jack to do the bulk of the work, and the rods to keep things under control. Jack the keel up slightly to support it, then drop the nuts down on the rods and then lower the keel down on to them, crank the keel cable down about the same amount. Repeat this until the keel is down to where you want it.

Hope this helps.

Steve Kostanich C-25 1119 Equinox sr/sk

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2004 : 14:58:38

Blocks of wood C-Clamped to the trailer frame can help stabilize the keel as you lower it. Putting a block of wood, carpet, conveyer belting etc. between the jack and the keel helps keep it from slipping too.

Edited by - on

La Dolce Vita
1st Mate

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USA
86 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2004 : 15:52:10

Thanks Steve & Clambeach.

The boat is dry docked with jack stands. I won't be able to use the keel winch to lower the aft end of keel.I have the companionway stairs in my basement for refinishing & a new keel winch on order from CD.Would you suggest I wait until I install the new winch before I start this job? I feel somewhat under pressure to get this job done because I still have a load of stuff to do before launching on 5/24. You know the saying, if something can go wrong .....

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2004 : 16:19:40

What's holding the aft end of the keel up right now? A Jackstand?

Edited by - on

La Dolce Vita
1st Mate

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USA
86 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2004 : 16:24:21

The aft end of the keel is resting on the ground with a few blocks of wood underneath.

Edited by - on

Steve Kostanich
1st Mate

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88 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2004 : 20:09:21

Ed,
Is the boat up high enough that the keel is near the full down position? If so that may present some problems. The keel has to be dropped far enough to make a test fit of the bronze brackets into the bottom of the boat to measure the space between them before machining, and measure the thickness of the keel at the pin hole to determine how much needs to be removed from each bracket plus about 1/32" to 1/16" (should be about 1/32" on each side) more to allow clearance for the keel. I've always done it with the boat on a trailer, so I'm not sure what to tell you to expect with your set up. Maybe some else can jump in who'se done it like you are about to, and offer some advice.
Steve Kostanich C-25 1119 Equinox sr/sk

Edited by - on

ClamBeach
Master Marine Consultant

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3072 Posts

Response Posted - 05/09/2004 : 22:33:01

If the keel is at some fairly steep angle (lowered) the front end will really try to move forward as it is lowered (or the aft end will have to slide back).

I think your notion of having the cable back on is a good one in this particular case... or rig some sort of jacking arrangement under the aft end to get the keel more towards horizontal before lowering the front end. You'll probably have to rig some cribbing or a supporting framework to do this safely.

Either way, be very careful, 1,500 lbs of iron is heavy enough to cause serious injury or death if it gets away from you.

Edited by - on

La Dolce Vita
1st Mate

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USA
86 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2004 : 07:57:49

The aft end of the keel is really not lowered all that much.It is approx. 32" measuring from the ground up to the bottom of the hull.

Today I'm going to get some coupling nuts & washers for the rods and give a good look at the support frame.If all looks good then I will start moving foward to accomplish this task.

Edited by - on

La Dolce Vita
1st Mate

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USA
86 Posts

Response Posted - 05/10/2004 : 17:11:41

My new winch & wire will be here by Thursday. I will take your advice and wait to drop the keel until I get those hooked up.

Edited by - on

La Dolce Vita
1st Mate

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USA
86 Posts

Response Posted - 05/16/2004 : 13:49:26

I just want to say that using the threaded rod method to lower the keel worked like a charm!

I would never again attempt to do it any other way!

I was expecting to find the worst when I removed the keel pin & bushings but to my amazement the hole is still round & the pin has no wear on it at all.I wire brushed all rust spots from the keel,primed & painted it. Today I will put it all back together.

Thanks again for all your help.
Ed

Edited by - on

tzk53s
1st Mate

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USA
33 Posts

Response Posted - 05/19/2004 : 13:24:01

I completed the job on my 1978 #711 about two weeks ago. The threaded rod works great but as you may have noticed already the keel tends to "walk rearwards" while lowering. I used a chain tackle attached to the trailere to counteract this migration. Worked great. Also used two large carpenters clamps attached to the trailer to hold the keel perfectly upright. It goes back in easier then coming down. The whole keel was supported by a large adjustable floor jack. VERY carefull measurements of the keel thickness at the hole and the distance between the hull mounting holes will resulet in a good fit. I was able to achieve .032 total clearance which works great!
The most difficult part for me was grinding enough old rust off the old keel. I could never get the whole thing down to shiny metal anywhere and the final result looks like moonscape. This is a fresh water boat so I will evaluate the effects this fall. I may end up encapsulating the keel in fiberglass with a bronze foot as I have read in these threads to fair out the surface. I will have to see how well she races according to her PHRF rating (230).

Edited by - on

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