Notice:
The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ.
The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.
After spending a weekend out in the NC Sun, we have decided to put a bimini on our C-25 SK. What are the pros and cons for Aluminum vs Stainless Steel? Where is a good place to buy one? Any advice would be appreciated. You were a great help on the electrical question. I have decided to go with 6 gauge marine wire.
Mine is a vinyl, not sunbrella, bimini that I bought from BoatUS for $139.00. It was originally $180, but it was a discontinued, off-the-shelf model, that was reduced to sell. The dimensions, I believe were 6 feet long by 82 inches wide and I mounted it to a pair of old track slides using external eye mounts($6.00) that I purchased separately. Since it was an off the rack bimini, I had to alter the height by about 10 inches, but that was done simply with my pipe cutter I use for copper plumbing work. With the bimini mounted to track slides, it can be moved both forward and astern. In the picture, I have it mounted so it's just forward enough not to interfere with the mainsheet. When not using the bimini, I fold it up, put the boot cover on it, and slide it all the way back so it is standing straight up against the backstay where it is bungied. The height of the folded bimini is over six feet so it is very much out of the way. If I just want to get the bimini out of the way temporarily, I simply lift the boom a foot and release the aft hold down straps. The bimini will then fold neatly onto the cabintop.
It wasn't that difficult of a job, relatively inexpensive($145.00), and the cooling shade it provides on those hot, sunny days is wonderful.
Don, It sounds like you got a great deal on your bimini and it looks great. Before I ask my question I think I'll qualify it. I also have a bimini in the sunbrella blue stuff. In addition, I have a tall rig and thus the boom is lower than it appears in your picture. So, being familiar with them, here comes the question.
When you were installing it, did you consider moving it further aft in the cockpit? In your picture you're at the helm and sitting in the sun. Just curious...
I have to thank the previous owner for mine so I can't take any credit or blame. Mine has a re-inforced slit that the backstay runs through so it sits further aft.
I also have a dodger that only clears the boom by an inch or two. (Sometimes I wish I had a standard rig) Between the dodger and bimini, I've pretty much got the cockpit covered.
I have some sailing buddies who are considering installing a bimini and was curious about your stratedgy/theory/thoughts on it's location.
We are also looking into a bimini. Sacramento summers can be HOT! I like the picture of the bimini above and the idea of being able to move it on the outer rail. That way when anchored everyone can enjoy the shade. Have been searching online for the best deals. One deal that keeps coming up is West Marine and their economy bimini. It's 42" high 6'long and has several adjustments in width, hopefully to accomodate the rail idea. Starting price is $169. Just don't want to drill any more holes that necessary into the boat. If anyone has any other ideas of places to look for an inexpensive bimini, ideas appreciated. Also pictures are great for ideas too. Ebay has some too, but....shipping seems to be problematic!!!
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by IndyJim</i> <br />...When you were installing it, did you consider moving it further aft in the cockpit? In your picture you're at the helm and sitting in the sun. Just curious...
And I gotta tell you, North Star looks great! <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Thanks Jim!
I can't move the bimini any further aft under sail because the transom mounted mainsheet just clears the bimini. However with the bimini mounted on track cars, in port I can remove the mainsheet and slide the bimini aft another foot or two. Additionally, I can stow the bimini behind the mainsheet up against the backstay and it is high enough that I can walk underneath it.
Usually when sailing, I'm forward in the cockpit under the shade. The reason I'm sitting on the transom is because I was taking pictures of my friend in his Hunter 28 (I'm holding a camera) while he took this picture of me.
Here's another pic showing how you can raise the boom a little, release the forward straps, and angle the bimini to ward off the setting sun.
Dick, you may want to price Biminis at Overton Marine, I purchased mine there several years ago so I'm not sure of the prices now. I also have tall rig but find the confinement in cockpit versus the shade provided is worth it. Not really that hard plus the lower it is in the cockpit the more protecion you have from Rain, sun etc. I do sail with it and at anchor pull boom to side and secure. Good luck
Don, Would you clear up you have placed the track? I have a Bimini curtesy of the PO, it has stainless frame and is fixed mounted on the deck between the toe rail and the cockpit comb, foward of the winch. It is always in the way, but still indespensible. I've seen the diagram of mounting on car on the genoa track. Mine are outside the lifelines. Are yours that way also? Or do I need to find a way to bend the frame to fit outside too? I have an '85 SR/SK. I'm not sure what you mean by 'Outside eye mount'. Is your frame aluminum? I've been stewing over this bimini arrangement for a while now, this has got to be the year to fix it.
I've seen the diagram of mounting on car on the genoa track. Mine are outside the lifelines. Are yours that way also? Or do I need to find a way to bend the frame to fit outside too? I have an '85 SR/SK. I'm not sure what you mean by 'Outside eye mount'. Is your frame aluminum?<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Bill,
With my aluminum framed bimini mounted on the genoa track, I have to lead my lifelines through the bimini legs because the lifelines narrow as they go aft. This means that when I drop the bimini I have to unhook the lifelines and pull them from between the bimini legs.
I'm not sure what I meant when I said outside eye mount, but I used jaw slides mounted on a pair of old twin sheet genoa cars. These cars were unique in that I could remove a pin (like a clevis) and remove the sheave part from the car and then simply insert the bimini jaw slides. These jaw slides receive the internal eye ends of the bimini legs.
Don, Thank you for the description ... I think that makes the details clear. All I need is a couple of cars ... a couple of jaw mounts ... and I'll be in business. Thanks agian ... I'll post the results when it is finished.
We just purchased our bimini this weekend. We are also wanting to put in onto the track. Our problem when removing the cars, the loops are welded on. Any ideas??? Looked at West marine, new cars are like $20-30. We are not using these cars I don't know how difficult to break the weld considering it is stainless. Anything else that can be used on the track that can adjust to the bimini hardware?
<blockquote id="quote"><font size="1" face="Verdana, Arial, Helvetica" id="quote">quote:<hr height="1" noshade id="quote"><i>Originally posted by dbehling</i> <br />We just purchased our bimini this weekend. We are also wanting to put in onto the track. Our problem when removing the cars, the loops are welded on. Any ideas??? Looked at West marine, new cars are like $20-30. We are not using these cars I don't know how difficult to break the weld considering it is stainless. Anything else that can be used on the track that can adjust to the bimini hardware? <hr height="1" noshade id="quote"></blockquote id="quote"></font id="quote">
Debbie,
A Dremel tool with a cutting wheel should take those loops off.
Another option might be to turn the car over and, using a drill bit slightly larger than the loop diameter, start drilling up through the car directly under the loop ends(sometimes you can see the loop welds on the bottom of the car). When you get past the track car, the loop should break free.
Notice: The advice given on this site is based upon individual or quoted experience, yours may differ. The Officers, Staff and members of this site only provide information based upon the concept that anyone utilizing this information does so at their own risk and holds harmless all contributors to this site.